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The Penny Pincher
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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone do that, guidecoat clear after coarse sanding (like 400)
before finish sanding (like 1200)
What works good? spraying a guidecoat like normally done over primer?
Or what about the 3M dry guidecoat that people on here really like,
will it work on clear with 400 scratches?
Would like to hear your preferences,thanks! :pimp:
 

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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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400, that is pretty coarse for clear. 600 would be MAX and that is only if there is a darn good reason like something fell in it or something.

What I do is use the texture as your "guide". Sand it flat but not totally flat, leave some texture, then move on to a finer grit. Watch very closely at how much you have sanded, but more importantly how much is left. Each time you move up a grit you watch that "guide" leave, what ever guide you are using to judge how much you have cut and how much is left.

Be sure to sand evenly over the entire surface. That way if you sand the same over the same surface you WILL be getting out all the scratches from the previous sanding.

Brian
 

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I have never used the black powder guide coats but if I'm re-clearing I will spray a light coat of aerosol paint over the clear and then block with 320 or 400 for re-clearing.

I also will do this on black jobs for wet-sanding and buffing to make sure it is totally flat.
 

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Yes, depending on car and what I'm trying to accomplish.

On the youngest boys stang deck lid (true blue) I spray three wet coats and next day sprayed some green aero paint wife had left over and da'd the deck lid with 320 DA and then went to 1500 wet and 2000 and 4000 to buff.

More I think about it, like Bob said stay away from the black blocking powder as I could see real problems with that around the clear.
 

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The Penny Pincher
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Discussion Starter #7
I'd love to have a picture of you with an aerosol can going
over your fresh new clearcoat, that would make a great picture
for the Pee two forum.
Maybe you could guide coat with their paint (Kirk#@) and bragg how
easy it comes off making it a great guide coat-LOL. :pimp:
 

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BarryK said:
Yes, depending on car and what I'm trying to accomplish.

On the youngest boys stang deck lid (true blue) I spray three wet coats and next day sprayed some green aero paint wife had left over and da'd the deck lid with 320 DA and then went to 1500 wet and 2000 and 4000 to buff.

More I think about it, like Bob said stay away from the black blocking powder as I could see real problems with that around the clear.
Barry, 1500 wet will remove 320 DA scratches?

Ed
 

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Yes but I have done it for years that way and it requires a through sanding with the 1500, for a first timer go to 1000 then 1500 and so on to be safe.

The DA is a little radical and I'm not recommending that as I have a finish DA for that job and if you stick any old DA on there you could make a mess, so wetsanding is better option.
 

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BarryK said:
Yes but I have done it for years that way and it requires a through sanding with the 1500, for a first timer go to 1000 then 1500 and so on to be safe.

The DA is a little radical and I'm not recommending that as I have a finish DA for that job and if you stick any old DA on there you could make a mess, so wetsanding is better option.
I have my 2 "flow indicators" that I want out and perfectly flat. I want to cut them with 400 to flatten and then 600 wet, 1200 wet, 2000 wet and 4000 Abralon. I was just curious how are far you could jump and remove the 320 scratches.

The rest of the body I am hitting with 1200 wet for any peel and dust nibs, then 2000 wet and 4000 Abralon. I will only use the DA on the Abralon. The rest is hand sanding with blocks.

Ed
 

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Best way to get a run out and I always said I would never post something like this. Must be the bi polar mood I'm in.

Take 320 DA paper dry and NO block with your fingers lightly start sanding only on the high part of run, if its two inches wide do the whole two inches only along the high ridge of the run. As you get the high part back to the flatness of the clear and it will be easy to tell in a dry state, then get your wet paper out with a paint stick or a block and block out at usual.

This will keep you from breaking through the clear and it will eliminate catching the right angle and see where the run was.

Because if you start out with a block you will be sanding flat clear around the area at the same time.

Another thing a lot of painters do and I have done it once so I know it does work. They will mix up a little glazing putty like icing or dolphin glaze and spread a tight coat of the putty over the area, so as your blocking the run, your blocking the glazing putty and when the putty is gone the run in gone and again it stops you from breaking through or seeing the run after it is out.
 

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Barry, the areas I have a more sags than runs. I take a fresh razor blade and bend a slight curve in it. I then drag the blade, with the curve down so that the corners are facing up away from the surface, over the high part of the run and scrape or shave it down until I reach the level of the clear. Then I use the paint stick to finish leveling it. This works well, for me at least.

Regards,
Ed
 

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run removal, I find the best way is to remove 80-90% of the run with either the razor scraper method or with a block, then allow the clear some time to catch up curewise with the rest of the job. Then finish off with a block and buff. You usually find that where the run is the clear is softer because the build is thicker than the surrounding area, if you finish it off while it's to fresh the runs will show up again when fully cured.

I tried the guidecoat over clear on a hood once quite a few years back, it was going to be sanded for a reclear and this was on an oem hood that wasn't blocked to show quality perfection before paint-1st mistake not considering just how straight the panel was. I sprayed some aresol guidecoat on the hood and went to town with 320, ended up cutting through the clear and into the base, I vowed to never try that again but maybe I will someday, but probably not... I don't struggle with sanding clear flat without a guidecoat.

Another thing I did regularly when doing production work was use a felt tipped marker to highlight any imperfections, nibs, etc. that needed to be knocked down before buffing. This saved time and made sure I didn't miss anything but one day I tried a different brand marker-mistake. It was on a yellow car and that black dye soaked well into two layers of the fresh clear, quite a struggle that ended up costing me time and never did that again.
 

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point on positive
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I'll sometimes use a DRY ERASE type marker to highlite a nib or run or area of concern that hides in the water when wetsanding for buffing... The dry erase seems to hang tight in the water and then wipes off if on a dry surface .. cool trick , but not for a too deep a fisheye or pop hole ,, use caution and uncommon sence etc. :thumbup:

 

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The Penny Pincher
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Discussion Starter #15
Badbob-I'm with you, I never use those really coarse grits because
I know I'd go through. 1000 is as coarse as I've gone.
But all my work is collision repair and not needing (or wanting)
a glass flat finish. That's what we have to remember here,
how flat are you really after.
When talking about guidecoating clear and grits like 400 and 320,
we're talking about that super out of the ordinary show car finish.
I'll leave that to Bondoqueen and Barry, for me, most times I do
repairs and not have to buff at all. (except for dirt or runs)
That's my favorite kind of buffing-none! :pimp:
 
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