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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 68 mustang with a 289 that's been bored .030 over with forged internals all balanced, the deck has been trimmed down .01, Holley 570 street avenger, edelbrock rpm air gap intake, hooker super comp headers, a c4 with a Hughes 2200 stall converter and am in the process of putting a 3.40 gear in the rear end. I plan for this car to be a street strip car, something very street able but something I won't be ashamed of at the track.
70% street , 30% track

The suspension is completely redone along with all new steering components.

The real question starts now, what would be the best head and cam combo because what I have now is no where near matching each other or my stall. I want heads that'll fit with my intake and be in its powerband range and also fit my headers and I need a cam that will match with the heads and the stall I have.

Right now the heads and cam don't match, the heads are over ported and leaving no velocity, the cam is a pbm can that I know nothing about othe than .498 lift, and the valves and rocker arms are stock.
 

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289 buzz bomb

The question here that begs to be asked is what kind of track time do you want to run?
The lower the ET the harder your gona havta buzz this short stroke little mill.
 

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I have a 68 mustang with a 289 that's been bored .030 over with forged internals all balanced, the deck has been trimmed down .01, Holley 570 street avenger, edelbrock rpm air gap intake, hooker super comp headers, a c4 with a Hughes 2200 stall converter and am in the process of putting a 3.40 gear in the rear end. I plan for this car to be a street strip car, something very street able but something I won't be ashamed of at the track.
70% street , 30% track

The suspension is completely redone along with all new steering components.

The real question starts now, what would be the best head and cam combo because what I have now is no where near matching each other or my stall. I want heads that'll fit with my intake and be in its powerband range and also fit my headers and I need a cam that will match with the heads and the stall I have.

Right now the heads and cam don't match, the heads are over ported and leaving no velocity, the cam is a pbm can that I know nothing about othe than .498 lift, and the valves and rocker arms are stock.
A buddy of mine has a 302 with a 100k+ mile stock bottom end with a Ford Racing roller cam (E40?.. its apparently a popular roller cam for a sbf) and a set of GT40 heads with a weiand stealth intake and carb and runs really good. Its in an 80s foxbody with a T5. Last weekend he was running mid 14s at 97 mph with no tuning on the carb or dist with a bad bog off of the line (next weekends project).

Whats your budget look like? If its not a lot go pull a set of gt40 heads off of an exploder from the yard and have them rebuilt and throw in a roller cam to match the heads and intentions of the car.

Otherwise there are plenty of aftermarket aluminum heads available for a sbf.
 

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you have to rev a 302 to make power,you will need more gear than 340 to go quickly.with out over drive you wont want to drive it very far if you put more gear to it,,,
theres a hole in the bucket,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I mean there's gotta be a way to go fast without overdrive I understand it won't be the fastest but I will build another motor to race. All my friends have cruiser motors and trannys and race motors and trannys and what ever they do they just switch out.
 

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figure out how fast you want to go first. Its hard to say okay i am gonna need x amount of hp because I want to go y speed. Have you raced cars before. Are you happy running low 14s maybe high 13s? If so you should be able to do it with the current bottom end you have. You just have to work on the top end. My buddy doesn't spin his motor over 6000 and is running good times for what it is. Like others have said if you really want to get that thing moving you are gonna need more cubes or maybe a power adder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
High 13s are fine right now until I do more but what is a good head and cam combo that will give me some good power. I don't mind turning this motor 6500 or so just don't wanna screw it up with this crappy cam and heads that are on right now.
 

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210542-08 NA 258 264 230 236 .561 .574 108 104 .018 .018 1,16
1800-5600 Hot Street/Mild Strip. Good mid range torque & power. 2000+ stall. a cam like this or one or 2 sizes up or down,depending on your choice.
650 double pumper holley,good intake. rethink those 3.4 gears,maybe 4.3?up or down 1 ratio.13s in a small engine requires gears and RPM
 

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High 13s are fine right now until I do more but what is a good head and cam combo that will give me some good power. I don't mind turning this motor 6500 or so just don't wanna screw it up with this crappy cam and heads that are on right now.
Go get some gt40 heads from an exploder. Do a google search on how to identify them and what years got them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
210542-08 NA 258 264 230 236 .561 .574 108 104 .018 .018 1,16
1800-5600 Hot Street/Mild Strip. Good mid range torque & power. 2000+ stall. a cam like this or one or 2 sizes up or down,depending on your choice.
650 double pumper holley,good intake. rethink those 3.4 gears,maybe 4.3?up or down 1 ratio.13s in a small engine requires gears and RPM
Could you brake some of those numbers down for me bud
 

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258 and 264 are the advertised intake and exhaust duration. 230/236 is duration @ 050 valve lift.
.561/.574 is the gross valve lift,not counting what you lose due to valve lash.108 is lobe ceparation angle and 104 is the intake love center line,,,.018 is the feeler guage size for valve lash,,1800 to 5600 is the RPM range of the cam
 

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for comparison
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 284/292
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 241/249
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .525/.546
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2500-6600
similar on paper,,,but,,,very rough idle
spend the extra money and get a small solid roller and have a nice idle and more power
 

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258 and 264 are the advertised intake and exhaust duration. 230/236 is duration @ 050 valve lift.
.561/.574 is the gross valve lift,not counting what you lose due to valve lash.108 is lobe ceparation angle and 104 is the intake love center line,,,.018 is the feeler guage size for valve lash,,1800 to 5600 is the RPM range of the cam
Why are you recommending a solid cam for a 70% street vehicle that's only planning on running 13s at the track? A hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller could do just as good with out the hassles of running a solid tappet
 

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A 13 second '60s Mustang with a 289 is no punk. While a very good "little' engine, 289 is just that. Little. It needs to rev hard and be gared "stiff" to make good 1/4 mile passes, even high 13s. A 2,200 converter is NOT going to make it a good "launcher". The engine simply doesn't make enough low-end torque to support that, AND got to the 7,000-plus it will need to make more than 300-325 HP.

289's biggest "advantage" is the ability to rev "to the moon" and live. The solid cam will allow it to go beyond 6,500 without problems. The rod/stroke ratio and short stroke make it very tough when revved "hard". I highlky recomend you pursue that aspect if you're committed to 289.

For the better performing streeters, consider a 331 or 347 (I like the former more) "stroker" kit. It fits the 289 block just as it does the 302. The 331 offers better internal geometry, though it "gives up" a little displacement.

FWIW

Jim
 

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zildjian4life218 question,"Why are you recommending a solid cam"
because the 289 is a small engine and needs to rev to make 300 hp.hydraulic flat tappet cams do not perform as well
a solid roller will have very good street manners and a very wide powerband.


zildjian4life218 ? my question to you,why would you recommend a hydraulis flat tappet cam to anyone serious about make good power to cubes in any application?
 

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zildjian4life218 question,"Why are you recommending a solid cam"
because the 289 is a small engine and needs to rev to make 300 hp.hydraulic flat tappet cams do not perform as well
a solid roller will have very good street manners and a very wide powerband.


zildjian4life218 ? my question to you,why would you recommend a hydraulis flat tappet cam to anyone serious about make good power to cubes in any application?
Because the op said he is okay with 13s. It won't take much more than 300 hp to do that.
 

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The way I understood the OP's original post is looking to get a good matching combo for the street that will be better and reliable. Sure a 331 or 347 would do it much better but at the added cost maybe that's not what the OP was looking at getting into. If it were me I would do as I originally said and just run a set of factory gt40 heads and a roller cam. It doesn't sound like your too serious into the racing and favor street driving. Which ever you decide good luck to ya.
 
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