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Or you can get a thicker header flange and weld it to your thinner flange. You need to be careful welding the flanges together. But this will save you from buying a new set of headers.
From here you use a gasket that squishes. Remflex makes a great gasket for this. But you need to be careful not to bend it during the install. But this will save you from a new set of headers. If need be the flange can be plained to match your heads. But the remflex gasket is often enough to seal.
 

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years ago I had a set of cheap headers with a thin flange. worked but started leaking after a year or so. went to replace the gaskets & found the flanges were warped. cut the headers to separate the tubes, replaced the gaskets & reinstall. no issues after that.
you should not have problems with headers having the thicker flange.
 

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Been suggested to cut header flange between exhaust tubes so as not to warp. As nyo e do this? Thanks
If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. You may find if it does leak, cutting the flange may trade that for not getting every individual tube to bolt to the head.

I usually use aluminum or copper gaskets, if you experience a leak it doesn’t destroy the gasket a simple retightening the bolts just secures things again. The other good choice is a carbon/carbon gasket these follow any warpage, within reason, so you don’t get leaks.

I find, especially with inexpensive headers, that putting a length of stainless braid flex pipe between the collector and head pipe helps by relieving the flange and its bolts to the head from absorbing exhaust system motions when the exhaust system is suspended on flexible mountings.

Having run headers for decades I find that in a couple years even thin flange headers settle down and stop leaking on one tube or another. Until that happens with the gaskets I suggest this is just a twice to thrice a year of going over the bolts to snug ‘en up.

If your racing then you should use a thick flange header as the forces on the race track simply demand it.

Bogie
 
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