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Discussion Starter #1
I have had up to here, as they say. My car is a 67 chevelle with a 230 inline and a powerglide. It was running like crap for a while, so I had a tune up done. It consisted of plugs, points, wires and a few other things. I was having a problem with throttle response, so I asked my friend's dad about it. He helped me check it out, and apparently my timing was way out of wack, so we fixed it. It ran great last night, probably the best I have ever seen i t run. Now, as I come home from school, it starts acting up. When I hit the gas, it kinda drops the RPM's down to below idle, then it backfires rather loudly, then it kinda picks up speed. The acceleration is absoulutly ridiculously slow, if at all, and it is eating gas like a 454. Please help me before I either blow the car up or something worse.
 

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Check all your vacuum lines, sounds like you have a leak or two.

Have you checked the distributer advance weights? Also check it for excessive wear in the shaft. That would cause the timing to fluctuate.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did check the vacuum pressure last night, and it appeared normal. The gauge kept putting it in the green, so i assume that that isn't the problem. My question was the distributor itself. That is the problem with buying an old car, you don't know the condtion of everything. I havent seen anything inside of the cap, so I figure that there could be a problem with the distributor itself.
 

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It is possible you have a worn dist shaft. This would cause irratic dwell and timing problems. Also check to see if the advance weights are sticking. Another problem could be with the vac advance mechanism. Either not working correctly or rubbing on the wire that goes to the points/condensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The problem just became very important on my list of to do's. I was driving my girlfriend home and a little backfire blew my muffler, so this has to be fixed. I am going to take it off the road tommorow so i can put it away for the winter and fix the problem, thanks for the input.
 

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Be sure the screws that hold the points down are tight, otherwise the points may close up from vibration, causing the timing to become retarded.

Be aware that you should hold the point plate still with a screwdriver while you tighten them. You'll see the place to put it at the edge of the point plate, where it will engage the point plate and the mounting plate at the same time.

Check the timing after you're done.
 

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Also most points nowdays have crappy rubbing blocks that wear real fast until they get "broke in" You can almost expect the points to go shut in the first few hundred miles and need reset.
 

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I had a similar problem once with 250 6cyl in a Nova. The wire to the points had a bare spot, every time the vac advance moved the points plate, the car would start to crap out. It got to running so poorly, the muffler exploded.

Had to go change my shorts. ;)
 

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If it was me I would upgrade to an HEI.
That distributor you got is pretty old.
it probably does need bushings.
Youll drive yourself crazy.:D :smash:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just ordered a new HEI for the car, but my new question is how to hook it up. Is there anything special, or does it just plug in?
 

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Points type ignition use full battery voltage while cranking for a big spark to light rich air-fuel mixture, but a lower voltage while running to prevent burning up the points.
The old points system used a ballast resistor wire to lower voltage to ignition while engine was running.

With the HEI youre going to need a 12 volt power to the distributor.
You can trace the coil wire back a ways to find the resistor wire then cut it off and splice in your new wiring there.
HEI uses a different connector hopefully whoever sold you the distributor can supply that too.
 
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