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I'm rebuilding a chevy 261. We got the crank back in and made sure everything had the right clearences. How hard should it be for the crank to spin? It's definetly harder than when I took the crank out. I know the culprit is the rear oil seal. I'm afriad that if I continue and eventually get the engine in the car it won't turn over.

I read on a defferent post that these seals have to be installed so that the seams are offset from the seams of the block and cap. If I didn't do this might it be too tight?

If someone could help I would be grateful; this project has dragged on way to long.
 

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Remove the rear seal, lube the bearings and caps, and torque in sequence. As you torque though the sequence, turn the crankshaft. It should always turn freely. If it doesn't, there's a problem with either clearance, cranksaft straightness or main bearing alignment.

Be certain to at least use plastiguage to check your bearing clearance.

I'll assume you have a rope type seal, and yes, they really do drag on the crankshaft, so after you've verified clearances, and no binding, then if the seal causes the drag, don't sweat it.

Brian
 

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With just the crank in, no pistons etc, you should be able to turn it easilly with your hand.

Once the short block is all together, you should be able to turn it with a Johnson bar and socket.

Like NAIRb said, check your clearances.
 
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