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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, im new to all of this. Ive been wanting to build a racecar and I was just wondering if i could put the (GM Performance Parts 572ci / 620-720hp ''ZZ 572 Deluxe'' Engine) in a 1999-2002 Camaro. Ive been trying to figure out what type of car i could put that in. Any help would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
will it work

So are you saying that I could fit in it? Because this is what i want to do just for right now i want that engine, a new intake, exhaust, and a turbo. Will that all fit with that engine?
 

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I dont know about it fitting, but for the price of that motor, I think you would be able to get one custom made. If you built a similar motor to the pump gas ZZ 572 except with AFR heads and a little larger solid roller cam, I think you would be in the ~750-800 hp range rather than ~600. If this is going to be a race only motor, with high compression, you could probably get 900-950 with the AFR heads.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Like i said before, im like brand new, i dont know how to build these engines. Im looking for a place to put it in for me. So with that said, do you think i should het that engine or a smaller one and add the other stuff? Whats the compression ratio and waht happens when it gets too high?
 

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Compression is how hard the piston squeezes the air and fuel together. The higher the compression ratio the higher the octane the fuel needs to be to run it. High octane fuel burns slower which is needed so the fuel/air mixture doesn't ignite before the spark plug ignites it. If you want to build an engine for a blower ideally you need to start with a lower compression ratio somewhere around 7.5 or 8 to 1. Try searching Google for "boost" and "compression ratio" and use the search function on this site. This forum is full of information you just have to look.
 

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I forgot about the turbo, I agree, the compression is too high for a turbo. Also, I just put together a list of all of the parts that come with that 572 except for with a comp cam and AFR heads. You would still need to get it put assembeled, and get machine work done.

Dart iron eagle block: $2300 with iron main caps ( I assume you can get a 10.2 deck height block for this price also even though they dont list it)
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_755749_-1_54234

Eagle forged rotating assembly. This is a 540, but a 572 should cost about the same: ~$2400
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_752441_-1_316908

Comp Cam & lifters: This is not the cam you would want, but It should give you an idea of the price:$700
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_754889_-1_64242

Heads, assembeled $3282
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_756107_-1_10187

Comp Pro Magnum rockers: $300
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_747065_-1_33024

Push rods are around $150 a set

Victor JR intake: $260
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...ltsPerPage=25&pageIndex=1&searchTerm=350-2907

Carb: I dont know which one they use on the zz4 motor, but I am pretty sure it is not as nice as this one:~700
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_755496_-1_97486

Oil pan, I'll just say $250

Distributor: GMPP HEI $300
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_753469_-1_361088

Damper: ATI super street $170
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_763411_-1_10179

Just to cap off the little stuff, I will throw in an engine gasket set and a cam kit;

Cam kit $70
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_746620_-1_29300

Gasket kit:
Ill just say $300 but I think that is high

This may not be everything that comes on the ZZ572, but it is the overwhelming majority. Also, many of these parts are better than what comes on that motor. In the end, this comes out to $12000. I would think it will not cost $2800 to get the machine work done and get this thing put together. With extra money left over, you could do things like getting the intake gasket matched or getting some billet steel main caps... I would also think that the machine work would be a little more thorough. Any machine guys out there know if I am correct? Is there any huge thing I am over looking? Is my assumption about the machine work and assembly correct?

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Does anyone know where i could get that done? I live in Northern Virginia, in the Herndon-Reston area. Also, i know this is dumb but does anyone know where i could get a real cheap 1999-2002 camaro z28 to put the engine in?
 

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I have talked with the shop below several times and they seem like a really good place to go. They are in tennessee, but you could always get the motor shipped to you, that I what I would recommend. Another thing about having the motor built is that you can pick the cam size and specs, compression, head size... all to match your application exactly.

http://www.revolutionaryperformance.com/

As for finding a car, I would recommend this site.

http://www.racingjunk.com/

I typed in camaro and here are a couple I came up with:
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/836662/2001-chevy-camaro-SS-six-speed-.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/post/835247/99-Z28-LS1-CAMARO-ONLY-60K-FOR-SALE-OR-TRADE.html

http://www.racingjunk.com/post/833558/1998-Z28-CAMARO-A4.html

This would be a real good one for you. It already has a nice rear end and a cage.
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/763309/2000-camaro-z-28-ls1.html

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you for all the help so far. I will check in to those sites, but those cars are too expensive for me. Would it be possible to fit my engine into a regular camaro? like a camaro thats a 6-cyl, because ive seen a couple of 6-cyls that are like $5000.
 

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I know people have done it, but I have no information on how. A couple of things to consider: if you just buy a 6 cyl camaro and put this motor into it, it will break everything behind the motor (tranny/rear end...). Also, it will not hook up at all without some serious suspension. Last thing, if you run faster than a 11.5 (which you would with that motor) you have to have a cage. If you run faster than 10.00, you have to have a certified cage, which gets expensive. In order to get this car anywhere near where it needs to be to handle the power, you are probably looking at another $7000-$10,000 pretty easily on top of the price of the car. It wont do you much good to install this motor if it just breaks everything, does not hook up, but before that runs too fast for you to race it at a track. I dont want to be too negative, but It would not be too much fun to spend $15,000 on a motor and have it sit in a garage because you are out of money.

Adam
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok cool

ok so i need the z28, if i have the z28 then the motor wont break anything right? or are you saying i need a cage either way cuz the engine will break the 6cyl and the z28?
 

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I don't want to discourage you from your dream but you are talking major modifications and fab work to do this. You could do it in a first, second, or third generation camaro (third gen would not be easy either). If you are just starting in hotrodding, you might want to get a mid-80s A body (like a Malibu) and warm up a small block and learn the rodding basics instead of starting with a 572 big block with turbo. You will pay a fortune to have this kiind of work done. You are realistically talking about a full tube chassis to handle the power of a turbo 572. :cool:
 

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For a build like you suggested having a shop do the work it would cost you atleast 20-30 thousand dollars.

Throwing 800 HP infront of a stock transmission, axel, suspension, etc. Its all going to be shredded. Racing vehicles puts a lot of strain on them and you tear them up if they aren't done properly.

I would agree with "cool rockin daddy". Start with the basics before you go out and start spending a ton of money.
 

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Nothing from the stock F body driveline will withstand the abuse of the 572 bigblock,and niether will the chassis.BTW,the 572 is a lowdeck,and is almost as big as you can get before you need a tall deck.On paper both combinations look well thought out.

I am currently working on this project myself.Right now I have a 73 firebird that runs mid 9's with a 439 inch bigblock Chevy,and I am building a 4th gen Camaro to put all my running gear into after next season.I have a spare block,heads,intake and trans to use for the mock up,and here is what I know so far.

The biggest issue is the fact that about half the engine sits under the firewall.If you feel compelled to keep the stock glass windshield,you can remove the plastic coverings over the cowl area and trim back the firewall about 3 inches over the engine,but with a lexan windshield you can notch the base of the windshield and trim the cowl area back further.A fiberglass dash pad seems like a good idea since there seems to be a lot of wasted space above the engine where it goes under the firewall,that could be clear up with a sheet metal doghouse built over the engine to match the notch in the firewall and windshield that is also required.With the cowl area notched and raised,a fiberglass dashpad could be used to cover the area since a glass pad is thinner and the doghouse could be built right up to the bottom of it.Even with all these mods,I have seen some of these swaps done using the carb mounted sideways on the intake so that the rear carb bowl can me accessed for jet changes.The distributor will be a very tight fit,and maybe mounting the glass dashpad with dzus fasteners and putting an access door on the sheet metal doghouse over the engine would be a good idea.I am thinking about the idea of stepping up to a belt drive for the cam,then buying a front mounted distributor that runs off the cam belt.BTW,there are aftermarket cowl hoods out there that can be fotted right upt to the base of the windshield just to cover these types of modifications.

I plan on removing all the original wiring,heater box,and master cylinder.Once the cage is put on the car,I plan on mounting the master cylinder down low in the driver's compartment with a Zbar type linkage to operate it.The car is going to be a stock chassis 10.5" tire car,so the floor pan will be bassically stock.I plan on putting a manual rack in it,and using motor plates,and it looks like headers wont be too bad to fab if I go that route.

Out back I am debating over using the 12 bolt that I currently have,or maybe going to a Dana60.I dont plan on using stock suspention,so I dont need a bolt in rear,but if you wanted to keep it stock then you need one of the specialty rears that are on the market.I plan on using ladder bars and coil overs and seeing if I can mini tub the car a bit so that it will sit down way low on the 10.5" tires.Up front O plan on using stock suspemtion with a fiberglass hood and front and rear bumper covers so that I can remove all the sub bumper crap,and maybe over the radiator foward a bit too.

All combined,it is a lot of work,but the way I look at it,I am spoiled by having raced the last 10 years with a car that has an engine compartment the size of an airplan hangar,so I have high expectations on what I consider to be a "serviceable" engine swap.I dont plan on having a bundle of snakes to wrestle with when I change the spark plugs,and I want to be able to at least to routine valvetrainc heckes without having to hire a stubby fingered assistant.

Oh and one more thing.The factory engineered these cars so that the engine gets installed from the bottom which means that you bolt the engine to the engine cradle,then lower the body of the car down on top of it.It looks to me like that is the best route to go with this swap.

Good luck.
 

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This has pretty much been covered, but with the power you are talking about, you will need aftermarket everything behind the motor as well as a bunch of chassis work.

Adam
 
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