I got my Por15 today. All instructions I've seen say that it works best over rust, but I can't bring myself to do it. Do you guys use the metal prep? I'm sandblasting the parts (some have been blasted and primed,so I'm blasting again)will that be good enough? Will it flow out and look ok in my engine compartment if I brush it on? Is there any way to coat the inside of the cowl? Thanks for any adise.
Got my Por15 today.
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IT works best over light rust.
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yeah I purchased some crap in a spray can that was supposed to cover/convert rust or something...and because I am a fanatic, I stripped all of the rust and paint off of my door, and sprayed this crap on...
At first it looked great...2 days later it wasn't looking so great when it was peeling off. Total waste.
At first it looked great...2 days later it wasn't looking so great when it was peeling off. Total waste.
Gassman: I know where you're coming from. It just doesn't seem right to put paint over rust. I probably over-prepped, sanding off the heavy rust, then metal prepping before using the POR 15, but I really didn't want to have to be crawling around second-guessing myself ... or kicking myself in a year or two.
So far, so good. Besides, Halloween King wouldn't steer us wrong!
So far, so good. Besides, Halloween King wouldn't steer us wrong!
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and it DOES flow out really well when applied with a brush. you'll be surprised. just remember to thoroughly degrease any surface to be painted....
Por 15 is fairley new, as far as time proven.
I`ve used several gal. in the last yr. so far it works as clamed.
I only use it on undercarriage, inerfenders,floor pans, I also spray inside the quarter panels front and rear.and inside doors. Some parts were sandblasted, some were glassbeaded, ground,or wire brushed. Remove scales.
A word of CAUTION use a good respirator filter!!
I have been around and sprayed all kinds of auto paint. (50 yr.) the fumes esp. when spraying will cause severe hyprovinalation. be careful and good luck on your project.
I`ve used several gal. in the last yr. so far it works as clamed.
I only use it on undercarriage, inerfenders,floor pans, I also spray inside the quarter panels front and rear.and inside doors. Some parts were sandblasted, some were glassbeaded, ground,or wire brushed. Remove scales.
A word of CAUTION use a good respirator filter!!
I have been around and sprayed all kinds of auto paint. (50 yr.) the fumes esp. when spraying will cause severe hyprovinalation. be careful and good luck on your project.
Thanks for the input but I still can't bring myself to paint over rust if I can help it.It just doesn't seem right. The directions say it needs a surface with some "thooth" , I would think sandblasted surfaces would be good. Thanks again, will let you know how it turns out.
Gassman another good product that I use a lot is called cooreless? I think. Eastwood sells this product.
So far it has worked good for me.
You can leave it exposed or paint over it, it looks like red oxide primer.
It was designed for painting ofshore drilling rigs.
So far it has worked good for me.
You can leave it exposed or paint over it, it looks like red oxide primer.
It was designed for painting ofshore drilling rigs.
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I was reading a little on "Tinman Tech" site, and they have a product that has been around for 30 some odd years that is "marketed" as being better than Por-15...anyone have any experience with this stuff?
http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.html
just for the record, I am not affiliated with this site
http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.html
just for the record, I am not affiliated with this site
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A couple cautions when using POR-15.
It flows very well when applied with a brush. If you spray it, you must use an Isocyanate safe mask. That stuff can kill you if you're not careful. Its the same stuff that’s in modern BC/CC paint systems and there's a reason professional painters use a fresh air breathing system. Doesn't matter if you brush or spray make sure you're in a well-ventilated area. I sprayed my entire chassis outside in my driveway and still used a charcoal mask.
Second if you strip the rust and don't use metal prep, don't ***** if it flakes off in a year or two. The instructions are very specific on this point.
Last, it is sensitive to UV light and will "chalk" if constantly exposed to it. If you're going to use it on something that will be in the sun you'll have to top coat it with auto paint.
Oh yea, someone mentioned gloves. Use them. Once this stuff gets on your hands you can't get it off.
Good luck,
Centerline
<a href="http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com</A>
It flows very well when applied with a brush. If you spray it, you must use an Isocyanate safe mask. That stuff can kill you if you're not careful. Its the same stuff that’s in modern BC/CC paint systems and there's a reason professional painters use a fresh air breathing system. Doesn't matter if you brush or spray make sure you're in a well-ventilated area. I sprayed my entire chassis outside in my driveway and still used a charcoal mask.
Second if you strip the rust and don't use metal prep, don't ***** if it flakes off in a year or two. The instructions are very specific on this point.
Last, it is sensitive to UV light and will "chalk" if constantly exposed to it. If you're going to use it on something that will be in the sun you'll have to top coat it with auto paint.
Oh yea, someone mentioned gloves. Use them. Once this stuff gets on your hands you can't get it off.
Good luck,
Centerline
<a href="http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com</A>
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I used correless from Eastwood on my chassis. Looks good goes on easy if you thin it a little. You can brush or spray it. Sears slso carries correless. I used correct chassis black over it also from Eastwood. You can leave correless as it is or paint over it. It resists UV rays if left exposed. It's compatable with most auto paints. I'll try to put a pic in my photo album for you. I'll put a pic on of the finish paint with chassis black when it stops raining in Ohio long enough for the sun to come out and get a pic taken. Oh yeah when I was done crawling around underneath it painting I had red arms and hands. It also tries to rust encapsulate you skin. Very hard to get off. I got called down front at church the next day for local mission person of the year. I felt very foolish acepting the award with reddish brown hands and smelling like gas and paint thinner. Use gloves and a long sleeve shirt. Live and learn, right? 
It was mentioned that POR15 was a fairly new product and I don't think it's that new,I can remember it being in Hemmings for many,many years. After my last post, I remembered using it as a basecoat/primer on a rusty motorcycle tank a few years back and I sandblasted the the rust and applied it to the surface and let it cure a day or 2 before applying the Top coat and it has lasted very well, I think the extra texture (plus the blasting didn't eliminate all the rust traces only the heavy rust) helped the adhesion. The chalking comment was right on the money, I brushed some over my '40 Desoto as an interim protection until I could pull it down for the complete job and it chalked terribly.
[ May 11, 2003: Message edited by: woodz428 ]</p>
[ May 11, 2003: Message edited by: woodz428 ]</p>
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POR-15 time proven?
Believe me, I've tried em all over the years!! POR15 has been around since the late 70's, as I have a truck that I applied it on back then, and it has faded some...BUT NO RUST!!!
The others come and go, but POR is still #1.
I can give you all the warnings...gloves, mask, thinning, etc or just go here:
www.por15store.com
Check it out
Believe me, I've tried em all over the years!! POR15 has been around since the late 70's, as I have a truck that I applied it on back then, and it has faded some...BUT NO RUST!!!
The others come and go, but POR is still #1.
I can give you all the warnings...gloves, mask, thinning, etc or just go here:
www.por15store.com
Check it out
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457 Posts
So am I to understand POR 15 is only available via mail order only?
buy it here
Hey gear head. Hows the pick up body going? You can get Por from several places around you. I got mine in Port Perry and now a guy in Niagara on the Lake carries it. I'm using it on my 52 buick project . That stuff is amazing. I made a panel out of new sheet metal and painted it. A week later I found out I bent the panel wrong so I beat it with a hammer to staighten it out then clamped it the vice and hammered the bends back in it. It did not chip off. It had hammer marks but none broke through the paint. Don't forget the gloves!!!!
Hey gear head. Hows the pick up body going? You can get Por from several places around you. I got mine in Port Perry and now a guy in Niagara on the Lake carries it. I'm using it on my 52 buick project . That stuff is amazing. I made a panel out of new sheet metal and painted it. A week later I found out I bent the panel wrong so I beat it with a hammer to staighten it out then clamped it the vice and hammered the bends back in it. It did not chip off. It had hammer marks but none broke through the paint. Don't forget the gloves!!!!
So has anyone used Por -15 "metal ready" prep?? Prior to using Por-15?
Their directions say you can paint directly on bead blasted metal. That is best.
Any cleaner degreaser you use should be *water* based.
Their "metal ready" applies zinc phosphate to the surface and etches smooth metal for adhesion. Can zinc phosphate be purchased elsewhere?
I have wirewheeled, powerwashed, and hand scrubbed my frame with prep sol (does a good job dissolving the undercoating), and then powerwashed it again.
I'd like to start painting. The rep told me to let light surface rust develop before painting. However, I don't want to blow $30 on their "metal ready" if its just another sales gimmick.
Has anyone NOT used it with long lasting results??
Their directions say you can paint directly on bead blasted metal. That is best.
Any cleaner degreaser you use should be *water* based.
Their "metal ready" applies zinc phosphate to the surface and etches smooth metal for adhesion. Can zinc phosphate be purchased elsewhere?
I have wirewheeled, powerwashed, and hand scrubbed my frame with prep sol (does a good job dissolving the undercoating), and then powerwashed it again.
I'd like to start painting. The rep told me to let light surface rust develop before painting. However, I don't want to blow $30 on their "metal ready" if its just another sales gimmick.
Has anyone NOT used it with long lasting results??
I used alaot of POR-15 on my Early Bronco. I totally sandblasted the surfaces, then I used the marine clean. It is a great degreaser. Wash it off with water. I then used the metal prep. Let it sit for about 15-20 minutes and then wash off. It leaves a nice etch to the metal for the POR-15. The POR then goes on real well and sticks very hard. POR needs some kind of etching to hold on to. This can be a little rust or it can be a blasted surface. The metal ready also helps to give it some etching for the POR to stick to. I brushed on the POR-15 and it flows real well. You can't tell it was brushed on. I then topcoated with POR's chassis coat. It is a semi gloss black topcoat. It is also a pretty tough surface.
Overall I am real happy with the products. I would recommend doing all the steps as recommended by the company. This stuff seems to be real tough. Yes I would definately used the metal ready prep.
Overall I am real happy with the products. I would recommend doing all the steps as recommended by the company. This stuff seems to be real tough. Yes I would definately used the metal ready prep.
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