Hot Rod Forum banner
1 - 14 of 41 Posts

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
So its a street car i assume? How much do you want to spend? Stock torque converter? Would you want to upgrade? Sorry for all the questions. I'm just trying to get some info so me or someone else can give you accurate suggestions.
 

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
Well if you want to use forced induction you will have to build it deffiently, ie: cam choice, cr, pistons, etc...
If your'r going to stay n/a then i'd get a good set of aluminum heads. I'm not sure what heads you have on there now and what size combustion chambers they have, so i cant suggest some. But difinitely aluminum, save weight too. If you can get the head casting numbers then i could tell you what heads would be good.
If you want to make serious power then you will need a decent sized cam. Would you want to keep the stock converter or would using a higher stall one be something you'd want?
One thing i can tell you for sure is that you will need a new intake and carb. The performer is best on stock engines. For performance you'll want to look into a performer rpm. The 650 carb won't be enough. You'll need a 750. I'd stay vaccum secondaries for the street.
You'll need headers and dual 2.5” exhaust with good flowing mufflers if you dont have that already. And h pipe would be a good idea too. For mufflers, i like thrush. Their turbo muffler sounds real nice, a little quiet for my taste though. Their 2 chamber sounds awsome with a big cam, not too loud, but you will definitely be heard.
 

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
You'll be hitting the 400 mark most likely.
You'll need a 750 carb and peeformer rpm intake too if you want to get anything oyt out the engine. Make sure you change your timing chain too. I'd go the double roller route. And no, you cant use forced induction with it. The compression will be too high.
 

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
Normally when you run forced induction you use a forged rotating assembly. And as far as you have told me, you dont have it. Also the heads i gave you will put you at a 9.5:1 cr. That will put you in range for 87 octane but will also give you some extra horses. If you want to use forced induction then you will need to build it differently. Different heads, different carb, different cam, double keyway crank snout, etc... So basically nothing i have suggested will apply if you want to used forced induction. The setup i gave you will be good for around 400 horses.
 

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
X2 on that ^^^. I like my cars to run on the cheapest gas there is. With fuel prices nowadays its not worth it to build higher compression for what? 15hp? Waste of money.

But before you do anything else, decide whether or not you want to use forced induction. What are your power goals? And how much work do you want to do?
 

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
You cant have both. Either build it for forced induction or build it to be n/a. If you want the 400hp now then when you decide to go the blower route you will have to change everything and will end up spending tripple your money and time. You have to plan your build for forced induction, it cant be an after though.
 

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
Like 68 said, how much power do you want? Why not use a 144 blower? Looks cooler, sounds cooler, easier to set up, you dont need a blow through carb. Think this through.
Major question: HOW MUCH POWER DO YOU WANT WHEN IT'S ALL SET AND DONE? That will be your deciding factor on what route to take.
 

· Of course it's fast
Joined
·
3,109 Posts
The 383 will cost $4k alone. Then you'll only have maybe 420hp. Not even close to 600. Use the engine you have, it's cheaper that way. 350s aren't worth much. You will not make your money back. Not even close.
 
1 - 14 of 41 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top