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What about the thickness of the sheetmetal vs the thickness of the urethane sheet? What would you suggest?

p.s. 35window, my grandson says that's Goldilock's quote.
 

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Pretty excited about this idea. Keep thinking about it one question I've come up with is, would it be something you could "wheel" as in use a urethane wheel on a track, like my old cast iron DeWalt RAW. Roll the wheel and adj. down roll again and so on. ??
 

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Art Deco said:
What about the thickness of the sheetmetal vs the thickness of the urethane sheet? What would you suggest?

p.s. 35window, my grandson says that's Goldilock's quote.

I did mine on .063 6061T6 Aluminum, but I would think that 20 Gauge CRS would work fine-

You are certainly correctamundo Art Deco-I'd better bone up on my Mother Goose!
 

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Nonhog said:
Pretty excited about this idea. Keep thinking about it one question I've come up with is, would it be something you could "wheel" as in use a urethane wheel on a track, like my old cast iron DeWalt RAW. Roll the wheel and adj. down roll again and so on. ??

There have been guys using an English Wheel with a Go Cart Slick (or a tipping wheel) mounted to emboss, and of course you have to consider the strength of the English Wheel versus the thickness of the material (and use a flat anvil), but it can (and has) been done with much success-

And, some have also used a Bead roller-
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Art Deco said:
What about the thickness of the sheetmetal vs the thickness of the urethane sheet? What would you suggest?
I used 24 gauge steel for the letters pressed into 20 gauge steel for the panel. 1/8" 90D polyurethane was what I had on hand and it worked fine. I also tried some 75D and 60D but the harder stuff made the impression more crisp.

I considered using a wheel but was concerned the localized pressure would warp the panel. It might have worked out ok, I just didn't try it.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Inky Ford said:
How did the "A" letters get embossed in backwards on the trunk when your blank has them the correct way?
The "A" got embossed backwards because the numb skull doing the work stuck it on backwards. :rolleyes: The actual piece in the trunk was a later iteration.

Tom
 

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That's a bummer.

I am a retired sign painter so when I see misspelled words, mixed fonts or backwards letters it's like fingernails on a chalkboard for me.

Cool idea though and otherwise well executed.
 

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Embossing

This is Good.
About five years ago I had a 64' FORD Econoline P/U.
Tail Gate was gone and I had a PEPSI COLA sign
with Raised (Embossed Leters). Curved It to Fit,
Welded, Smoothed and
WOW it looked Great. Then had to get into other
PEPSI stuff for the Truck.
Lots of Coments.
Bob
 

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thanks for posting this. i was thinking of doing the same think but with the emblems of the car. :)
 

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I use a similar process for making holsters and sheaths, that can be applied to dashboards and door panels using thermoplastic panels. The only difference is you would be using the plastic over the letters or emblem and lay a plate covered with a stiff foam over the plastic panel after carefully heating it with a heat gun. carefully press and the shape becomes a positive emboss in the plastic. This is how Kydex sheaths and pistol holsters are made. To do an impressed emboss the foam is put down and the emblem or letters are placed on the heated plastic and a plate layed on it/them and pressed. On a positive emblem in plastic like this remember to fill the backside with bondo for strength, so the letters are not crushed in like a dimple on a McDonalds soft drink lid... I'm going to try the metal setup on some signs... EXCELLENT Thread. I never thought of trying this with metal. I've done it with Leather as a kid working on his leathercraft merit badge in boy scouts, made knives and sheaths like I've outlined (always use a molded replica for the form), never once gave metal a thought... amazing... And I ran a punch press at one time while in college,,, DUH!
 

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Embossing

Dragon; You might try Vacuum.
Rather than using a Plate , Clamp a oversize Pc of plastic
to a Board with any shape. Place Text or Logos where you wish.
The plastic will need to be clamped all around to get somewhat of a seal. Use your shop vac, and a Heat gun. This works great.
I have made Deep buckets, Lids, Signs, and ETC.
For deep moldes, Wood is good, but you need to Have a reliese agent.
Mix Silicone Caulk with Mineral Spirits in a 50-50 mix. Paint with a brush.
This will Seal and smoothe. It will dry, but requires a few coats.
To remove the part, apply a little heat and reverse the vac.to blow the part off.
Have Fun
Bob
 

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vac vs press

Vaccum shaping works on many things (I've used it) however, using a press requires much less overlap, and therefore generates less waste that needs to be trimmed off. It all depends on the project at hand. As you noted, it works great on deep molds.
None the less, Thanks for the comment, The more we get this info out to everyone the better!

D
 

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Digging up an older one, but with a new question. Since I have not tried this yet. I was showing a coworker this and they mentioned using plastic emblems like what is used on new cars. Would it crush the plastic?
Or because the urethane it would just transfer because its a slow rate of pressure?

I'll give it a go, unless someone has tried it and knows it will not work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Wow, it's been a while since this thread popped up.

Plastic isn't going to work for you. You'll end up with a very soft impression because the corners won't be strong enough to form the steel. You need the crisp edges to make it stand out.

Tom
 

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This is SUCH a great thread!

Brian
 

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Quite frankly, its about personal tastes and style.
Man wants his car to be custom and an extension of his style...who are we to say it is ridiculous?
Not to mention it is pretty good craftsmanship of raw metal into a finished product.
You certainly cannot buy that Item now can you?
You need to keep your snide remarks in check or you will be gone.
you have been served.
 
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