[cerial]

This is on a 94 s10 frame.

I am throwing the engine back where the transmission was previously and will be notching the old engine crossmember to set the steering box inside it (drivers side) before cutting the frame off in front of the A arms. The pitman arm will be facing mostly forward when driving straight.
I am picking up a (new) manual 525 steering box tomorrow(I need to see if I can fit the old the power steering pitman on it) and the orgional plan was to eliminate the idler arm.

But.
I am looking at the above photo and wondering if I notched the passenger side of the crossmember and mounted the idler 180 degrees(on the crossmember) if that would affect anything geometry wise?

This would allow me to use factory steering parts that are cheap and easy to find instead if fabricating the "cross over" linkages from scratch.

 

[ericnova72]

The power box pitmans won't fit on the manual box shaft....shaft diameter and spline count is different.
I have no idea if the S-10 manual box pitman is somethng you can buy new, since it isn't considered a wear part.

 

[brading]

Cannot see if done right why it would affect the steering geometery. Speedway Motors sell the pitman arm. So you are going to eliminate the anti roll bar then

 

[cerial]

Thanks for the pitman advise. I am going to mock up something in wood pitman wise to get the angles and pitman length right before ordering a arm.

Yea the anti roll bar needs to go. No way to save it with what I have in mind. I am going to try to re use it for the rear. The engine and transmission will weigh in around 950lbs with the pan being 4" off the ground. The cab is above the frame. But my goal is to keep that weight around 400lbs while still being waterproof.

This is being built as cruiser that is extremely easy to work on, with great visibility, and will get up to speed in a respectful manner. I feel I can play with/adjust dampeners/progressive springs till I find a compromise I am comfortable with as far as sway goes. One of those things I need to get the wheels rolling and see how it feels to me before I start buying stuff that may work for other people.

I was going to cut into it today. But I am still waiting on my U bolts to loosely mount up the rear and the frame is up in the air. So I may potentially tweak the frame if I go cutting at the supports now and really should just wait till the wheels are down.

U bolts need to go in then wheels can hit the ground
Engine crossmember can be notched at that point for steering components
Excessive frame can be eliminated further front and rear once steering components are moved
Then engine/transmission can be placed and mocked up for me to make mounts
Driveshaft can be measured and ordered (around 10" with 5" slip)
Engine mounts finalized and pinion angle finalized I can weld axle mounts
Then back to the cab installing the doors, floor, wells, shifter, seats, etc
I can finish the steering system.
Tear out the front and rear brakes, disc on the rear and large bore calipers all around.
Work on the electronics as I wait for driveshaft/brake parts building a harness/switches/ etc.
Install fuel tank and gravity fed pump
Brakes system finalized Axle finalized and things can be painted.
Start on "body" work and cooling system
Add another 100 hours and it will be ready for a drive around the yard.