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Hello everyone, I am a new to using an HVLP gun and it shows. I have sprayed a few times in the past with a Sharp siphon gun for the most part I was happy with the results.... * I am a hobbyist that only paints once in a year or so it is hard to figure out what is going on without spraying regularly. I have painted a few cars over the years with good results but this hvlp gun makes me look like a kid messing around. VERY Disappointed.....
*I need some advice on gun setup.....
Today I sprayed with a Central Pneumatic HVLP gun Item 69705 it supposed to be capable of spraying with good results. However, I have used it twice in the last couple years and both times ended up with runs. The pattern looks good I am going at the same speed I would with Siphon gun but it appears to need me to go much faster as I have runs all over the fender.

Spraying: Nason single stage full cryl acrylic enamel gloss black...
Settings:
-40 psi at gun with trigger pulled
-Air knob: on bottom of gun opened all the way... (Does this sound correct)
-Fluid knob: this is the one I am concerned with I had it opened 3 full turns from in all the way. It will turn 5.5 full turns total. I am guessing I need to close the fluid knob to around 1.5 turns open to cut down on the volume of paint?

It sprayed on and looked good but a little heavy/thick. I walked away and came back and all of these runs had started that were not there just after spraying they took a while to form....

Thanks loosing my mind....
 

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With HVLP the technique is different. Very close, very fast. This requires being more mindful of fan adjustment, overlap, and patterning. And reducer selection. An experienced guy might adjust technique to suit and spray OK on your settings. Or might watch you spray and know how to adjust the gun.

The best description I can conjure is that with HVLP you are splattering, pulverizing droplets that can be less finely atomized. Think freezing rain or sleet as opposed to gentle shower.

To give you some idea how vigorously an HVLP works best, one training center I went to was not alarmed at us raking the air cap across the basecoat by mistake. Fast and close, and just short of a puddle. But perfectly distributed. Spray it as wet as you want it to look.

Don't sweat it. There are run nightmares in everyone's learning curve. Mine were spectacular. Learning to deal with them is a part that you learn just to get through to the skill level where you don't need to remember how to fix runs.

Just general stuff. Don't have a gun like yours, can't say. I will say if you have an HF gun with a good pattern, luck is on your side!
 

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One of my favorite Paint Gun tips:

"A simple formula to remember is orange peel is fluid adjustment and run control is an air pressure adjustment. If you’re getting a few runs try upping the air pressure 5-10 pounds more."

Here's a few tips that helped me and might help you-good luck!

 

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For all it's worth, your pressure sounds really high to me. I use an Iwata LPH400 and the recommended pressure is 20 lbs at the cap, although I do make minor adjustments with different materials. I have never sprayed single stage, so maybe it takes higher pressure? I agree with I drive junk above as well.
 

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I have painted a few cars over the years with good results but this hvlp gun makes me look like a kid messing around. VERY Disappointed.....
Same here! I never painted an entire car or truck, but did a lot of panels over the years (roof, rocker panels, etc.) using PPG enamel and a Taiwanese copy of a Binks #7 gun. And I rarely, if ever, ended up with runs.

Since then I have tired a name brand HVLP gun and then an LVLP gun recommended to me by the guys on a paint forum. With both guns, I ended up fighting runs and orange peel. If I ever paint any more panels, I'll either use my 30 year-old Binks copy or buy a new one like it. It doesn't seem to me like the "LP" guns do any better when it comes to getting overspray "dust" all over the garage.
 
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