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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These gibson stainless headers run hotter then hells kitchen on my ALUMINUM HEADS.

So, im trying to get everyone's opinion on header bolt choice and gasket.

Let me know what ya all are running and how its holding up for you. Thanks for saving me time and wasted money!!:welcome:
 

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These gibson stainless headers run hotter then hells kitchen on my ALUMINUM HEADS.

So, im trying to get everyone's opinion on header bolt choice and gasket.

Let me know what ya all are running and how its holding up for you. Thanks for saving me time and wasted money!!:welcome:
I use stainless fasteners with the heads and drive types selected for ease of getting some sort of wrenching tool on them around the tubes in as quick a fashion as possible; so I end up with some being 12 point small head header bolts, others having an Allen or Torx, others sometimes just plain old hex heads. Nothing special in terms of alloy some like the header bolts are specific for that application and come from the automotive parts supplier others like the Allen heads are from Ace Hardware. My local Ace store is down by the harbor so they keep an extraordinary selection of fasteners to support the marine industry from industrial shipping and commercial fishermen to yachts.

If your headers are running unusually hot it would be good two check timing and fuel mixtures. There is no reason for headers to run any hotter on aluminum than iron and some good reasons to expect them to run cooler since aluminum moves heat into the cooling system much faster than iron.

Bogie
 

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You want what is called Stage 8 fasteners. Its a company that makes bolts that dont come loose for any reason. This way you dont have to tighten the crap out of them to make then hang on. Just remove the lock and retorque to spec after a few heat cycles. Dont run anything else if the bolts are an issue this will fix it right the first time. Used by most racer now a days since they done need safety wire or anything else to stay put. Once you use them you will be happy you did.
GM Locking Header Bolt Kits | Locking Bolts

That's all fine and good as long as you can install the headers with the engine on the engine stand. Most people can't install a snap ring on a pin sticking out of the middle of a dining room table, let alone on a header bolt inside an engine compartment.
Put a set of headers on a Hemi in a late model Challenger or Ram truck where you can barely see the bolts, let alone touch them.
 

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That's all fine and good as long as you can install the headers with the engine on the engine stand. Most people can't install a snap ring on a pin sticking out of the middle of a dining room table, let alone on a header bolt inside an engine compartment.
Put a set of headers on a Hemi in a late model Challenger or Ram truck where you can barely see the bolts, let alone touch them.
Yeah but you can find the spark plugs on a hemi.

Bogie
 

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The stage 8 aren't that hard to lock. If you can see the bolt you can snap on the lock clip. You can also grind the clip edges a little so they match the position of your bolts. But the best solution I've used is the aluminum gaskets, I think mr gasket makes a set, which are almost 1/4"'thick and squish like butter. They'll seal anything and once you get bolts that can't rotate out (such as the stage 8) you're done for life.
 

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The copper gaskets are terrible in my opinion. The copper I've found to be too thin and require a perfectly flat head and header flange to seal against. I found them worse than any standard gasket, at least for headers.

The aluminum gaskets are like 6 layers of aluminum and each layer will compress and seal. The only issue with the aluminum is that you're shifting the headers 1/4" out from the head until you tighten the bolts but even tightened I think they're 1/8 - 3/16" thick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The copper gaskets are terrible in my opinion. The copper I've found to be too thin and require a perfectly flat head and header flange to seal against. I found them worse than any standard gasket, at least for headers.

The aluminum gaskets are like 6 layers of aluminum and each layer will compress and seal. The only issue with the aluminum is that you're shifting the headers 1/4" out from the head until you tighten the bolts but even tightened I think they're 1/8 - 3/16" thick.

That all makes perfect sense, alum. to alum. meshing with high temps= possible issues that i wont be willing to take.

As for the copper gaskets, ya you have to have a perfectly flat plane header to seat properly. I read where ALLOT OF LT/LS GUYS, I MEAN ALLOT, SWEAR BY THE FELPRO 1406 AND ARP COMBO
 

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i have had more trouble removing the felpro gaskets from the aluminum head. From my own experience on a street car that sees hundred degree days in bumper to bumper traffic, the aluminum gaskets fell right off after being in the car for several years when I changed headers.
 
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