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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed a new 383 crate engine and a Tremec 5 speed.
The engine came complete with the exception of a starter. It was dyno at the factory and the timing etc all set.
It's all installed and won't start. It's getting fuel and I have a spark but when I turn the key it turns over great it just wont start.
It has a MSD Distributor, 6A box and blaster 2 coil. Like I said I get a spark and I've checked my wiring per the MSD instructions and all looks fine.
Any suggestions on what else to check???? :confused:

Thanks, Mark
 

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your probably 180 deg. off .. take out #1 plug,,put finger over hole,, bump over till it blows your finger,,that's t.d.c. #1....pull off cap,, see where it's pointing...that's #1 on dist..reset wires..make sure of firing order,,rotation ect.. it should start...if you have fuel coming out carb,,and spark at plugs,, that's all that is left..it's a new motor,, so no problem there...
 

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Maybe they never really ran it. Just because they sent you a sheet, doesn't mean it is from that engine. If you do find it to be 180 out, I would call them to get an explanation.
Who did you buy it from.
 

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180 was my first thought, just never thought that they would not have dynoed the engine. wont take but a second to check. you don't even have to do the finger in the number one spark plug hole. you can simply line up your timing marks and should have your there. if timing is straight then all that is left is way too rich
 

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nskeeter99 said:
180 was my first thought, just never thought that they would not have dynoed the engine. wont take but a second to check. you don't even have to do the finger in the number one spark plug hole. you can simply line up your timing marks and should have your there. if timing is straight then all that is left is way too rich
This statement is completly wrong, the timing mark means nothing without proof of compression stroke
 

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if the engine was assembled correctly then when the timing marks line up you should be a tdc. Then look under your cap to see were you rotor is. I understand you statement of it having to be the compression stroke, however if it was put together right then is should be on the composition stroke when the timing marks line up. Basically if there is nothing broke inside then they only way that your not at tdc are close to it when your marks line up then your timing chain are belt has been installed wrong.
 

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nskeeter99 said:
if the engine was assembled correctly then when the timing marks line up you should be a tdc. Then look under your cap to see were you rotor is. I understand you statement of it having to be the compression stroke, however if it was put together right then is should be on the composition stroke when the timing marks line up. Basically if there is nothing broke inside then they only way that your not at tdc are close to it when your marks line up then your timing chain are belt has been installed wrong.
The mark can be at tdc compression or tdc exhaust. You obviously dont understand completly how this works. Please dont give out information if you ar not 100% sure it is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I tried the finger in the #1 spark plug hole and found TDC. When I took the distributor cover off the rotor was facing towards plug #1 which I believe means it's not 180* out and should be fine.
Back to square 1

By the way it's a Blueprint engine made by Marshall engine. Purchased it through Jegs

I'm all ears if anyone has more suggestions. Thanks for all the tips so far.

Mark
 

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Do you have a constant spark while cranking it over, or just a spark when you turn the key on?

There was a new MSD distributor here for a 5.0HO Ford Mustang. It was dropping cylinders out. In my inspection, I found the air gap on the pickup coil to be over .050. It should be between .015 and .018. The replacement one ran fine.
 

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nskeeter99 said:
if the engine was assembled correctly then when the timing marks line up you should be a tdc. Then look under your cap to see were you rotor is. I understand you statement of it having to be the compression stroke, however if it was put together right then is should be on the composition stroke when the timing marks line up. Basically if there is nothing broke inside then they only way that your not at tdc are close to it when your marks line up then your timing chain are belt has been installed wrong.
For you and others out there who haven't thought things through on a motor, there are 720 degrees of crankshaft rotation (2 complete turns of the crank) to make one complete cycle of firing all cylinders. On any four-cycle motor, the camshaft sprocket/gear is twice the diameter of the crankshaft sprocket/gear, so it requires two turns of the crank to equal one turn of the cam. Put another way, the cam turns 1/2 crank speed, so as the crank turns 720 degrees, the cam turns 360 degrees. The piston of any given cylinder is at top dead center twice during this complete 720 degree cycle, once at compression/firing and once at overlap at the end of the exhaust stroke.
 

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if your timing is on then all that is left is fuel. check to make sure your carb is not dumping fuel and or check to make sure you plugs aren't fouled. I think some one else mentended it in earlyer post check your compression, who knows what has happend since the dyno pull.
 

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I'm betting that the motor was not dyno'd. When these builders put a combination together, they'll dyno the first one, then just include that dyno sheet from the first motor with all subsequent motors that go out the door that are built to that spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok gentlemen I've narrowed it down.
When I checked for spark before I checked that the coil was giving out a spark.I followed the MSD trouble shooting proceedure.

I just checked to make sure the spark was at the plugs and it isn't.
Does that mean the rotor is not making contact. All suggestions will be appreciated
Please forgive my inexperience. Although I'm not a kid I'm just getting into fixing hotrods the last several years. I always liked them just never could afford one.

Thanks in advance for any help. Mark
 

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If you have spark at the coil tower you should have spark at the plugs. The only things that could prevent this are a bad coil wire, a bad or missing rotor, a bad or mismatched cap or bad plug wires. How did you test at the plugs. The rotor and cap just "distribute" the spark to the individual cylinders.
I am guessing you checked for spark at the coil by pulling the coil wire out of the distributor, holding it close to ground and cranking. If so it sort of eliminates the coil wire from being defective. Make sure the rotor is fully seated and is not broken. If you had the cap on and not seated properly you may have broken the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Chet,

I tested the coil as you stated.
I purchased a gizzmo you plug into the spark plug wire to check spark at the plug and nothing.
I just pulled the cap and everything looks good. The rotor has the tab on it and the spring metal in the center seems fine. The cap looks good. The rotor apears to be screwed into something is that right or should it just pull off?
I'll keep looking. All parts are new so it looks OK ??? :confused:
 
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