There is no "best way", but there are a couple of schools of thought:
The engine will not fit through the hood opening without either removing everything up to and including the heads or cutting and removing the upper cross-brace of the radiator support to remove the engine from the front. Cutting the front cross-brace sheetmetal is perfectly acceptable (and diagrams for repair brackets for replacement are shown in manuals), but it is also possible to remove the subframe (and that method is shown in manuals for people sufficiently fortunate to have a vehicle lift - a group to which I do not belong).
The pictures of the tilted vehicles might make the endeavour appear daunting to some, but the front half of the body without the subframe didn't put any more strain on my hoist than anything else for which it was designed. Having pulled many an engine using "conventional" methods and now two from the bottom, I would say that anyone with the tools, skill, and desire to remove an engine can just as easily go this route. Other than the usual hand tools, I used an engine hoist, a floor jack, two jack stands, and a couple of boards.
Is there more to undo when pulling the subframe? Of course there is. You're removing much more of the running gear this way but will have extremely easy access to all of it.
I am a One Man Show (sons grown and gone). During removal, I made this support from some scrap and easily rolled the whole assembly around.
I'm not looking to argue which way is 'better' for someone else, but I will say to someone considering which way to go,
"If you can undo the bolts, fittings and automotive electrical connectors required to pull an engine, you can do this too. It isn't any harder. There is only more of the same 'undoing' to roll everything out from underneath. Much of the work is exactly the same whichever route you choose. You just have to decide for yourself if you'd rather undo the brake & fuel lines, additional transmission/transfer case connectors, exhaust (3 nuts at the flange + the 4 O2 sensors), steering knuckle (1 bolt), and the 6 body mounts; or cut your rad support, unbolt the engine from it's mounts and from the trans & torque converter, remove whatever from the top to get the hoist hook in the limited confines of the van, pull the block & heads through the front, and then fabricate some brackets for the cut rad support to complete the reinstallation."
It is really only a matter of personal preference and, personally, I would go this route again without hesitation. Even if I didn't want to go this far:
I am mechanically inclined (as are you otherwise you wouldn't be considering this), but I am also only one, unknown-to-you source (and by no means no authority on All Things Astro) so use your own head in your research. I did this particular swap for the first time starting in June of this year. However, the 'official' write-ups I've found on removing the subframe make it more it difficult than it really is. They advise the reader to remove the entire electrical harness with the subframe by disconnecting it at the firewall bulkhead connector and snaking it out of the body with the subframe. I got about half-way through that 'suggested' method before thinking "This is stupid!" and started down my own route using my own eyes.
I found it much simpler to leave the electrical harness in the body and disconnect items just as with a 'traditional' engine R&R and the obvious little extra (i.e. the transmission and transfer case will be coming out, so you obviously need to unplug the few electrical connections there, etc).
I sincerely hope this helps and apologize if I've taken up too much of your introduction with my posts.
thanks again, i like this way you have done the conversion, i have a lift so that will make it it a bit easier for me, had a look at your website and left you a message, thanks again for your time, much appreciated ,