[mistermuscles]

Hey,
I was thinking of replacing the wood in my 34' Chevy with steel tubing, but I have heard that a lot of the wood was used for nailing interior panels into as opposed to actually bracing the body.

Would you suggest that I use the interior wood for my new interior panels, or should I use something else?

Thanks!

 

[Centerline]

Replacing everything with metal could turn out to be quite a job. You might try this guy for complete pre-cut wood kits for your car. Could save you a whole lot of time and aggravation.

Centerline

 

[mistermuscles]

Replacing everything with metal could turn out to be quite a job. You might try this guy for complete pre-cut wood kits for your car. Could save you a whole lot of time and aggravation.

Centerline

I was thinking of using that, but I've heard that it costs close to $5000 per kit, and that they are very heavy.

What about just using steel forbracing the body, and use the wood that I have to make templates for the door and panel wood?

Thanks!

 

[Centerline]

Replacing the wood with metal will be a job but will wind up being stronger in the long run. I would certainly think that using the wood you have as a template will work too especially for mounting the interior panels.

Centerline

 

[kristkustoms]

Steel would add alot of support to the structure of the car, but your interior guy will hate you if you take out all the wood (at least i would). Panels can be attached to steel without much of a problem, but the stapling for the windlace and headliner is obviously out of the question.

There is a particular fiberglass body manufacturer that uses steel throughout the entire inner structure of their cars, there is no wood to be found. Ive done 2 of these (Kilbourn maybe???). The lack of the wood adds on almost a week of extra work for me. Everywhere i need to staple (around the entire door jambs for windlace, around the rear window, around the curve between the doors and rear window, headliner bows, etc) i had to add wood. Id make 3/16" thick pieces of "tack" strip for all these areas and screw them into the steel. Id have to cover these tack strips so the raw wood edge wouldnt show either. So i say, leave some of the wood and add steel bracing.

 

[mistermuscles]

Thanks for the advice Centerline and kristkustoms!

 

[bonuts]

I have spoke to the guy at chevywood.com, and he doesn't have a complete wood kit for my '33 Chevy, and from what I understand they are basically the same cars. He said he could easily build one for me, but would need all the old wood..... And I don't have all of it.:drunk:


He seemed like a good guy, but I would imagine it will cost quite a bit for a kit. I believe he did have the bows for the roof though, and that in my opinion will be the biggest deal. So I'll probably buy that, and use steel for the rest.


bonuts

 

[mistermuscles]

I have spoke to the guy at chevywood.com, and he doesn't have a complete wood kit for my '33 Chevy, and from what I understand they are basically the same cars. He said he could easily build one for me, but would need all the old wood..... And I don't have all of it.:drunk:


He seemed like a good guy, but I would imagine it will cost quite a bit for a kit. I believe he did have the bows for the roof though, and that in my opinion will be the biggest deal. So I'll probably buy that, and use steel for the rest.


bonuts

I have most of the wood for my 34', and I am wondering if the wood on my 34' is close enough to your 33' that it could fit.

If that is so, I could send the guy the wood from my 34', and you could buy the new wood that he makes from my patterns. That is, if you want to go all wood.

I am going to use some steel and some wood. Because steel is lighter and is probably cheaper, and the wood will be useful for the interior panels, headliner etc.

 

[36scsc]

muscles,

I am just finishing up with my '36 Chevy project. Don't know what the differences are but I imagine there are a lot of similarities. Personally I think the only critical wood to remove is in the doors. All of it. In my case much of the other wood was in such good shape that I just treated it and reinstalled it. You can make your own sills easily enough since they are straight. I redesigned the wood around the port windows also. Low bucks in both cases. You can take a look at what I did with my wood here...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bikeopellidave/album?.dir=ae25

Also, here are some more 'wood' resources (David J. Entler makes stuff for your '34)...

http://www.myclassiccar.com/HowTo/motormart/relatedservices/woodwork.shtml

 

[mistermuscles]

muscles,

I am just finishing up with my '36 Chevy project. Don't know what the differences are but I imagine there are a lot of similarities. Personally I think the only critical wood to remove is in the doors. All of it. In my case much of the other wood was in such good shape that I just treated it and reinstalled it. You can make your own sills easily enough since they are straight. I redesigned the wood around the port windows also. Low bucks in both cases. You can take a look at what I did with my wood here...

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bikeopellidave/album?.dir=ae25

Also, here are some more 'wood' resources (David J. Entler makes stuff for your '34)...

http://www.myclassiccar.com/HowTo/motormart/relatedservices/woodwork.shtml

Hey, Thanks for the pictures!!

 

[mistermuscles]

He seemed like a good guy, but I would imagine it will cost quite a bit for a kit. I believe he did have the bows for the roof though, and that in my opinion will be the biggest deal. So I'll probably buy that, and use steel for the rest.


bonuts

Yeah. I contacted him as well, and on average, it would probably cost between $4000-$5000 per kit.