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Hi, new to the site, new to drag racing!
The car... 1984 Olds Cutlass Supreme.
Completely stock body and interior. Came with chev 305, 250 trans, metric rear end.

Now has same rear end with Auburn 3.73 posi, turbo 350, 3,500 stall B&M converter,
406 chevy, KB#125 pistons,(11.1 comp)390 gram 5.7 rods, file to fit gap-less Total Seal rings,rotational and static balanced, line bored, decked etc etc block, SFI approved Fluid damper, AFR 195 68cc heads with valve and valve spring upgrade, Comp cams #XR286 cam with matching 888-16 solid roller lifters, Comp cams 1.6 roller rockers, Pete Jackson "quite" gear drive, Edelbrock RPM air gap, Holley 830 four corner idle manual secondaries carb, MSD pro billet distributor, MSD 6 Digital box, Aurora wires, Headman 1-5/8th headers, 3" primary pipes to 2-1/2" mufflers and 2-1/2" tailpipes, custom widened and backspaced factory 14" Rally wheels with 265-50-14 BF Goodrich T/A rubber on the back.

As the motor is new I have set it at 0 degrees initial timing, 20 degrees total advance from the distributor and shifted @5,000 .Tried her out this weekend at our local 500ft strip.
I ran a 6.014 spinning the tires all the way through the track! Just ordered M/T 27-10.5-15 Street Drag slicks, will set my timing to 13-14 initial with 20 deg from the dist for total of 33-34, bolt on the slicks and try again.
Can anybody give me advise as to timing curve ( springs and bushings to use etc) , what my current time relates to on a 1/4 mile track, and a guess as to what will happen with the changes I'm about to make? I know that my rear end is the weak link. What is the easiest swap in that will handle this kind of power? What do I upgrade next to get the biggest bang for the buck? I'm thinking headers?
 

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Tazz
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2,048 Posts
ever try using...

a vacuum gage to get the timing just right? You make and adjustment with the engine warmed up and see if the vacuum goes up or down, your looking for the max vacuum and thus the perfect timing.


Tazz


Rat Rods Rule!
 
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