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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks for such a nice site, it's just what I was looking for. I am in the process of re-building a 1933 Ford Tudor Sedan. The body has been in our family for over forty (40) years, while always stored indoors, it is in reasonable shape but still needs plenty of work.
For the engine, I choose to stay all Ford and so I went with a 4.6L DOHC Cobra Supercharged engine, bought new. I have already changed the fuel rails (Aeromotive), injectors, (Ford 42lb/hr) throttle body and intake manifold (Accufab), headers (BBK Long tube Ceramic Coated), Valve covers and coil covers (Ford Performance Parts), oil pan (Canton) and sent the blower out for porting and polishing (Stiegmeier's). I also built my own engine wiring harness (the Detail Zone) and will use products from Innovate Motorsports for complete data logging service. We also went with a Ford automatic transmission, a 4R70W unit from Performance Automotive that has been gone thru and designed to withstand the 600+ HP we plan on making.
The Chassis started with new frame rails from ASC, and a tubular center section and cross members. I went with a Winters Quick Change and held it in place with Hiedt's Triangulated 4-bar set-up. I also used a Jeg's anti-roll bar, and coil-overs came from Hiedt's. Right now the frame is 65% done, the rear end is in and the 4-bar and coil over cross member is in, I currently am working on the fuel tank which needs major modifications to work with the quick change rear end. It needs to have a section about 12" wide,10" deep and roughly 6.5" high removed and then boxed in. The problem is the quick change is so much longer then a typical rear end, that the back portion of the rear end hit the fuel tank, even at normal ride height! So to make everything work, I need to remove a large portion of the center of the tank. I looked around and was amazed how many so called tank suppliers and even fuel tank builder hadn't heard about anything like this. They acted like I had 4-heads or something when I called them, this would seem to me to be a very common problem with anyone that ran a quick change rear end in a stock or lowered car. Oh, well I have the fix and that's what counts.
The Body is still attached to the original frame at this moment, I need to finish my body cart so I can place the body on it and get rid of the frame and all it's parts. Anyone needing a n original frame in very good condition with all the original suspension, flat head and transmission send me a note. I have bought the Dakota Digital gauges for the car, and many, many new body pieces like door handles, headlight, tail lights, rubber molding and so forth. I have it all displayed on shelves and peg board, but it feels so far away at the moment that I can not fore see when it will be installed. I have basically bought all the major system, engine, transmission, steering column (flaming River) and supporting hardware, brake system and it's hardware, fuel system and it's supporting systems, radiator, transmission-inter-cooler-engine oil coolers (all B&M Hy-Tec W/fans) Frame, Front and rear suspensions, etc.. I have also bought the floor panel for both front and rear floor boards, and any patch panels that were needed.
My project is about 15-20% finished, I have bought alot, but that doesn't count for much. I want my project to be a mix of the old, with the flair of the roaring 30's and the complexity and sophistication of the 21st century. I want my car to be all Ford, like it should be, and I want it to be a dependable daily driver that gets 20MPG. I have been working on my own web site so people can keep up with my cars progress, see how I changed things or just get some information. the address is www.**************.com . Just follow the Project Cobra buttons.
Again thanks for such a nice web site, and I'm looking forward to getting to know as many of you as I can, thanks.
 

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Welcome aboard. Sounds like you should start a project journal. I suppose you could PM me with that link. I'd love to see it.
 
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