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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey-
So wondering what kind of induction to use on my C3 resto-mod and what others have had luck with. Gonna be a 377 traditional small block and roller cam in the .550 lift range. The car has an L88 hood so there is some
extra clearance to use a taller-than-usual intake. The car has side mount headers so am leaning away from EFI unless there
is some alternate to using O2 sensors . So far, have been kicking around a 4x2 Weber type setup, Edelbrock's RPM AirGap
dual quads, or even a low-rise tunnel ram suitable for street use. Using that hood, It should be possible to make a decent cold air feed that's isolated from some engine heat . Any ideas would be much appreciated-

thanks,
bill
 

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Edelbrock Performer RPM with Holley 770 cfm street avenger properly tuned will run hard. Your air/fuel ratios are extremely important. It's cheep insurance that many ignore. (single Quad). Just one opinion of many.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Edelbrock Performer RPM with Holley 770 cfm street avenger properly tuned will run hard. Your air/fuel ratios are extremely important. It's cheep insurance that many ignore. (single Quad). Just one opinion of many.
Thanks! There IS life out there- and assuming "Quarter Flash" is NOT a reference to Rindy Ross.... (8
 

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Don't know Randy Ross. My name is Bob, from Oregon. Don't always claim to be right , but I try my best not speek unless I have had the experience.
Thanks, Bob. A shame more people don't have the same attitude. Rindy (nickname for "Orinda") Ross was the lead singer and sax player for the band "Quarterflash", originally from Portland.

have a great one.
bill
 

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Are you going for flash, or streetability? Most of your ideas look wonderful but they're a pain on the street. Tunnel Ram and street just don't fit in the same sentence. You obviously CAN use them on the street, but cold performance is abysmal, and tuning multiple carbs can be torture. Without knowing your cam specs, it's also quite possible that it will be a crazy mismatch and you'll tank your torque.

Air gap or no air gap, your choice. I personally hate them for street. You have two basic operating parameters; fully up to temperature and not fully up to temperature. Using an air gap makes that transition much longer. The runners will eventually get just as hot as a normal manifold (or at least very close) and then their only benefit is that they're slightly taller and may give you a few extra lb-ft at the peak. For a street vehicle I do everything I can to make the transition from cold to hot as fast as possible. I leave exhaust crossovers open, use a non-air gap intake, and a thermo choke instead of an electric choke so it references the actual temperature of the intake. Do I give up 3hp? Yes. Do I have a peaky, gutless engine that's impossible to tune? Nope.

Take it or leave it, just my advice. Unless you're trying to make peak torque at 5000rpms and winding it out to 7000, a tunnel ram is no bueno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you going for flash, or streetability? Most of your ideas look wonderful but they're a pain on the street. Tunnel Ram and street just don't fit in the same sentence. You obviously CAN use them on the street, but cold performance is abysmal, and tuning multiple carbs can be torture. Without knowing your cam specs, it's also quite possible that it will be a crazy mismatch and you'll tank your torque.

Air gap or no air gap, your choice. I personally hate them for street. You have two basic operating parameters; fully up to temperature and not fully up to temperature. Using an air gap makes that transition much longer. The runners will eventually get just as hot as a normal manifold (or at least very close) and then their only benefit is that they're slightly taller and may give you a few extra lb-ft at the peak. For a street vehicle I do everything I can to make the transition from cold to hot as fast as possible. I leave exhaust crossovers open, use a non-air gap intake, and a thermo choke instead of an electric choke so it references the actual temperature of the intake. Do I give up 3hp? Yes. Do I have a peaky, gutless engine that's impossible to tune? Nope.

Take it or leave it, just my advice. Unless you're trying to make peak torque at 5000rpms and winding it out to 7000, a tunnel ram is no bueno.
Well, the hood has around 3 or 4 inches more clearance than a standard L82 hood so a tunnel ram like
you seem to be describing would be too high but I've actually been around longer than "old" Quarter Flash, and these days-
"old" is not 66. Maybe not even 76. Closer to 80 or 85 now. Back to intakes- tunnel rams DO work on the street
if you're willing to put in the tuning time. The last one I worked on was in a V8 Vega with a 355 small block, a CC
.575 lift roller cam and an Edelbrock Tr1Y tunnel ram with 2 1850s. Between changing power valve, diaphragm springs and main jets, It must've taken a week to get it tuned but then it was fine. It started as soon as the key was turned and had
GREAT throttle response, almost as if the gas pedal was directly connected to the rear wheels. A real challenge for a street car is an "old" Hilborn-type mechanical fuel injection. It's possible (I've done it ) but takes lots of time and patience to get it right and since there are no accelerator pumps, it probably ends up running a tad rich or there is no throttle response coming
off a traffic light. Part of hot rodding is doing something unique and maybe a little outrageous. Was just wondering what other people might be doing that might be a little off-beat.
May as well close this one out.
 

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I leave exhaust crossovers open, use a non-air gap intake, and a thermo choke instead of an electric choke so it references the actual temperature of the intake.
Hey Curtis, that's some really good advice, but now I'm thinking about removing the Performer EPS manifold on a truck I'm working on to see if the ports are blocked. The truck is going back up to the northeast US, where fast warm-up is truly necessary in the winter. I can't think of another way to check it. So you've created a lot of work for me! ;)
 

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Hey Curtis, that's some really good advice, but now I'm thinking about removing the Performer EPS manifold on a truck I'm working on to see if the ports are blocked. The truck is going back up to the northeast US, where fast warm-up is truly necessary in the winter. I can't think of another way to check it. So you've created a lot of work for me! ;)
Get crackin' :)
 
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