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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I currently have a 1969 010 block 350 2 bolt main, I have had it bored .30, standard pistons, custom delta cam ( not sure of specs ill check) stock sbc crank, eldbrock rpm air gap intake manifold, holly 650 street avenger carb, stock ignition, holly red fuel pump, vortec heads casting # 062, eldebrock shorty headers, th350 tranny, b&m hole shoot 3000 stall converter, rear end is stock with a spool and 373s.flowmaster super 10s 2.5...set goal was too be around 400-450


have any tips or what I can change around too get more power out of it? now im assuming id be a good ill street cruiser just open too ideas. nothing crazy ill save that for net year im going too do big block...I did however consider switching heads too dart aluminum heads 64cc chamber and 180cc intake runner what about having them ported & polished?


video of the car running now


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=texjC6G4ZyA


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSCQQteLV6I
 

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put on proper headers first.The carb you have wont flow enough air to get you much past 400 hp. Let us know the cam specs as Vortec heads need a big split in duration if totally stock. Ill guess you are likely around 350 hp atm
 

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Good headers like Vinnie said is a great start a 750 DP is another good step for full throttle operation , anti pump ups at 0.002 or 0.000 lash, a better flowing high rise 360 plenum intake is a good step if properly matched to cam and heads, I see your running a 3000 stall converter so that means your torque peek is at 3000 rpm or a little higher if your torque peek is lower then the converter stall is your losing power to the wheels and the converter is miss matched to your build, you want it to flash into the meaty part of your torque curve ! Your intake is designed as a low rise 180 square bore that gives more off idle bottom end response and falls off in its mid range so the 3000 stall probably isn't getting enough torque to even reach its designed stall !! We need cam specs to see if the cam is for bottom to mid range power and matches the intakes designed rpm range to tell if your engine is miss matched in its design ! Your headers are slow flow suitable for cruising with limited scavenging , the same with your intake its bottom end and low mid range designed for street off idle response, your converter is mid range and a little higher designed, your compression is unknown without knowing deck , gasket, piston or head cc, plus some standard replacement pistons set lower in the bores then others so you may have even less compression then you think. Your street avenger is designed also for off idle responce and smooth transition into its secondarys with limited performance capability again a good cruising and off idle response design (matched well to the intake and headers you installed), Your final drive ratio with the 3.73 s we can't figure out without rear tire diameters:confused: Your stock ignition is also designed for off idle cruising and response !!

It boils down to you can't mix a bottom end intake , a top end large duration cam (That we don't know about yet, etc if you mix match bottom end, mid range and top end parts they all fight each other and cant make peak power at their designed RPM range!

My conservative guess not knowing the cam would be your HP is around 275 at the flywheel about 200 at the rear wheelsJ ust an opinion:( I would like to see a dyno run on that?

And my opinion means nothing !

Jester (Chris)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A 2 valve relief piston should get you about 10.5-1 compression which will get you a lot closer.
could you explain more about a 2 valve? still learning this stuff well at least trying too at least. I tried too look and see if they had them on summit racing but couldn't come up with anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good headers like Vinnie said is a great start a 750 DP is another good step for full throttle operation , anti pump ups at 0.002 or 0.000 lash, a better flowing high rise 360 plenum intake is a good step if properly matched to cam and heads, I see your running a 3000 stall converter so that means your torque peek is at 3000 rpm or a little higher if your torque peek is lower then the converter stall is your losing power to the wheels and the converter is miss matched to your build, you want it to flash into the meaty part of your torque curve ! Your intake is designed as a low rise 180 square bore that gives more off idle bottom end response and falls off in its mid range so the 3000 stall probably isn't getting enough torque to even reach its designed stall !! We need cam specs to see if the cam is for bottom to mid range power and matches the intakes designed rpm range to tell if your engine is miss matched in its design ! Your headers are slow flow suitable for cruising with limited scavenging , the same with your intake its bottom end and low mid range designed for street off idle response, your converter is mid range and a little higher designed, your compression is unknown without knowing deck , gasket, piston or head cc, plus some standard replacement pistons set lower in the bores then others so you may have even less compression then you think. Your street avenger is designed also for off idle responce and smooth transition into its secondarys with limited performance capability again a good cruising and off idle response design (matched well to the intake and headers you installed), Your final drive ratio with the 3.73 s we can't figure out without rear tire diameters:confused: Your stock ignition is also designed for off idle cruising and response !!

It boils down to you can't mix a bottom end intake , a top end large duration cam (That we don't know about yet, etc if you mix match bottom end, mid range and top end parts they all fight each other and cant make peak power at their designed RPM range!

My conservative guess not knowing the cam would be your HP is around 275 at the flywheel about 200 at the rear wheelsJ ust an opinion:( I would like to see a dyno run on that?

And my opinion means nothing !

Jester (Chris)
no no I appreciate ur opinion im still learning honestly. so do you think adding flowtech long tube headers, holly 750 dp, a sbc shootout high rise intake manifold would be a good step? and the vortec heads are stock I read stock are around 64cc don't hold me too that. but I also found dart aluminum heads 72cc & 200cc cam specs are still unknown im trying too grab that info still.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
put on proper headers first.The carb you have wont flow enough air to get you much past 400 hp. Let us know the cam specs as Vortec heads need a big split in duration if totally stock. Ill guess you are likely around 350 hp atm


im still learning honestly. so do you think adding flowtech long tube headers, holly 750 dp, a sbc shootout high rise intake manifold would be a good step? and the vortec heads are stock I read stock are around 64cc don't hold me too that. but I also found dart aluminum heads 72cc & 200cc cam specs are still unknown im trying too grab that info still.
 

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long tube headers work better. Give us the headers specs please?

and waiting on cam specs. Let us know what the finished product should be,we will help you get there
 

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Do you have basic fabrication skills and a mig welder? Would be cheaper to leave it how it is and buy a $200 GT45 ebay turbo and either convert your carb yourself or buy a "boost ready" carb. Even at 5-6lbs of boost you'd be miles ahead power wise. It's really simple these days, I put my turbo kit together for peanuts in a few hours in my garage with simple tools and poor welding skills. My $220 long block went 8's in the 1/4 with my dinky homemade 2" mild steel turbo kit. Looks like you have alot of room in that G-body as well! Cut those fenders out and get to work!

Leaving your current setup and adding a simple 100 hp shot of Nitrous is also a very cheap and easy option.

Good luck!
 

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Right now there is nothing to help you with until you give out the specs of the camshaft. You say the block is bored .030 but you have standard pistons. Are the pistons .030 flat tops with 2 or 4 valve reliefs. Unless the valve guide bosses have been cut down on the vortecs you cannot run a camshaft with more than .450-.470 lift. It varies with each set of heads. If you have the cash I would purchase a set of Pro-Filer heads bare for $950. I would get the 195 intake ports in case you build a 383 c.i. in the near future. You have your machinist install the valves and springs to match your new camshaft. SBC 23 Degree Cylinder Heads This Howards camshaft kit would go with the heads. Howards Cams Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft and Lifter Kits CL112141-10 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing Any of these intake manifolds Weiand Speed Warrior Intake Manifolds 8501 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing or Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifolds 7101 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
long tube headers work better. Give us the headers specs please?

and waiting on cam specs. Let us know what the finished product should be,we will help you get there

the cam is a comp cam 280h lift .490 duration 280 flow tech headers tube size is 1.625 is all I see on the website under specs. vortec heads have had no work done too them just been cleaned up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you have basic fabrication skills and a mig welder? Would be cheaper to leave it how it is and buy a $200 GT45 ebay turbo and either convert your carb yourself or buy a "boost ready" carb. Even at 5-6lbs of boost you'd be miles ahead power wise. It's really simple these days, I put my turbo kit together for peanuts in a few hours in my garage with simple tools and poor welding skills. My $220 long block went 8's in the 1/4 with my dinky homemade 2" mild steel turbo kit. Looks like you have alot of room in that G-body as well! Cut those fenders out and get to work!

Leaving your current setup and adding a simple 100 hp shot of Nitrous is also a very cheap and easy option.

Good luck!

i do not have any of those skills last I welded was in m marine class in high school 4 years ago haha. I always heard ebay turbos are something too stay away from, how long has it lasted? this car is more of a street weekend driver lol and you think running a small shot like 50-75hp of nos would be ok due to the fact I don't have forged internals ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Right now there is nothing to help you with until you give out the specs of the camshaft. You say the block is bored .030 but you have standard pistons. Are the pistons .030 flat tops with 2 or 4 valve reliefs. Unless the valve guide bosses have been cut down on the vortecs you cannot run a camshaft with more than .450-.470 lift. It varies with each set of heads. If you have the cash I would purchase a set of Pro-Filer heads bare for $950. I would get the 195 intake ports in case you build a 383 c.i. in the near future. You have your machinist install the valves and springs to match your new camshaft. SBC 23 Degree Cylinder Heads This Howards camshaft kit would go with the heads. Howards Cams Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft and Lifter Kits CL112141-10 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing Any of these intake manifolds Weiand Speed Warrior Intake Manifolds 8501 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing or Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifolds 7101 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing


the cam is a comp cam 280h jegs website said .490 lift and duration says 280 degrees. yeah block is .30 over with flat top .30 pistons stock 350 crank it was a omplete rebuild kit that came with .30 over pistons and everything else included besides crank. vortec heads are stock just been cleaned up
 

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i do not have any of those skills last I welded was in m marine class in high school 4 years ago haha. I always heard ebay turbos are something too stay away from, how long has it lasted? this car is more of a street weekend driver lol and you think running a small shot like 50-75hp of nos would be ok due to the fact I don't have forged internals ?
Honestly it would still be cheaper if you had to go out and purchase a mig welder and re-learn. But I get not everyone has the time. China manufacturing has come a long way. Most of the turbo copies being sold now work very well. The gt45 clone I mentioned has one of the best track records out there. It's big/heavy and an older wheel design, but very reliable...and super cheap! A great brand name turbo for a SB can be had for roughly $650.

Yes, a 50-75 Hp shot is perfectly fine with the cast OEM parts. This assumes you have a good tune and dont' run into any detonation though. I'd want a WB02 at least to ensure your AFR's are in check and make sure to run a cooler heat range plug and back the timing off 1-2* from your "NA" settings.
 
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