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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting ready to make some simple flat door panels for my newly restored microvan. I've got my old ones to use as templates. I've read a few door panel threads, and did some searching here and Google. It sounds like the black water resistant door panel board is no longer a favorite. There has been some talk of PVC panels ? ...........or other new types of door panel board ?. Where can I go to find out more information ?

Thanks Mark
 

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I just made door panel panels for my '34 coupe. I used ideas from this board and it went great. THANKS to everyone on here that posts questions, answers and ideas. I'm goin' to use the panels as they are for a while without covering them with anything. I'm sure that there are other ways to do door panels but, this is what I decided to do from posts that I liked on this board and they worked for me. If you look through the links that 73oldsman mentioned you'll find better details of the subjects that I'm mentioning.
Patterns: clear plastic (dropcloth) and a Sharpie marker
Panel material: Sintra 2mm PVC black 4'X8" approx $40.
Adhesive: 3M 08090 Super Trim Adhesive 10 oz. approx $17.
Clips: Early ford style offset wire
The piece of PVC against the door holds the clips. The second piece glues over top of the other and hides the clips.
The Sintra board cuts good with a utility or X-Acto knife, drills good with a Unibit, the edges file and sand good also.
Have fun,Smokey
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes all good info indeed! Your door panel recipe sounds alot like what I was planning........I was suprised to call the plastic store today and find out a 1/8" PVC 4x8 sheet was 115.$ !!! :eek:

The sales guy turned me on to the Sintra @ 40 bucks and .040" ABS sheeting for 25. $

I'll go check it out.
 

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The place I buy from has a brand called Maxxion. It's PVC foamboard like Sintra. (This stuff is also called closed cell PVC, or expanded PVC.) 1/2 the weight and cheaper than PVC, and can be cut, glued, heated and formed too. All the rest of the info you got in this thread has been right on the money. I think you will find DAP top and trim adhesive as good as the 3M and less expensive.
 

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Check your local sign shop for 4X8 PVC sheets, should be less than $40. The problem with any of the plastic sheeting is that you have to be very careful when installing it or especially when removing it otherwise it will break and your panel will be ruined. If the door has holes where water can get to the backside of the panel it will run down and stain the bottom of the door upholstery. Plastic door panels will not help you here. Here's my approach to door panels and I always assume the car will be driven in the rain or at least get washed where water will get down in the door. If the door has a slot at the bottom where 3 mil clear plastic can be tucked into the slot to carry the water back into the door, the I use Gaffers Tape to seal the plastic all around and any small holes. My second choice is to cover the back of the upholstered panel with the 3 mil plastic using your DAP contact cement, be careful to seal the edges. The Gaffers Tape is used in the movie industry to tape mic cables and most anything down to the floor to prevent tripping hazard on the set. It looks similar to duct tape but is waterproof, and it sticks like crazy and doesn't dry out like duct tape. I use it on every restoration but a word of caution........don't put this on the outside paint as it will most likely pull off the paint when you remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yep I googled it. I was hoping Home Depot carried it so I could go get some today, but it doesn't look like it. I'll keep trying though. Thanks for the tip. I keep thinking how sorry I would be, had you not mentioned a vapor barrier......I took off the window wiskers when I painted the doors... and haven't found a suitable replacement yet....so water will pour through down to the drains..and I just know my new door panel fabric would have been stained.......
 

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On the older vehicles, like my truck, we employ "rain curtains." Where ever there's a place where water may enter, you secure a piece of plastic on the top-inside of any opening and feed it through to the bottom-outside of the opening, keeping any water away from the door panel and directing it down to the drain holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I called around today. I got Gorilla tape, black, 17 mil thick, weather proof, and sticks like crazy, it will pull paint. I'm using 6 mil clear plastic sheeting, and happily got all my door vapor barriers constructed. They came out real nice. Next up, the panels themselves
 

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Where your plastic overlaps the door openings at the bottom, any water that gets trapped there will cause rust. Try to find a way to tuck the plastic into the opening at the bottom to let the water drain back into the door. The door has drains at the bottom to let the water out. You've got the general idea though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah. I thought about that. Not sure what to do. On the front doors, there are only two fist sized openings pretty far up from the bottom, I can't figure how to make splash shields like you suggested with out compromising the vapor barrier. Still pondering.


I finished the drivers door panel tonite. A test panel. My secret material has been revealed. Hope you guys don't think I'm girly :mwink:
 

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BTW, I just stumbled onto a source for Gaffer's tape. The U-Line catalog has it, but it sure isn't cheap. A roll 2" by 60 yards is $17 a roll, and the minimum is 3. (no, we don't think you're girly, Alice. Just Kidding)
 
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