Hot Rod Forum banner

Home made tools

68492 Views 67 Replies 35 Participants Last post by  Oldguy48
Home made tools!

Any of you guys make some of your own tools.
Homade blast cabinet for example or anything like that?
Something you had to modify to work better etc.
61 - 68 of 68 Posts
LOL, if that doesn't make you feel good. Sollution to a problem, done deal. :thumbup:

Maybe this should be a new thread, but it does overlap here.

Seal drivers - and one that I need. I'm passing this by the knowledgeable folk to get their opinion on whether this will work.

On my DD, an F350 pickup, I need to replace one of the rear hub seals. It's a big seal at ~3.9" in diameter, but really doesn't have a very wide cross section so is kind of fragile for my usual way with a BF hammer and a piece of hard wood. What I want to do is to use a hole saw and cut a 4" or 4-1/4 disc out of 4/4 oak (yes, I do have some big hole saws) along with a possibly second one glued with the grain 90* from the first as a backer. Then add a piece of 1/4"steel as an additional backer. Next using a piece of 1/2" all thread and a piece of steel on the far side, draw that seal into place. Will this work or should I just continue with my BFH and a wood block.

The seal is the easy part. There is a new bearing going behind that seal - and about every bearing race driver set I've seen are too small by a good half - three quarters inch. Any suggestions for that beside that, again, my BFH and a drift? Our refrigerator isn't cold enough and I don't have access to a lathe and I can't heat the hub that much (wives and their stoves are sacred) :sweat:

Dave W
See less See more
No bites - amazing. Oh well, I just went ahead and made up a couple tools and they work.

The bearing race (cup, or whatever you might call it) driver is a simple piece of 1/2" T6061 aluminum which I band sawed to an approximate dimension then filed to fit. It ended up a bit cruder then I really like, but it does work as I was able to put the old one back in place almost without effort.

The seal driver is a little more complicated (and that seal is over 2X the price of the bearing :eek: ). A screw up here can get expensive. I found an odd thickness piece of oak in my stash about 1-3/16" thick and used my circle cutter as my hole saws go from 4 to 5 inches. That circle cutter was used to make a relief for the raised portion of the seal as well and Forstner bits were used to drill the 1/2" center hole and then cut a 2" relief for the reinforcing washer. I then cut a piece of 1/4x1-1/2 bar stock and drilled for the center hole and for the attaching bolts to the hub. This contraption is then operated with a piece of 1/2" all thread. In trying it, the old removed seal was drawn back into place slickern' ...... (well you know the rest). That is a single piece of oak, but cut from both sides - and yep, the cutter tool bit did get hot!!

I have no clue how much I saved by doing this, but what I used was all stuff out of my "extras" and maybe worth $4-5 bucks.

Now, all I have to do is wait for my parts :D
Dave W
See less See more
We found a coupling for plastic pipe that is just the right size for driving the axle seals. We set a block of wood on it, then drive it home with a mallet


See less See more
both of those bearing tools are great ideas! thanks for posting
Oil Circulator

Didn't wanna leave the garage on a cold rainy day to buy a stupid $10 oil circulator. Lopped the top off an old distributor, cross-hatched the top real quick with the angle grinder, and ground off the bottom gear. Fits like it was made to(oh yeah, it was :D ), works like a champ. Think I got that out of an old Haynes manual. Laziness is a big contributor to inventiveness, that's for sure! :D
Here's a couple of pics of an air dryer we built for our air compressor system. We were getting a lot of moisture in our air tank. And enough moisture in the compressed air that a sandblaster was just about useless becaus it would clog up. And we have hopes of spraying some paint eventually. So we got a couple of A/C condensers from the "U-Pull-It, built a rack to hold them, and placed a box fan behind each one. The copper tubing connects the compressor to the condensers, and acts as a "Pre-Cooler" because the air discharge from the compressor gets really HOT. Also added a solenoid valve to isolate the air pressure from the piping system when the compressor circuit is de-energized. The moisture ends up in the small cylinder between the air reservoir tanks, and has a drain valve to empty it out. We haven't used it much yet, but so far it seems to work pretty well.


See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 2
61 - 68 of 68 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.