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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm using aluminum corvette suspension parts on my 55.1 build and would like to clean the parts of grease and crud.
Not looking to make them look like chrome or any of that. As I go threw them replacing bushing , wheel bearing , etc.
I have not found a good technic as of yet and am wondering what some of you guys do to clean up your aluminum parts?
Thanks
 

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Vapor blasting makes any aluminum or steel part look like new. I bought a set of plans off a gentleman on how to build one out of an old harbor freight blasting cabinet. The plans cost me 99 bucks and after it’s said and done the way I built it will be in upwards of 900 dollars but worth it. He does a great job explains every step and his tech support has been great too. I was getting quotes to do my corvette suspension for my 39 for 75 dollars an hour. Still tweaking a few things but what I have started has come out amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I spray acid wheel cleaner on them at the body shop I work at if I'm installing used parts and it makes them look like new.

Sent from my SM-F926U using Tapatalk
I spray acid wheel cleaner on them at the body shop I work at if I'm installing used parts and it makes them look like new.

Sent from my SM-F926U using Tapatalk
Thanks for all the options which range from cabinets costing time and $$$ to acid wash sprays! I'll check out the acid wash and go from there!
Appreciate all the input guys!!!
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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IF this is a one or two time deal my engine shop will clean stuff in the parts washers for the hourly price of $50 and toss the parts in with the other in house work. Might wanna call around locally and ask some questions.
 

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I watched part of the video and it seems to be the opposite. It is for painted wheels and damages exposed portions of aluminium where the paint has been scratch of by kerb rash...
 

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I watched part of the video and it seems to be the opposite. It is for painted wheels and damages exposed portions of aluminium where the paint has been scratch of by kerb rash...
I have seen some turn aluminum black. But the industrial stuff we use that comes from a detail supply Co. makes aluminum look like brand new. So obviously test in a small erea first.

Sent from my SM-F926U using Tapatalk
 

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Capt Mike
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JDarby

I've been using purple Power, O'Riley's for quite a while. Just spray it on with a squirt bottle, wait wash and repeat. Stay Upwind !!

The last two sets of C4 suspension that I rebuilt for myself also sanded off all of the Forging rough edges with a 4 inch right angle sander, an easy clean up. After I had all the parts Glass Beaded.

After assembly I coated with a an aluminum liquid sealer wit ha small brush.

Here's a few photos of the late C4 Suspension on my '37 Chevy Coupe build. Note I upgraded the front and rear Calipers with OEM C6 Calipers and Wilwood Rotors.

Michael..
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive design Gas Handwriting
Gas Nickel Rim Automotive exterior Auto part
Wood Outdoor shoe Sportswear Walking shoe Athletic shoe
Natural material Grey Bicycle part Silver Wood
Wood Rectangle Composite material Tints and shades Gas
Wood Gas Automotive tire Cylinder Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
JDarby

I've been using purple Power, O'Riley's for quite a while. Just spray it on with a squirt bottle, wait wash and repeat. Stay Upwind !!

The last two sets of C4 suspension that I rebuilt for myself also sanded off all of the Forging rough edges with a 4 inch right angle sander, an easy clean up. After I had all the parts Glass Beaded.

After assembly I coated with a an aluminum liquid sealer wit ha small brush.

Here's a few photos of the late C4 Suspension on my '37 Chevy Coupe build. Note I upgraded the front and rear Calipers with OEM C6 Calipers and Wilwood Rotors.

Michael.. View attachment 619854 View attachment 619855 View attachment 619856 View attachment 619857 View attachment 619859 View attachment 619860
CaptMike I can get on board with this! I have such limited space and building a cabinet as much as that would be nice I just do not have the room!!
This approach I can handle and I like the outcome! Check out Super Pro Bushings on your build, I have installed them on my C4 suspension and so far so good.
I have not actually run them but I like everything about them which includes Life time warrantee / customer service, which has been great!!!! Thanks so much for the photo's they speak volumes!!!
Curious are you replacing all your wheel bearing / rotors / calipers / pads / shoes cause I am and the options on the market are making me scratch my head! I do like the multiple caliper piston verses single! I do like the Willwood options but so many things to
JDarby

I've been using purple Power, O'Riley's for quite a while. Just spray it on with a squirt bottle, wait wash and repeat. Stay Upwind !!

The last two sets of C4 suspension that I rebuilt for myself also sanded off all of the Forging rough edges with a 4 inch right angle sander, an easy clean up. After I had all the parts Glass Beaded.

After assembly I coated with a an aluminum liquid sealer wit ha small brush.

Here's a few photos of the late C4 Suspension on my '37 Chevy Coupe build. Note I upgraded the front and rear Calipers with OEM C6 Calipers and Wilwood Rotors.

Michael.. View attachment 619854 View attachment 619855 View attachment 619856 View attachment 619857 View attachment 619859 View attachment 619860
JDarby

I've been using purple Power, O'Riley's for quite a while. Just spray it on with a squirt bottle, wait wash and repeat. Stay Upwind !!

The last two sets of C4 suspension that I rebuilt for myself also sanded off all of the Forging rough edges with a 4 inch right angle sander, an easy clean up. After I had all the parts Glass Beaded.

After assembly I coated with a an aluminum liquid sealer wit ha small brush.

Here's a few photos of the late C4 Suspension on my '37 Chevy Coupe build. Note I upgraded the front and rear Calipers with OEM C6 Calipers and Wilwood Rotors.

Michael.. View attachment 619854 View attachment 619855 View attachment 619856 View attachment 619857 View attachment 619859 View attachment 619860
JDarby

I've been using purple Power, O'Riley's for quite a while. Just spray it on with a squirt bottle, wait wash and repeat. Stay Upwind !!

The last two sets of C4 suspension that I rebuilt for myself also sanded off all of the Forging rough edges with a 4 inch right angle sander, an easy clean up. After I had all the parts Glass Beaded.

After assembly I coated with a an aluminum liquid sealer wit ha small brush.

Here's a few photos of the late C4 Suspension on my '37 Chevy Coupe build. Note I upgraded the front and rear Calipers with OEM C6 Calipers and Wilwood Rotors.

Michael.. View attachment 619854 View attachment 619855 View attachment 619856 View attachment 619857 View attachment 619859 View attachment 619860

I'll get some today and give it a go, thanks!
 

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Capt Mike
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265 Posts
JDarby


I typically go to an Auto Parts store of a Powder Coating Co. for Glass Beading parts,,, After I've cleaned them.

I Only use Energy Suspension Suspension Bushings ! Their parts are consistent plus near perfect fitment and longevity !! I've seen to many Horror Stories to change now,

I changed all the suspension re-built components in my C4 convertible in 1999 with Energy Sus, still no issues or binding. The aluminum parts remained pretty. However in my All Out '37 Chevy Coupe built I used Del-a-Lum front bushing kit for the upper and lower control arms. These have near Zero Static friction but they'll transfer a bit of more road noise etc,worth the few extra $$.

I also power sanded off all of the Forging seam and part numbers, another quick glass bead then a clear coat with an aluminum sealer. Was worth the 4 pr 5 hours of extra work...

Wheel Bearings, AC Delco Gold , Rock Auto. Fronts are ~ $170 ish Rears are ~ $90 ish. I drill out the front Spindles slightly for a US size and use Grade 8 bolts and Lock-Nuts, thinking that's 3/8th . Don't forget the Anti-Seize on all hardware and Flat Washers !!

Calipers, I use C6 Front Calipers on the Front sus with 17 inch rims. If you have 18 inch wheels you can use C6 Front Rotors but you'll should to use the early C4 ( '84 to '87) rear Spindles as they have a Shoe E-Brake. If you already have the late '88 up rear Spindles then you can adapt a Wilwood Mechanical Spot Calipers. C5 & C6 have the same bolt up dimensions, however the C6 calipers are a re-design and a little more metal here are there, no appreciable improvement...

New C5 or C6 Calipers are now hard to find, I bought two pair for $250 a pair NEW. Now that's the cost of a good rebuilt.

You can get the C4 to C5/C6 kits online, send me PM.. A reasonable cost & Absolutely worth every penny,

Rotors, The best buy price and quality is Wilwood, ie Rotor No: 160-14043-BK, Vented, Dimpled & Slotted,, ~ $100 to $120 each

Pads, Wilwood !!

Who's kit are you using for the rear C4 suspension ??

C4 install into the rear is pretty easy in comparison to the front.

We welded the '57 frame on a four rail frame table at ride height. we Fab'd all the mounting brackets for the front and rear,, the table made Fab so much easier..

Remember that the C4 Diffy is exactly centered on the frame as the two Half Shafts are the same length. So the Pinion is already offset !! So Set the Pinion Angle "0" Degrees as in a C4. You know that all C4's don't have a Trans cross member, so remember to Fab a very strong front Pinion support with a Poly Mount. DON'T bolt the Pinion Solid !!

Front Tri-5 C4 suspension is a bit of work, I've completed front and rear for a friend, In a Word,, *****in I used a '88 front C4 Engine Cradle,,, it's really a bolt on cross member with engine mounts etc. We didn't remove the front frame rails, this can be done and utilized the C4 complete suspension,shock mounts and C4 front spring which there are a large oem variety.

If you need more info or photos do let me know.

BTW, if your pushing over 450+ hp and drive "Spirted" you can install a 9 inch IRS center section as an alternate..

Michael...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
JDarby


I typically go to an Auto Parts store of a Powder Coating Co. for Glass Beading parts,,, After I've cleaned them.

I Only use Energy Suspension Suspension Bushings ! Their parts are consistent plus near perfect fitment and longevity !! I've seen to many Horror Stories to change now,

I changed all the suspension re-built components in my C4 convertible in 1999 with Energy Sus, still no issues or binding. The aluminum parts remained pretty. However in my All Out '37 Chevy Coupe built I used Del-a-Lum front bushing kit for the upper and lower control arms. These have near Zero Static friction but they'll transfer a bit of more road noise etc,worth the few extra $$.

I also power sanded off all of the Forging seam and part numbers, another quick glass bead then a clear coat with an aluminum sealer. Was worth the 4 pr 5 hours of extra work...

Wheel Bearings, AC Delco Gold , Rock Auto. Fronts are ~ $170 ish Rears are ~ $90 ish. I drill out the front Spindles slightly for a US size and use Grade 8 bolts and Lock-Nuts, thinking that's 3/8th . Don't forget the Anti-Seize on all hardware and Flat Washers !!

Calipers, I use C6 Front Calipers on the Front sus with 17 inch rims. If you have 18 inch wheels you can use C6 Front Rotors but you'll should to use the early C4 ( '84 to '87) rear Spindles as they have a Shoe E-Brake. If you already have the late '88 up rear Spindles then you can adapt a Wilwood Mechanical Spot Calipers. C5 & C6 have the same bolt up dimensions, however the C6 calipers are a re-design and a little more metal here are there, no appreciable improvement...

New C5 or C6 Calipers are now hard to find, I bought two pair for $250 a pair NEW. Now that's the cost of a good rebuilt.

You can get the C4 to C5/C6 kits online, send me PM.. A reasonable cost & Absolutely worth every penny,

Rotors, The best buy price and quality is Wilwood, ie Rotor No: 160-14043-BK, Vented, Dimpled & Slotted,, ~ $100 to $120 each

Pads, Wilwood !!

Who's kit are you using for the rear C4 suspension ??

C4 install into the rear is pretty easy in comparison to the front.

We welded the '57 frame on a four rail frame table at ride height. we Fab'd all the mounting brackets for the front and rear,, the table made Fab so much easier..

Remember that the C4 Diffy is exactly centered on the frame as the two Half Shafts are the same length. So the Pinion is already offset !! So Set the Pinion Angle "0" Degrees as in a C4. You know that all C4's don't have a Trans cross member, so remember to Fab a very strong front Pinion support with a Poly Mount. DON'T bolt the Pinion Solid !!

Front Tri-5 C4 suspension is a bit of work, I've completed front and rear for a friend, In a Word,, *****in I used a '88 front C4 Engine Cradle,,, it's really a bolt on cross member with engine mounts etc. We didn't remove the front frame rails, this can be done and utilized the C4 complete suspension,shock mounts and C4 front spring which there are a large oem variety.

If you need more info or photos do let me know.

BTW, if your pushing over 450+ hp and drive "Spirted" you can install a 9 inch IRS center section as an alternate..

Michael...
Thanks Michael! This is my first go around on this scale of a build and you info is very much appreciated!!

I am building a 55.1 GMC 1/2 short bed that I have owned for years and am using Flat Out Engineering's suspension kit for the front and rear.

Am in the process of rebuilding all my C4 parts bushings / bearings /calipers /rotors /etc.

I'll stay with the C4 rotor's all around, I do like the E-Brake on the rear! Not sure yet what size wheel/tire configuration I'm going to run.
Am also thinking hydroboost , just to eliminate the vacuum canister, clean up under the hood.

The Flat Out instructions show a Front mounted cross member with a poly mount for the batwing. I have ordered the kit but have not received it as of yet.
The instructions don't show the pinion to be mounted solid.

Rock Auto and Summit have been a great source for parts, but not all parts store's have been so good to me :(

The literature on the Super Pro bushings read so good to me I purchased them and have installed in all my suspension parts, including the diff!

The truck currently has a SB350 in it with a turbo 400. Not sure if that will be the case when Im done but the goal is to make a reliable / drivable fun truck
that I can tool around in comfort and style! AC is a must, I am in Texas and it get's hot!!

The pictures are a big help!!
 

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Capt Mike
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Your very welcome. Happy to pass on my knowledge and experience.

I had a '55 GMC for a long while, just stock with a 6 banger and 3 on the tree.

I know Don @ Flat Out Eng. , He's the best !! I gotten many parts from Don over the years. You'll be impressed with his kits esp the TIG welding.

Don built me a custom front cross member for my '37 Chevy Build, it's 2 inches narrower than stock. I needed the cross member narrower to fit my body and wheels so the tires don't rub the frame or fenders. My '37 isn't any oem parts, frame, suspension, running gear etc. The Frame Rails and Roll cage was Bent at Art Morrison Ent. in Fife WA, to our CAD drawings. The Body in a Superior Glass Works '37 Chevy Coupe Carbon Fiber race car body. So this project has been challenging. But She's a full rolling chassis will engine, trans, front & rear suspension, and etc. Everything fits and there wasn't any design changes, phew !!. Lots of Corvette parts besides suspension. But I didn't use a C4 Dana 44 Diffy, instead I designed in a Dutchman's 9 inch IRS alloy Diffy w a Strange 3rd member. That took some time. Know, never again !!

Just read the directions and You'll do well. I would recommend Tack in all parts then check fitment and Wheel / Tire clearances prior to finishing the welds,,, just in case. You can call or email me re your build,,,,, send me a pm and I'll send my contract info. Don's Diffy front mount is straight forward and very strong, no worries there.

Brakes, it would be better to install C5 or C6 front calipers, not much more $$ and a significant improvement for the fronts.

Just buy the rebuilt C4 calipers, the fronts AC Delco Gold HD are only $57 exchange, not worth the effort and esp getting a correct caliper kit parts the first time.....

Rotors, look into Wilwood. They have some C4 rotors and their significantly better than most and less $$. Their calipers are too $$ for me. Remember, the divers side and passenger side rotors are different !!, cooling vents.

Nay on a hydroboost .

I'm using a 6 inch power booster in my '56 Chevy with a Wilwood master cylinder and it's wonderful, "NO Vac Canister". More is a LSX $ 6 speed, excellent braking. Same setup n my '37, an '88 Vette Booster and Master, I can take and send you photos.

Which are you going to use for a master / booster location , under floorboards or under dash ??


Rock Auto $ Summit !!


Super Pro bushings, you did your research good !!

SB350 with a turbo 400, good selection. Either the Dana 36 or 44 diffy will hold up to that combo. The Dana 44 was used in manual trans C4's typ ratio was 3:08, My C4 (had her since 2000) has a GM performance ZZ4 with a hot cam and the Dana 44 has no issues. I did rebuild the diffy to 3:73 gears, very spirited !! So you'll be okay with a TH400. So if you wan a lower number go with a Dana 44, and that is the C4 HD unit...

AC, yet I get that. I recently moved form NW Oregon to Arkansas, my '56 Chevy is getting Vintage AC / Heat this winter. I've already mocked up the Vintage sys in my '37.

Texas, where abouts ??

Michael....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Your very welcome. Happy to pass on my knowledge and experience.

I had a '55 GMC for a long while, just stock with a 6 banger and 3 on the tree.

I know Don @ Flat Out Eng. , He's the best !! I gotten many parts from Don over the years. You'll be impressed with his kits esp the TIG welding.

Don built me a custom front cross member for my '37 Chevy Build, it's 2 inches narrower than stock. I needed the cross member narrower to fit my body and wheels so the tires don't rub the frame or fenders. My '37 isn't any oem parts, frame, suspension, running gear etc. The Frame Rails and Roll cage was Bent at Art Morrison Ent. in Fife WA, to our CAD drawings. The Body in a Superior Glass Works '37 Chevy Coupe Carbon Fiber race car body. So this project has been challenging. But She's a full rolling chassis will engine, trans, front & rear suspension, and etc. Everything fits and there wasn't any design changes, phew !!. Lots of Corvette parts besides suspension. But I didn't use a C4 Dana 44 Diffy, instead I designed in a Dutchman's 9 inch IRS alloy Diffy w a Strange 3rd member. That took some time. Know, never again !!

Just read the directions and You'll do well. I would recommend Tack in all parts then check fitment and Wheel / Tire clearances prior to finishing the welds,,, just in case. You can call or email me re your build,,,,, send me a pm and I'll send my contract info. Don's Diffy front mount is straight forward and very strong, no worries there.

Brakes, it would be better to install C5 or C6 front calipers, not much more $$ and a significant improvement for the fronts.

Just buy the rebuilt C4 calipers, the fronts AC Delco Gold HD are only $57 exchange, not worth the effort and esp getting a correct caliper kit parts the first time.....

Rotors, look into Wilwood. They have some C4 rotors and their significantly better than most and less $$. Their calipers are too $$ for me. Remember, the divers side and passenger side rotors are different !!, cooling vents.

Nay on a hydroboost .

I'm using a 6 inch power booster in my '56 Chevy with a Wilwood master cylinder and it's wonderful, "NO Vac Canister". More is a LSX $ 6 speed, excellent braking. Same setup n my '37, an '88 Vette Booster and Master, I can take and send you photos.

Which are you going to use for a master / booster location , under floorboards or under dash ??


Rock Auto $ Summit !!


Super Pro bushings, you did your research good !!

SB350 with a turbo 400, good selection. Either the Dana 36 or 44 diffy will hold up to that combo. The Dana 44 was used in manual trans C4's typ ratio was 3:08, My C4 (had her since 2000) has a GM performance ZZ4 with a hot cam and the Dana 44 has no issues. I did rebuild the diffy to 3:73 gears, very spirited !! So you'll be okay with a TH400. So if you wan a lower number go with a Dana 44, and that is the C4 HD unit...

AC, yet I get that. I recently moved form NW Oregon to Arkansas, my '56 Chevy is getting Vintage AC / Heat this winter. I've already mocked up the Vintage sys in my '37.

Texas, where abouts ??

Michael....
Don has been very good with sending me instruction before hand, I wanted to see if I thought I could handle the task before committing with the $.

Years ago I bolted a 76 GMC front clip on my 55.1 frame and never really was happy with the direction I was going so the project halted.
When I did that I also built a brake booster/ pedal set up from various junk yard parts. I really don't care for that and have not been able to find my original pedal set up.
I would prefer the master brake set up under the hood and not on the frame rail.

I like the idea of using C5 or C6 calipers up front, will have to research the $ , I don't have cores for them.
I didn't know the rotor difference drivers / pass so thanks for that info!

My Dana is a 44 :)
 
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