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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys I am in the process of putting my stuff back together on my intake and getting my carb ready and I used a different intake this time and that is another story but going to get fired up tomorrow or Tuesday but with the new intake and stuff I am having another problem since this intake does not sit as high as my old one and the previous Holley I used had side hung fuel bowls and was only temporary and I put together back my main carb and am using center hung fuel bowls.

I have currently a temporary setup using steel line and rubber hose frankenstein type hookup but want to use my good fuel rail like I have below on the pictures you can see the problem as to where the fuel rail is direct line going to hit my heater hose. I have looked into a heater hose 90 degree fitting but it won't work as I don't have the space up front as it would hit my alternator and would get cut up by my fan since this is in a tiny s10 v8 swap its cramped enough. I want to use my fuel rail with the -6 AN fitting sizes but I can't seem to find anything on summit and I am sure something must exist out there I can use to reroute this to go by the heater hose. Can anyone offer suggestion? Thanks
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree that I could flip the rail but the problem is I have no room at the firewall and the fuel line connection would be right through my spark plug wires beside my distributor as I already thought of it and tried a mock up of it and for me at least having spark plug wires right by a connection is not a good thing at least for me. I might be a little crazy on that one but I know there are other ways to go about things but I am strapped for time and need to get it running and hopefully driving this week and going to get it to another garage to get some things needed done to it.

I can't move the heater hose to the other fitting as for one, different size, and it sticks straight up and I hardly have clearance under my hood towards the front part. I could look for a 90 degree type of fitting but I have no guarantee it would tighten up for the correct direction.

But thanks to what you guys suggested I just got an idea thanks to that fitting that 123 pugsy put up I could run two of those connected to each other and it would allow me to route my fuel rail straight out the front or maybe if I got a 45 degree angle fitting it would allow me enough to run it around the heater hose. I am eventually once I get some other needed things done to this truck, re route my fuel lines and things up front and eliminate as much rubber hose as possible hooking up to my fuel pressure regulator. I will look into a 45 degree fitting and see how it would work.

Thanks guys for your tips.
 

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You can run a T fitting in the middle of your fuel rail (towards the rear)and have the hard fuel line mounted on the firewall with a flexible line going to the fuel rail on the motor.

I would mount the regulatior right on the firewall(below the float level) so I can have a return line going to the tank. This will reduce the vibration the regulatior will see and allow you to place it in a area that is easy to adjust. Just run a flexible line off the firewall to the T.

OR
You can run a 30ish degree fitting and have the fuel line going over that brass plug then down the front of the block to the oil pan and back to the tank. Just relocate your coolant temp sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I plan on running a 45 degree fitting and if it clears and goes right direction then I will run a line down the front of my engine and then over to my regulator which is mounted on my inner fender. I run the return line already down from my regulator which is a Holley brand with the return feature and has worked wonders for me.
 

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As has been suggested by Imsport is to put the bypass hose connection where the brass plug is and the plug where the bypass hose was seems like the simplest approach unless there’s something dimensional that isn’t apparent in the pictures.

It looks like a 45 degree fitting would maintain a decent angle with the coolant hose.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I was going to say I looked up flaring tools for the AN fittings and wow there expensive and funds are super tight right now and I can't buy everything and one of those fittings should do the job as I only need a slight angle and I then can use that in any future changes if it should happen as the intake I am using is the only one with the weird third plug hole on the front area. If I used that and ever changed out to another intake then I would be back to square one again.

I want my fuel line to be universal to the point it does not matter what I have bolted on for intake wise it will hook up with little to any change. Doing heater hose fitting changes fixes is fine but I want to have my carb line be the right hookup for the rest of it time and it be adjustable and I have a few other AN fuel rails and they are all about the same length and two are ones with braided hose coming from the rear so there is no shorting that area and also on the front and I have never done flaring before and I have seen it done in videos and it looks easy but getting a good flare is not always easy depending on what tool your using.

The cheap stuff is about junk from what I have read and is not very good at best and the more expensive ones cost around $100 or more from what little bit I have seen and that is not in the budget at the moment. If I had a lot to use then sure I would go for it and try that route. I took piece of steel line and bent it at a 90 degree and have it coming out my rear fuel bowl and then another very short steel line piece coming out my front bowl.

Then a brass 3/8 T fitting to connect them together with a very short piece of fuel hose on the ends. This allows me to be a lot shorter and able to hook up a hose to my fuel rail but it goes by the heater hose and touches it so I wrapped the fuel hose with a bigger piece of rubber hose to help insulate it but doubt it will help much.

That is only to use for a few weeks to get my by and it running. I like my AN lines as they can be screwed apart if needing to take your carb off and disassembled to change jets or other things without having to work with the steel line flared fitting type of stuff that you have to always crank so tight just to get a seal. Until I get the other fitting in the mail which will be soon but I want to get an idea on what will work best as I will have to buy the other materials to hookup a better fuel line system in the front.

Thanks Ericnova72 and others for the links on the fittings and I will choose one of those to work with and see how it goes and what options for rerouting my hookup will be. Thanks to all.
 

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30 to 60 degree fitting find what you need with a angle finder.
30

45

60
Find another spot to mount the coolant temp sensor.
 

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What about a carb spacer? It’ll move the entire carburetor up a bit. I had to add a one-inch four hole spacer to my SBC 356 so it would clear. The manifold is an edelbrock Performer dual plane, TFS heads, lumpy cam, built for rock crawling. I did have to open up the hood for clearance and added a scoop to cover the hole, but I also wanted clean outside air instead of whatever is in the engine compartment.
 
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