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hi whats up guys me and my friend are getting into drag racing we are gonna run street class, in this class there are weight restrictions and a maximum CID of 360, we are gonna run a 1977 firebird, we have already lightened the car as much as possible and installed a roll cage, we are now about to build the engine we already have all the parts, weve bought on a budget mostly on ebay and buying from friends, see what you guys think about our engine setup, early 70's block 2 bolt truck block, hot tanked, magnafluxed and bored .040, crankshaft is a scat forged peice, rods are also forged light weight, pistons are speed pro hypereutectic with .125 dome, (rotating assembly has been balanced) camshaft is a crane saturday night special adv dur 294 degrees intake 300 degrees exhaust 502/516 hyd flat tappet, crane lifters, comp cams hardened pushrods guideplates and comp 1.6 roller rockers, the cylinder heads are dart iron eagle 200cc intake runners, 2.02/1.60 valves 72 cc combustion chamber, 3 angle valve job, victor Jr intake, with a 750 holley HP carb, we havent decided on the ignition system yet but more than likely will be MSD, exhaust will be big tube, long tube headers, with just turn outs (so open exhaust) we will be running an electric water pump. electric fan, and an electric fuel pump, and no power steering, we will be running 110 octane fuel, as for the rest of the drivetrain we have a TCI powerglide with trans brake dont have a converter yet probably gona have one made because the weight of the car probably around a 2,800 stall, rear end is a 9 inch ford full spool 31 spline axles and a 4.88 gear, sorry about the long drawn out info but its need to give me an adequet assesment of our car, what kind of power can we expect from the engine, and what kind of times do you think we might see on a 1/8th mile strip, thanks guys
 

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With that cam the stall should be fine.

However, if this is a race car you are not putting near enough cam and compression in it. Another thing is that with all those nice parts, I would get a decent set of pistons. You can get nice forged wiescos on ebay for about $400. Those hypers are okay for the street, but anything that you are going to beat on regularly I would get something better.

I would go with a solid flat tappet cam in the 250-260 duration at .050 with 106 lsa and get CR up over 12:1. 13.5 will make good power with a fat cam. With that cam move up to a 4000-4500 RPM stall. I would bet that these small changes would get you a second or more in the 1/4.

If you are building a race car, build a race car. The combination you have lined out would idle around town all day long. Just my .02......

Chris
 

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well just remember you always have to start at the bottom, then work up. how fast do you want to go?

if you want to get serious you a need bigger cam and a solid or roller.
but that sounds like it is vary good just need bigger stall, and a bigger cam one that will let you get 8000 rpm. if you go with bigger cam then you will want more compretion. So look at angle milling your heads and intake to get more (you want a good 200 pounds).
like everyone said you need to make a choice street or drag. if you chose drag then be prepared to have it take just as much time as a women, i mean work all week and in the evenings work on the car to get it ready for the weekend. (when you run fast parts break) if you want a drag car then you need more and a little NOS!

just think if you want to run say 10s (just a number) then build it to run 9s or 8s and you will run 10s. or it will blow(make it or break it)

and also it should run the way you have it low 13s high 12s in the 1\4 depending on altitude. what dose everyone else say?
 

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wind & fire = guides to power
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I think it is to diffucult to say being the you "lightened the car as much as possible". How much is that?

As far as parts, you need bigger stuff.

Compression
12.5:1

& Cam
550" solid 104-106 lobe sep

& Converter
3500 smallest diameter


but what you have will be great to learn with. and fun too!
 
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