Home made tools
21 - 40 of 68 Posts
Joined
·
7,138 Posts
In the day time as far as the DEA know it 's SAND BLASTER!! :mwink:powerrodsmike said:
At night when the moon is right its a still :drunk:
Fuels us & the race cars
Zoom Zoom Zoom
Originally it was a commercial pool filter
R :thumbup:
Joined
·
5 Posts
Here are a few of my home made tools.
The added piece on the square allows for a better foot on curved stuff, such as the radius on sq. tube.
The tramels are very handy. and radius can be 20' with a full length of tubing.
Wedges dogs and 7's. We all know wedges will move mountains with a few raps of the hammer.
Half clamps, VERY handy, tack and clamp. Never toss out a broken tool!!
Hope these help someone out.
Joe
The added piece on the square allows for a better foot on curved stuff, such as the radius on sq. tube.
The tramels are very handy. and radius can be 20' with a full length of tubing.
Wedges dogs and 7's. We all know wedges will move mountains with a few raps of the hammer.Half clamps, VERY handy, tack and clamp. Never toss out a broken tool!!
Hope these help someone out.
Joe
Attachments
Joined
·
7,138 Posts
do thse work with a table ?
![]()
R :thumbup:
R :thumbup:
Joined
·
6,032 Posts
It's fun to share. BUT- If I see my idea on a tool rack somewhere being produced and sold by 1rookie tool company we will have to share a little the other way though. hahahaaha. (that's why i don't share the GOOD stuff. just cant't trust everyone.)1Rookie said:
So what kind of car are you working on, 1Rookie?
some pics would be cool.
later, mikey
Geez dont worry about 1rookie tool company!!! For years I played (helped) others with theyre projects. a freind Nova SS 73, Chevelle 70 things like that, earlier in life I had a road runner 69 I paid 2500$ for a while It was mint and I was the second owner (wish I still had this one$$$) and a nova 73 that I took apart and drag raced a couples of years. Then I bought a house with no garage thats why I was helping others. Now we just got a new house and the condition was it had to have a garage. 21 by 28 by 10 ft high while building it I installed 2 air lines per wall at 4 ft high in the structure and all the electrical stuff. 220v for the compressor and another for the welder + one more just in case. Ill post pics as soon I get some. The toys are a 95 mustang GT a Harley Road King 2003 and a my wife has a 2005 Sporster. But as soon i install a 4 post lift I'll find a project to play with. I need the lift bcaus I dont want to lose parking space for the stang and hogs.
Lots of neat stuff here, Most is a bit dated (early 60,s) but some useful plans anyway.
www.machinebuilders.net/1_viewport.asp
www.machinebuilders.net/1_viewport.asp
Joined
·
5 Posts
Rob,
Yup, they sure do. But can be used any place metal. The "C" clamp one has been in any and all positions.
A lot of folks forget that you can do a lot of tacking of these or anything else to use for alignment, clamping, pushing or pulling, then just clean up the tacks when done :thumbup: .
Joe
Yup, they sure do. But can be used any place metal.
The "C" clamp one has been in any and all positions.A lot of folks forget that you can do a lot of tacking of these or anything else to use for alignment, clamping, pushing or pulling, then just clean up the tacks when done :thumbup: .
Joe
Joined
·
6,032 Posts
Is that the remnants of the leaf blower in the back under the gas bottle?, with the tall handle?aminga said:
mikey
Yup. The angled uprights form the frame to hold the gas bottle. A chain keeps it from falling out the back. SO really it's only the handle and wheels I used. I've since cut the handle and pushed it more upright so it will take less space in the garage when I store it. I think when I get time I'll add a junction box to the frame. The firepower welder has a short cord. I can put a longer extension cord on the cart and push it around.powerrodsmike said:
Another item, no picutres is a moveable stand for my chopsaw so I can roll it out in the center of the garage and not burn a hole in the wall (again).
Alan.
I got a great one...
You take an ordinary 4" extension for your 3/8" ratchet, then get an old (or new) shock bushing and stretch it over the big end of the extension. Viola! It's a useful tool for all those bolts that are too tight to spin by hand and too loose to use a ratchet on. (you know, like every bolt you ever turned.)
Try this, you'll love it.
You take an ordinary 4" extension for your 3/8" ratchet, then get an old (or new) shock bushing and stretch it over the big end of the extension. Viola! It's a useful tool for all those bolts that are too tight to spin by hand and too loose to use a ratchet on. (you know, like every bolt you ever turned.)
Try this, you'll love it.
Joined
·
419 Posts
here we go i made this, it has no purpose, but it looks aggressive
Attachments
Joined
·
49 Posts
No pics of this one but I made a cylinder puller last summer when I rebuilt the engine on my Ferguson tractor. I needed to pull the cylinder sleeves from the engine block. Three of the four were the original 1951 sleeves. I used a piece of 3/8" X 2" flat stock a few nuts and some 3/4" all thread to make the tool. Cost about $15 to make but I had the sleeves out in about 20 minutes with no problems.
I cut the flat stock into two pieces, one just as big as the bottom of the cyclinder sleeve, rounded to match the diameter of the sleeve, with the outer edges ground down about 3/16" to center it into the bottom of the sleeve. The other piece was about 2 inches wider than the top of the cylinder sleeve. I drilled a hole through the center of both pieces to run the all thread though, and welded a nut on the bottom piece for the all thread.
I used two pieces of 1" square tube to rest the top piece on when pulling a sleeve, along with an old roller bearing from a lawn mower pulley and another nut to apply pressure. The bottom piece would be centered on the bottom of the sleeve, all thread threaded onto it. The top piece would slide down over the all thread and rest on the pieces of square tube. The roller bearing went over the all thread and then the top nut. Take a wrench to the top nut and start to tighten, and the sleeve would be pulled from the block.
This isn't much use on a modern engine, except maybe a diesel with cylinder sleeves. It did work very nicely and saved a lot of frustration.
-Joe
I cut the flat stock into two pieces, one just as big as the bottom of the cyclinder sleeve, rounded to match the diameter of the sleeve, with the outer edges ground down about 3/16" to center it into the bottom of the sleeve. The other piece was about 2 inches wider than the top of the cylinder sleeve. I drilled a hole through the center of both pieces to run the all thread though, and welded a nut on the bottom piece for the all thread.
I used two pieces of 1" square tube to rest the top piece on when pulling a sleeve, along with an old roller bearing from a lawn mower pulley and another nut to apply pressure. The bottom piece would be centered on the bottom of the sleeve, all thread threaded onto it. The top piece would slide down over the all thread and rest on the pieces of square tube. The roller bearing went over the all thread and then the top nut. Take a wrench to the top nut and start to tighten, and the sleeve would be pulled from the block.
This isn't much use on a modern engine, except maybe a diesel with cylinder sleeves. It did work very nicely and saved a lot of frustration.
-Joe
Made other things, but this just happens to be on this pc. Made this years ago, when steel was cheaper. Didn't care for the store bought cheapie hoists. Can pull a motor/trans combo from front or side. Plenty of height and no trouble getting under lower vehicles. Stores in 3 pieces.
Attachments
21 - 40 of 68 Posts
