Ground?

801 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by Gorf, 3 mo ago

greenmonster1970

Discussion Starter · 6 mo ago

Im hoping you all can help me with this ongoing issue. Its not a hot rod, but I've gotten alot of help with my hot rod from this community, so here goes.... I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD with 6.0 (Ext. cab). Ive had it bout 8 years and have probably put 5 batteries in it. Something keeps draining them and I give up trying to find it. I had a remote starter put in it when I first got it. That may have been the only thing played with since Ive owned it. Oh yeah and running boards. I hardly drive this truck.

Symptoms
Non start. Very strange. It can sit for a month, start right up. Other times I drive it 3 or 4 days in a row, come out the next day, dead as hell.

Dash lights cutting in and out. Sometimes if I push on the dimmer switch around the dial really hard, or move the dial up and down real quick, they come on. Usually for only a brief amount of time.

Passenger side mirror directional built into the mirror really dim. This just started.

Oil pressure gauge - cant remember the last time it worked. Not sure if its related.

I also THINK a rear reverse light keeps blowing. I just had it inspected and they replaced it, bout a month ago, but I think its out again. Not sure if its related though.

Things Ive tried to fix
New negative battery cable
New starter
Checked all fuses. Couldnt find any with power, but still had draw on the battery (disconnected negative batter cable and had my test light between the negative post and the negative cable and was still lit up).
Checked 2 big ground wires underneath the drivers door bolted to the frame. Seemed ok.

Thanks for any help you all can give me.

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johnsongrass1

· #2 · 6 mo ago

On your battery drain test you really need a amp meer between the batter post and batter terminal. If it's above 1/2 amp, begine pulling fuses one at a time till it drops to .5 and you at least know what circuit it is. Likely a stuck door switch or possibly heater relay, possibly a alternator.

If your thinkig ground, Start adding them. You cna replace or just as easily add more using 18g wire and cheap hoops for ends. More is better. Clean off the area, grind or sand it shiny, add your hoops and a dab of dialectric grease run it the nut or screws down.

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cgates

· #3 · 6 mo ago

I had a similar problem with my 17 2500 and it turned out to be a loose battery cable where the positive cable connects after leaving the battery. I kept loosing time on the clock and telling me to raise and lower the drivers window. Then sometimes it just was dead.

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'49 Ford Coupe

· #4 · 6 mo ago

Alternator intermittent diode tree failure will run down the battery, but not always.. get a clamp-on DC amprobe and check alternator output wire everytime you shutdown ..

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greenmonster1970

Discussion Starter · #5 · 4 mo ago

I’m back. Still dealing with this problem. There’s definitely a good draw on the battery, not normal parasitic draw. I was driving it everyday, it was fine after I changed the battery , alternator and starter. Came out another day, dead as a door nail. So today I decided to go to battle with it again. The check engine light is on for evap code which it has been for quite a while but the shop down the street keeps passing it for inspection saying it’s not needed to pass and “no big deal “. So today I’m chasing ground wires and notice the wiring going to the evap can up on the backside of the tank is completely broken off and dangling right at the connector. Could this cause a draw? I have my test light between the negative cable and the negative terminal on the battery and it’s nice and bright. I’m going to assume the broken evap wires aren’t the cause of the drain cuz I pulled every fuse and the test light never went out. I’m out of ideas. Thanks for any help.

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'49 Ford Coupe

· #6 · 4 mo ago

Did you get a clamp-on DC amprobe? It's well worth the investment... 'specially since the fault is alluding you..... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YW...nkCode=ogi&psc=1&tag=shopperz_origin1-20&th=1

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'48 Austin

· #7 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Make sure glove compartment and dome lights don't stay on. Anything recently added like stereo or amplifier, or fog lights, or relays, that may draw power?
Try disconnecting the main output stud from alternator to see if battery draw stops. Then unplug smaller alternator wires to see if draw stops. If draw stops, rebuild (at a good shop) or replace alternator. It is possible the, ECM (Engine Control Module) or the BCM (Body Control Module) are sending power to the alternator or some other accessory when shut down and causing a draw. ECM or BCM failure to cause this is rare but possible.

Check videos below for more possibilities:

2004 chevy silverado 2500hd battery drain - Google Search

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greenmonster1970

Discussion Starter · #8 · 3 mo ago

Thanks. I did that yesterday. No change.

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Eduramac

· #9 · 3 mo ago

greenmonster1970 said:
I’m back. Still dealing with this problem. There’s definitely a good draw on the battery, not normal parasitic draw. I was driving it everyday, it was fine after I changed the battery , alternator and starter. Came out another day, dead as a door nail. So today I decided to go to battle with it again. The check engine light is on for evap code which it has been for quite a while but the shop down the street keeps passing it for inspection saying it’s not needed to pass and “no big deal “. So today I’m chasing ground wires and notice the wiring going to the evap can up on the backside of the tank is completely broken off and dangling right at the connector. Could this cause a draw? I have my test light between the negative cable and the negative terminal on the battery and it’s nice and bright. I’m going to assume the broken evap wires aren’t the cause of the drain cuz I pulled every fuse and the test light never went out. I’m out of ideas. Thanks for any help.

Not likely.

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'49 Ford Coupe

· #10 · 3 mo ago

Hey, green monster, did you read my recommendation? It might cost you $50..

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Gorf

· #11 · 3 mo ago

With an ammeter you can trouble shoot this down to exactly the circuit that is causing the issue. Almost any off the shelf multimeter has this capability built in. Lift the ground from your battery. Connect the meter, in the amp setting, between the battery negative terminal and the chassis connector your just removed. Make sure that any additional connections that were there are all tied together. The meter must sit inline for all the current load sources. Then you can see what the actual load is. In any modern car a few 10s of mA's is ok. For the battery draining situation you are sharing I'm expecting it to be in excess of at least 1A. Now, one-by-one, remove fuses. Remove a fuse and then take note of the current draw. If it doesn't change, then put the fuse back in and move on to the next fuse. Eventually you will find the fuse or fuses that make up the drain. That will tell you what circuit it is, Then you will be able to lookup manuals and find out what is on the circuit.

In my RV (2004 Ford F-450), I had to play this exact same game. It turned out the be a failed circuit in the dash cluster that would engage and stay engaged to the tune of 1.2A. Over a good 24-ish hour period that was enough to kick the battery down far enough that I couldn't start the rig.

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