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I have a 1940 chevy sedan 350/350, Im getting all kinds of road,engine,tranny noise inside the car.I dont have any interior insulation in it.And dont know what kind is the best. can you help?

Thanks
 

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Acoustic Rock ... for real.
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I just insulated the floor, firewall and up under the dash on my truck. I used plain rebond -- scraps all thrown together; you can see all different colored pieces of thread and stuff in a basic gray cotton material -- I bought enough to do all of the above for like $11.00 at Home Depot. You can see pics of it at my site link below my sig. I glued it down with 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive, also purchased at Home Depot.

For a headliner, in the interest of cutting down on heat from the sun, a layer of aluminum above rebond is good.

My cab is a LOT quieter since I insulated and I haven't even put carpet down yet.

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup
 

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Insulation can be as simple as 2 or three layers of roofing felt on the floor. Note: floor should be cleaned, derusted, primed and sealed with any color coat before adhesive and felt are applied.
For many cars the original firewall pad of jute and cover of either OEM style waterproof cardboard or fibreglass are available very reasonably from your parts supplier. The aluminum layered bubble insulation is another option for roof above headliner and inside cowl panels and back of cabs.
 

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I can't tell you how well it's worked since I haven't driven with it yet, but I did mine on a budget.. Bottom layer was a rubberized asphalt layer (ice shield for roofing your house) glued down securely. Next I glued a layer of foil-backed bubble wrap. Carpet will go over top of that. It's cheap enough that you could afford to cover every surface and it's not too bulky, either - about 3/8" plus carpet. I skipped the asphalt in the roof, I figured it would be too heavy and want to droop.
 

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A warning for the foil backed bubble wrap insulation. ....Although it works pretty good, your heels will pop the bubbles and you will be left with an unsightly lumpy floor.
 

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I buy the aluminum coated bubble stuff at Home Depot in huge rolls. Sold as a home insulation, it is a lot cheaper than as a car insulation. Glue in place w/ panel adhesive. The rolls I get are enough to do two cars, cheap enough to afford two layers for more insulation. Great for everything except floors where you should use Horvath's rebond felt or some such.
 

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Thanks for the tips on the bubble-pack, guys.. I just figured the stiff rubber backing on the carpet would distribute weight from my feet enough to keep from popping. I'll have to keep an eye on it.

The good thing is, it's cheap enough that if I have to do it over, it's not gonna break the bank. :rolleyes: :)
 

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Hi! Listen I lived in the Phoenix area for 18 years and drove a black Triumph TR7 Spider Roadster, so I know a little about interior heat!
The Koolmat stuff is THE way to go! You can now even buy pre-formed carpet with this stuff already attached. The easiest way is to buy a box and get some spray glue, and put the stuff everywhere, even a double layer over the tran tunnel. I am redoing my 69 Vette, this is what I will do there to help with big-block heat! Hey, do it with the right materials the first time, bubble wrap, get real!
 

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Hey there, a tip on interior carpet...I've bought industrial rubber backed throw rugs, from the overall supply co and bonded it to the floor/etc and got a very nice, industrial strength interior carpet that you can hose out or even pressure wash/vacuem clean. great for trucks & jeeps etc.
 

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LyTherm Max is *definitely* the way to go; there was an article on insulating and sound-deadening in the May 2003 issue of American Rodder. Check it out; it looks like a good deal.
 

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Why re-invent the wheel? I'ld go to a wrecker and get the real stuff from a luxury car, Lincoln, Caddy, whatever. You'll get the best there is for cheap, lots of research goes into this stuff by manufacturers for their best cars. Also, I wouldn't glue it down in case anything was ever spilt on the carpet, windows forgotton open in the rain etc. Trying to get insulation completely dry is virtually impossible without removing it,
and if it's left to sit it will rust your floor for sure, which I repair for a living. Just my opinion, goodluck :cool:
 

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Although not gluing the insulation down sounds like a good idea, without a molded insulation and carpet it would never work. If your car has any sort of tranny hump, the only way to keep the insulation and carpet in the shape of the hump is to stretch it and glue it down. Although mmetalman does have a point about the insulation in luxury cars, personally, its not worth my time to go to a junk yard and look for a Cadillac, then remove the seats, the center console, and all the side plastic trim to remove the carpet to get to the insulation. And the insulation will be molded to fit the floor of the car you get it from, and wont be anywhere close to the floor in your car. Not trying to be a dick and shoot down anyones opinions or ideas down, just trying to put everything into perspective.
 

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Hey guys, Stoneschool here, go to DesignEngineering.com and check out the thermal barrier stuff! DEI thermal products are available through Summitt Racing or Eastwood CO online. They even have stuff to put one the underside of a vehicle! Really check it out!
 

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$54.50 for a 36"x40" sheet of DEI Heat screen? I'm sure it's great stuff, but I can't justify spending that kind of cash. At ~60 sq. ft., I'd rather spend the < $1 per sq. ft. I'm spending now and put the extra cash into the air conditioning system.

I guess it depends on your budget and requirements - My 'Vette floorboards could use something really good for heat reflection, and the amount of space required probably wouldn't break the bank. It's a ragtop, so extensive sound deadening would mostly be useless. My Suburban, on the other hand, doean't have heat issues like the 'Vette and I want a quiet interior.
 

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I have a '40 Olds which I am going to insulate with Cool Stuff. This insulation was developed by NASA for use in the space shuttle. It costs $48 for 60 square feet plus $15 for s&h. If it is as good as advertised I'll be happy. I will also use heavy undercoating to help quell the road noise.
The number to call is 1-330-265-1031. Good luck.
 

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I lined the interior of my truck with foil backed insulation designed for water heater insulation. It's only 3/8" thick and has reduced the heat and noise substantially. Two rolls and spray adhesive cost me $34 at Home Depot.
 

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:confused: Hey yall I \/\/a$ ju$t \/\/oundering have any off yall tried to u$e aluminum foil for car in$ulation? Do you think it
\/\/ould do any good? Keyboard i$ me$$ed up thank$ chri$:D :evil:

You kno u$e it too keep the heat out and $tuff :confused:
 

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Regarding foiled bubble wrap, the stuff from Lowe's and Home Depot is definitely less expensive than the hot rod material sold at shows. Even LESS expensive-make your own. You can get 25 square feet of bubble wrap at Staples for about $10 -for 3/8, they have 5/8 big bubbles, too- and a roll of heavy duty aluminum foil at Walmart for $2. You're going to need the spray adhesive anyway,so buy a big can. The bubble wrap is easier to fit and trim uncovered, then you can spray it down and attach your foil. A bit of work, but you can fit it well and save a few dollars. Use those dollars to buy your lady some flowers on the way home-that's the best street rod insulation you can get.
 
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