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I'm surprised nobody mentioned deck height and head gasket thickness yet. I don't have the experience to explain it right but understand the basic concept and trust what these guys on here say. They talk about it in the product description on that link.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
 

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You'll need rocker arm studs and guideplates if those haven't already been figured in, but that kit covers all the rest of the things for getting the head and intake on the engine. You'll need exhaust gaskets too, so maybe that offsets some of the header price since they include gaskets.

As far as traction, a low profile 18" tire like that is never going to hook, even if it was 4" wider it wouldn't matter. Tire compound is all wrong for traction, and it has no sidewall height to act as a shock absorber between the wheel and the tire face when the power hits.

A drag radial would help if there is one made for that size rim, but generally a good Mickey Thompson, Hoosier, M&H, or Nitto Drag Radial works best when they are 15" rim diameter with a taller sidewall.

How the rear suspension is set-up can help a lot...what have you done as far as suspension modifications??

It is going to help you going to a bigger head and intake, to kill off some of the too much low end torque you have from the TBI heads and trade it for upper rpm power....so that is a plus.

I've bought a couple sets of those Ebay headers, quality is very good, better than most current American manufacturers IMO.
 

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[YOUTUBE[/YOUTUBE]
It doesn’t have the throttle body unit on it anymore. It’s a carburetor now.

Well in that case if it has a carb then either somebody put on a carb intake, or modified the TBI intake with an adapter or machined a TBI intake to accept a carb so that it bolts to the TBI heads

There my be others but ProComp and Professional Products make an intake with an adapter on those center 4 bolts that depending on how you orient the adapter will fit to the older 90 degrees to the intake face of the head or the TBI head of 72 degrees to the intake face of the head. The 90 degree angle of bolt to machined intake face of the head is the production pattern from 1955 through 1986. It is also the common pattern used on aftermarket heads of which many aftermarket heads are also drilled and tapped for the so called Vortec pattern of 4 bolts per head at 45 degrees to the intake face of the head. The 72 degree 2 center bolts of the 6 bolt pattern on each head is not found outside of GM production for 1986 through 1995 for all TBI heads and most but not all TPI heads. There are some TPI heads that use the original 1955-1986 pattern (angle actually).

Of the intakes I mentioned that use the adapter my preference is the Professional Products Typhoon, it'll give an Edlebrock Performer RPM a damn good run. But if you go to aftermarket heads a very wide world is open to you.

Actually you can build a pretty decent LO5 motor with TBI heads a Typhoon intake and a 650 Edlebrock or Holley with a better cam like a Comp XE262H. The shorter ramps of the XE series and their competitors like the Lunati Voodoo help build cylinder pressure against today's compression ratio limits. Same goes if you're able to build the engine with a factory style roller cam, you want to get the ramps between .050 and whatever passes for zero as short as you can.

One of the beasts I built a few years ago is pretty much that formula. It is LO5 powered S10 with stock 191 heads, a Typhoon intake, a 650 Edlebrock Performer AFB carb, MSD ignition, short headers into a 3 inch exhaust. The guy in the other lane needs to be on the top of his game or he sees tail lights. It's a lot quicker than I ever thought it would be when that build got spec'ed, I really was opposed to the head selection but cash talks so I shut up and in the end really surprised.

Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Havent done any suspension mods. All I know is it came from the factory with F41 suspension and has these very very thick front and rear sway bars from what I read it was Z28 suspension a upgraded more stiff suspension option you could’ve chosen back then
 

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F41 is Chevy's build code for performance suspension/handling package on any model, on the G-body Cutlass like you have it would be the same or nearly the same as what is on the same generation Monte Carlo SS.

Traction mods to the rear suspension consist of adjustable upper control arms, Anti-hop bars(or some other traction type bar set like Summit/Southside Machine lift bars, Lakewood Lift bars, UMI bars), tubular lower control arms, urethane suspension bushings, different rear springs, adjustable rear shocks or at least a good rear gas charged shock.

The stock rear arms and bushings are not very good at planting power.

I realize you may not want to change from the 18" wheels you have....the right rear suspension modifications can help even what you have a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Well that’s something I’d have too look into on down the line after I get everything done to the engine and body. What do you think about bogies LO5 build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Yea now that I re read what he wrote it is pretty much the same except two different cars he has a better intake and carb. I’d say I’m pretty much maxed out. Without the heads.
 

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Do you know how much power that S10 was making?
That engine was never dyno'ed but the truck made a couple, three quarter mile runs so using the et and weight calculator that says about 280 hp. Torque was its big advantage it pulled real hard out of the hole, you shift about 4700 as it runs out power gains on the top end just levels off doesn't fall away. It is a lot quicker on carburetor than factory EFI with that cam which tells you the head and cam flow better than the TBI with custom PROM. The head is more responsive to duration than lift changes not that improving on the factory not quite .4 inch doesn't help but expecting gains at .5 inch is useless. 1.6 rockers on the intake help kick the lift rate faster as well as more total but faster is the issue to aim on, so they are useful on a more moderate cam as that lets it breath more mixture sooner in the lift curve which is helpful on these ports, so is back cutting the intake as this improves low lift flow. Those heads are certainly not race items but really aren't too trashy for day to day use and they do respond to tricks that improve low lift flow. But they do quit on the top end and there isn't really anything that can improve that much.



Bogie
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Gotcha. It’s the same with my car it’s got loads of torque and the take off is very strong but that top end is what kills it.
 

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Eric what would be a good size tire to get with those drag radials
What rim size do you have or are you planning to use second set of rear rims with a Drag Radial??

Is this going to have to deal with wet weather?? (Some of the Drag Radials have a very minimal tread groove pattern).

Tire wear...is this a daily driver and you expect some reasonable tire wear life?? Some of the drag radials driven daily will be lucky to last 2500 miles....and that's if you rarely really hit them hard or burnout with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
No it’s not a daily driver mainly just a toy and drive to the corner store or grocery store things like that. Won’t really see wet weather either. I’m debating on keeping the 18s or just getting some 15” cutlass rallies as they’re plentiful where I live.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Meant to tell you also I gotta chance to do a little run with my bro and his challenger. I got em good off the take off then he end up running me down at the end and I couldn’t catch em my tach gauge was basically stuck at 4500 wasn’t accelerating anymore so I pretty much lost that
 

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For a stock 15" x 7" Rally wheel, the 255/60-15 or 275/60-15 Mickey Thompson E.T. Street SS radial. The 255 is the better fit, the 275 really needs to be on an 8"+ wide rim to work well.
They have a 275/40-18, it needs a 8.5" minimum rim width and is recommended for a 9-10" rim

Hoosier D.O.T. Drag Radial 235/60-15, it is near the same width as the MT 255 but it is shorter in height which would make your rear gear seem a little steeper.
Hoosier does make a 245/40-18 if you wanted to keep the rims you have. On the street you wouldn't be able to tell a traction difference between these and a 15" diameter version, but at the track a 15" would be a noticeable bit better.

M&H Tires also has a 235 size, it has a bit more grooving than the Hoosier or Mickey T's and will last a little longer, compound not quite as soft but still works well.
M&H also has a 245/40-18

There is also Nitto and BF Goodrich Comp T/A Drag radials,
I have no experience personally with either...they are harder and longer wearing but don't hook quite as well. More streetable for some daily drive-around use, and if caught out in the rain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Hmmm quite a few options too choose from that’s good too know. I’m honestly more leanient towards keeping my rims but I’m still undecided as it’s the last on my list after everything else is done so I’ll weigh my options on that. I also wanted to mention that I’m fairly handy with cars I’m not a master mechanic but I do know a thing or two. Would the head swap and everything be something that’s not extremely difficult or would it be something that I should let a professional do. If so is that something that’s usually pricey to get done. I have an estimate from someone I just want to get some opinions to see if it’s too high or too low
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
I forgot to mention while I was looking around at the suspension I noticed that the previous owner has what we call in Georgia “screwups” in between the coil spring my guess is it was there to make the car sit higher. Is that something that could be affecting my traction suspension wise https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60837/10002/-1 That’s pretty much what it is
 
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