I am running a Holley 4010 carb. with manual choke. I want to convert to auto electric choke. Checking on the Web I can find no dedicated conversion kit for the 4010. What kit should I use. Thanks in advance.
The electric chokes aren't all they are cracked up to be. I have taken more of those off and converted to manual than the other way around.
Here's some "helpful" information if you decide to proceed with the change:
If you adjust the choke housing, choke blade, and linkage properly. Then it will have full travel.
1. The choke spring only has so much travel. When cold to hot (heated by the 12 volts). If you try to exceed this limit. The choke will not fully release the "weighted speed step". The part you folks are saying that's "sticking".
2. The choke blade should not be 100% closed when setting up the choke adjustment. You should have a small gap between the top of the choke blade and the airhorn. 1/16 to 1/8" works fine.
Note: Some carburetors have a "suck valve" on the choke blade. It lets more air in, if the choke blade is closed too much. If the carburetor has one, use it as a tunning aid.
In other words: If on a cold, choked engine. The valve is opening. Adjust the choke to have a larger gap between the top of the choke blade & air horn.
3. The choke spring housing (behind the black cap) has a "controlled vacuum leak passage". This is used generally for two purposes.
A. It lets in air to cool the 12 volt choke spring. It will burn up with out the air.
B. Some springs are connected to a mini connecting rod & piston. The vacuum leak sucks the piston in, and helps open the spring. Without it, the choke blade could be held in the closed position by the velocity of the air rushing past it.
Note: Make sure the piston moves freely, the passage way is clean from the outside of the choke housing to the base of the carburetor, and you have a gasket between the choke housing and the body of the carburetor.
4. The rods are to be installed dry. Never use any type of lubrication, or grease on them.
5. The three basic rods used on electric choke carburetors.
A. From choke spring to lever on "thick" rod that goes across the top of the carburetor.
General leave this one alone (don't bend it). If it's a used carburetor, it might have been bent, or replaced with the wrong one.
Why would you adjust it? To get it to line up with the markings on the black plastic choke cap, and the marks on the aluminum choke housing. This sets up that piston I was talking about, to be in the "right" place.
Note: You need to adjust the next two rods first. Before you can even think about adjusting this one!
B. This rod goes from the choke blade to the middle of the thick rod that goes across the top of the carburetor.
If it "feels" like the choke is not opening, or closing all the way from the "heated choke spring". This is the rod to bend.
Note: The heated choke spring might need to be replaced if it's off a lot. You should not have to bend the spring that much. 1/16" or less is ok.
C. The rod (on the throttle level side of the carburetor) that goes to the "weighted speed step" lever.
This is easy to adjust: Unscrew the fast idle speed screw untill there is no way it could be touching any of the steps. Then open the choke all the way. The weighted lever should be at it's lowest position. Bend the rod a little to get it there.
Why would you need to do these adjustments for a new carburetor you just removed from a box?
Because it's the wrong carburetor for the application. The rods had the wrong bend in them.
Tip: Never use an electric choke carburetor in a dusty/dirty environment, or on a "true" high performance engine. The controlled vacuum leak at the choke housing is not filtered air!
The Holley 4010 and 4011 are now exclusivly made for and sold by Summit Racing. They changed the model numbers to M2008. I haven't done any conversion work on these so can't provide an answer as to how common its choke is to other Holliey's. My recommendation is to contact Summit.
The history of this carb is it derives from the old Ford 4100 but was significantly updated and upgraded by Holley. But if you look at them you can see the family resemblances of the Holley remake and subsequent Summit models to the original Ford. From the begining it used several common parts with the Holley like jets, power valve, and accelerating pump diaphragm. This speaks to Holley's long association with Ford, everything about the Ford 2100, 2bbl and 4100, 4bbl shows thes carbs to be a cost reduction exercise of the classic Holley end bowl carb.
They work very well but don't tolerate grit in the fuel as it falls onto and into the upward facing jets and power valve so having high quality fuel filters and keeping them maintained is important.
I will check my holley books as it has a section on rebuilding those particular carbs and I will be able to tell if you can use an holley standard electric choke upgrade kit. There are two different ones. One if for internal vacuum which the choke has a hole on the backside of it which in the main body it has a hole that goes through the casting into the middle of the barrels inside the carb to allow the vacuum signal to pull open up the choke plate to allow enough air in to start up the vehicle. There is another one which has an external vacuum source hookup and is normally used on double pumpers since they don't have those on the older ones but has changed on the newer ones. It does the same function and allows the piston pull off to pull the choke flap open enough to allow the engine to start.
Then there is the other style that quick fuel uses and many other brands where there is no piston pull off on the choke plate and there has to be some opening on the electric choke use and they cut out a section on the rear of the choke flap so when you fire it up it will start but it does not do as good as the piston pull off version as I have used all of them. They have there good points vs the manual choke but the manual choke is nice as once you have it set right then you don't have any more issues and if your car has been sitting for a while sometimes it takes some more time to get it fired up and with an electric choke if your car has not started up yet then by that time the choke would have opened up to far and thus you will have no choke to help start it.
With a manual choke you can just set it and once fired up keep it running for a few then just let off of it and your good to go. I went back to manual as the electric is nice but has its drawbacks if you don't drive much. The other part is if you use it and you stop at a place for a few minutes and your engine is still warm enough to not need a choke the choke element will cool off enough that once you hit the gas it will reset itself some and maybe not the full way but enough its on and then you have a nice rich idle start off again that you don't need. During the warmer months I just disconnect it since its not needed at that time.
The other part too as stated above you have to be careful on setting your high speed idle as if you get it to much then even when your choke is all the way off the fast idle speed screw will sometimes still make contact with the fast idle cam and make your idle stick. I fought that so many times and on some days it can be set as to rich or to lean and I hate messing with mine and since I don't drive much if I give it enough pump shots to start up then I am good but if I give it not enough and then give it a few more and it still starts to fire up but its just not quite enough then at that point its to late as I have pumped it to much and its flooded and the choke is already have way open and i have to wait to get it started.
I will get back and look through my books and give you a answer. Looking at summits ones they would work and interchange but I don't know how much they changed between the old holley brand 4010/11 models.
I looked through my old holley manuals and I don't know if the holley electric choke would fit your holley or not as its different from the summit upgrade newer version which takes the same chokes as all modern holley 4150 4160 carbs does. The ones in the manual looks different shape wise but screw location wise looks the same but I would have to have pictures of your carb with the choke on it and then with it off and also the fast idle cam on the throttle shaft as well on what it looks like.
Thank you for the response to my post. You guys certainly have given me a lot to think about. The car won't be driven much if any in cold weather. Although it will be started in a stand alone unheated garage. Waiting to hear from eric32 to see if there is even a possibility to change to an electric choke.
Up date: I posted this before I saw Eric 32's last post. Thank you Eric32
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