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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. Ive got a 1980 454 motor in a 59 chevy truck.

My problem is ive got an aftermarket HEI setup (procomp distributor with MSD blaster coil) (the square coil not the cylinder). When the motor gets hot and its hot outside the truck starts to misfire, then when its cool out it works fine. I replaced the coil once and that fixed it but now that its hot outside again its happening again.

Could this be a wiring concern or a physical outside air temperature too close to the coil causing the problem? I have a EZ wiring harness installed in the truck and no ballast resistor on the setup.

Not sure if I need to go one step farther and drill the firewall and mount the coin in the cab or if I need to be fixing wiring.

Any help is appreciated, thanks everyone
 

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Hey guys. Ive got a 1980 454 motor in a 59 chevy truck.

My problem is ive got an aftermarket HEI setup (procomp distributor with MSD blaster coil) (the square coil not the cylinder). When the motor gets hot and its hot outside the truck starts to misfire, then when its cool out it works fine. I replaced the coil once and that fixed it but now that its hot outside again its happening again.

Could this be a wiring concern or a physical outside air temperature too close to the coil causing the problem? I have a EZ wiring harness installed in the truck and no ballast resistor on the setup.

Not sure if I need to go one step farther and drill the firewall and mount the coin in the cab or if I need to be fixing wiring.

Any help is appreciated, thanks everyone
Given that ProCom sells about a half dozen different models of this thing, the question has to arise as to what is the part number?

ProComp in the past has had a lot of problems with the electronics and electrical parts. I don't use the stuff but know several people that do. I'd go back over the instructions to discover what the connection voltages should be then check them out. If the coil or the electronics are under volt and in the case of the coil overvolt they/it will run hot.

Bogie
 

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Ignition coil overheating

Which model of Pro-comp distributor do you have? Has the wiring from the truck been upgraded? Are you using the Blaster SS coil MSD-8207? If so the primary resistance is not enough. You should be using a Blaster High Vibration MSD-8222 or any of the Blaster 2 coils that have a primary resistance of 0.700. The MSD-8222 is epoxy filled like the one you have. The Blaster 2 coils are oil filled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's the procomp pc7000 small cap and the msd 8207. Is there a way to get the 8207 to work or do I need to get the other msd coil? Thanks for the awesome info so far :)
 

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Ignition coils

See my post #5. The primary resistance is too low on your coil. The MSD-8222 is the coil you should have. Pro-comp recommends 0.5 to 1.0 primary resistance. Also does your ignition switch wire going to the coil have +12 volts all the time. Older chevys had a resistor wire from the switch to the coil. After starting the volts are reduced to 8-9. If this is your case run a new +12 volt wire from the switch to the coil. Here is the wiring diagram for the 7000 series. http://www.store.procompelectronics.com/images/PC7000INST.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
the coil is getting 12-13.6 volts depending on how hard the alternator is working...is that fine or does it need to be 12 all the time? Got the new coil all wired up but need to fine a new coil wire to distributor tonight or tomorrow to get it finished up.
 

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The only thing I will add is get this fixed ASAP; and you may want to keep the battery disconnected until you do. When I was a kid, one of the local hotrodders had a pretty rough looking 71 camaro with an equally dogged 454 from some truck in it. He added a SUNROOF, grant steering wheel, and a few other pieces of junk AND an Accel SUPERCOIL. If you've never seen one, these things are like the size of a windshield wiper motor. He wired it in incorrectly and it boiled over one night under his dash. The amount of boiling hell this thing unleashed all over his interior....impressive to say the least.
 

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explosion !

In the 60"s I was driving a 10 wheeler farm truck and the under hood wiring shorted out on a year old truck, I hot wired it 12 V to the coil to get back to the farm, I got there and about 2 min later the coil exploded, Oil and fine wire everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey I got the coil you guys recommended installed and it has the proper voltage, same misfire though.

Its weird, sometimes when I rev it up quickly (like a hard acceleration) its fine, nice and smooth all the way up with tons of power.

Then other times it pops out of the tailpipe and has a noticeable loss of power while thats happening. Completely random when it happens, might run good once, then 3 seconds later on the next acceleration it misfires, could do that a few times or run good again the next time.

I uploaded a .zip file on here of an mp3 I made with the popping sound if it helps anyone to figure out. I am at a loss on this one. Nothing seems to be able to fix it.

Heres what I have done:
rebuilt carb (edelbrock 750cfm manual choke)
new intake manifold gaskets
new spark plugs (acdelco r45ts if I remember correctly)
new MSD blaster MSD-8222
new spark plug wires

I did each of those 1 at a time to see if that fixed it or not and none of it did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I noticed a mechanical type ticking noise from the motor today while it was misfiring, im thinking valve lash/ possible bad lifter now.

If it ends up needing a lifter will it damage the cam to put a new lifter and pushrod on whatever cylinder is making the noise or what should I do considering I am using the same camshaft?
I did just replace the intake gasket, is there any possible way to replace the lifter without removing the intake manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i pulled off the driver side valve cover and ran the motor, all of the rocker arms move the same amount and didnt see anything physically wrong. I did notice however that all the pushrods had good oil coming out of them except for the #5 exhaust pushrod. what would cause this and how should I fix it?
 

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Chevyrestore, Check the distributor. First make sure the spark plug wires are right. You will need an assistant. The #1 tower is the 2nd one from where all the wires plug in under the cap, going in a clockwise direction. An easy way to find #1 is to hook up your timing light to #1 spark plug wire. Pull #1 spark plug and bump the engine over until air is coming out around your finger. Turn the key switch to the on position. Look to see if the line on the balancer is near 0 on the timing scale. Take a socket and breaker bar and turn the crank bolt while holding the trigger on the timing light. Stop when the light flashes. You can rock the crank back and forth to get the light dead on. Turn the key off. Pop the cap to see where the rotor is pointing. If the rotor is not pointing to the #1 tower I said the distributor is in wrong. BTW check the cap make sure you don't see any carbon trails from the center button. You can rewire the cap starting where the rotor is pointing with #1 then in a clockwise direction 8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Fire the motor up and set the timing at 12*-16* BTDC. If you still hear the tapping noise adjust the valve lash again. Here's the article on how to install a distributor. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_install_a_distributor
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I removed that one pushrod and blew threw it, felt somewhat free, after blowing through it it felt a little bit more free and looking through it I can see its totally clean inside, reinstalled, same thing, no oil from that one pushrod, I ran it with that lifter loose, no clatter, and 1/2 turn tighter after the clatter stopped. I dont think its the adjustment or pushrod itself, the pushrod also appeared unbent
 

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Adjusting valve lash

i pulled off the driver side valve cover and ran the motor, all of the rocker arms move the same amount and didnt see anything physically wrong. I did notice however that all the pushrods had good oil coming out of them except for the #5 exhaust pushrod. what would cause this and how should I fix it?
With the engine off disassemble # 5 rocker arm. Check for burrs on the tipof the rocker where the pushrod sits. There is a little hole there, make sure it is not plugged. Clean the pushrod make sure it is not plugged. Reassemble the rocker arm. Start the engine and adjust all the valve lash again.
 

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There's absolutely no problem replacing one lifter or anything less than a full set, but you need to do the same breakin on it that you'd do with a whole new cam/lifter set.
I'd also be looking at that ProComp distributor for the cause of your misfire. When they start to go the electronics will break down when warm or hot, and develope a misfire. It may be signaling you that it's failing. They don't have a great reputation.
 
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