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Discussion Starter #1
About 100 miles after the new heads I am having some trouble. First off I am having an oil leak around the base of the timing cover. No biggie, I have a 1 piece oil pan gasket to replace and fix it. However I noticed the oil looking a bit more brown than usual. My rad is old and leaks a bit of coolant from time to time as well, which I accounted for the missing coolant.

Anywho I drained the oil and it looks like chocolate milk. I poured the contents into a milk jug hoping that in a few days any chemicals will seperate and I'll be able to tell.

I would really HATE to have to do the headgaskets again. Everything was done by the book. The only thing I can think of is the block not being level anymore.

Would coolant getting into the oil via the headgasket HAVE to also enter the cylinders? I dont get any white smoke. I am hoping maybe its entering the oil via the lifter valley.

Any comments/suggestions? Any thoughts on what caliber rifle would peirce the block?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have an old Mauser . . . that should do the trick.

Any suggestions on the easiet way to determine the leak?

Will the chemicals seperate after awhile in the milkjug?
 

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The Smell of Nitro in the morn
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Full metal jacket.
Like Bob says, intake gasket or head bolts could leaking.
Any water under the valve covers would be the bolt/studs not sealing.
Did you re-torque the heads after break-in?
Usually on head gaskets its the opposite, compression is in the coolant system. I won't even say a cracked intake/block.
LOL :thumbup:
 

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If that mauser wont do it I got a good 300 win mag that will. I would look more for a intake leak than head gasket. Most gaskets I have used say to not retorque. If you have access to a radiator tester put it under pressure and see if you can hear or see it. With out the engine running you might find it. Going in through the lifter valley is a good guess. My question is how did you torque the intake? I will probably get shot down but my nephew had problems getting his on a 302 to seal. I finally got to see how he torqued it and I see why. He would run it through the torque and that was it, done. The last time he did it I was there. After he torqued it I said retorque it again. The center bolt were less than half torque. He had to go over it 6 times before I said ok now its torqued. I start by going to half on all bolts doing each twice. Then to full torque and I keep going to full torque until no bolts move. Sometimes takes 5 or 6 times. This is all before I start the engine.
 

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torquing

I go through head and main torquing sequence by going in thirds til I get ot max torque. Then I may go through the pattern 4-5 times more just to be sure.

Intakes I take down in two steps then keep repeating til Im happy with it. Same with rods .
 

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Siggy, siggy, If anyone else were to ask the same questions you just asked you would offer up a wealth of information for them to find the solution. Isn't it funny, i do the same thing. Whenever i have a problem and i'm stumped, i ask advice of other people which in turn tell me basically what i already know. Most of the time anyway. I guess we are all looking for an easy solution but in the end we end up doing all the troubleshooting ourselves anyway. Since i've been a user on this board i've watched your answers and found you to be extremely knowledgeable, especially for your age. This problem is way too easy for you. You just have to get your hands dirty. BTW , if you squeeze a little Dupont Plasti'cs into your cylinders via your plug holes, then put your plugs and wires back and fire that bad boy up you wont have to worry about milk in the oil anymore. lol rick
 

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The Smell of Nitro in the morn
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How can you tell something is torqued by hand just because its seated and not use the proper tool ?
The intake must be torqued down in a pattern and done in 3 steps to 30 ft.lbs. Its in the Knowledge base.
Hand tightening out of order just causes leaks, everyone has their own version of tight.
To tight and the gaskets will spilt and leak water into the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
lol I know I know. I guess I am just looking for someone who can tell me it will all be okay ;).

I am going to check the headbolts and intake manifold bolts and intake gaskets. Hoping for the best but preparing for the worst. Its just a pain in the *** to do these headgaskets . . . especially having to disconnect all the wiring of the TPI and whatnot.

I'll also apply some pressure and see if I can hear a leak. I'll have the oil pan gasket off soon so I'll see if it starts comin down through the crankcase.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll take up some threads using my hands but once it gets close i get out the torque wrench. I normally do the headbolts in 3 steps and intake in 2. The TPI manifold has a different torque sequence than most sbc intakes I've seen. Instead of inside out type sequence they have front to back on driver side and then the same on passenger side.
 

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I am not sure on the hand tightening thing, but I have never had an intake that I can get a regular torque wrench on every bolt. In that case I break out the combination wrenches and use my calibrated hand as a torque wrench.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fortunately I can get a torque wrench on every bolt. However as its a TPI I must disassemble the runners and upper plenum and take off the thermostat housing. But if it fixes the problem then its very worth it.
 
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