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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Discussion Starter #3
I noticed the feedback as well. I just wondered if anyone had the knowledge enough to say, "yeah, sure that's a fine alternative," or "you can do it, but expect it to break."

I'd love to save a buttload of money, I just don't know if its a viable solution.
 

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I was thinking about this the other day actually. I was wondering why people don't just take the roller parts from a stock sbc and put it in the older block by drilling and tapping. I'm sure you would also need a button so your cam doesn't walk.

Im sure any reputable machine shop would be able to tell you if this is possible and maybe even do it for you for not too bad a price.
 

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King of my Man-cave.
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I think it is ill-thougt-out BS.

There are bosses for the spider mounting bolts in the later blocks.
Earlier blocks don't have the bosses, so you are drilling and tapping into the mail oil galley. Not a good idea because there is no strengthening material where it's needed.

The later blocks have a machined area on top of the lifter bore that is square to the lifter bore to insure that the lifter retainer remains in place. Also, the later lifters have flats machined into them to locate in the lifter retainer. It is likely that the areas where the flats terminate will contact the lifter retainer. This is prevented in the later blocks by having longer lifter bores.

You can see where the lifter valley has been ground out to clear the lifter retainers. I see a lot of older blocks cracked in the same area. I doesn't make sense to me to do anything to make that even more of a probability.

I wouldn't want to try this in an engine that I had any amount of money into and that I would want to live.


tom
 

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I don't really know.....but, just looking at the guys engine....no wire looms, wiring everywhere etc.............Seems to me that he would settle for something that will do a halfarsed job, so why buy from him?
 

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I need a bucket of arc sparks
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I always wondered if a block could crack if a roller cam retrofit kit was put in it. I have seen roller blocks and older non roller blocks and their is a casting difference. I never really liked the idea of grinding and tapping in the lifter valley in a block.
 

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Given a file and die grinder you can cobble anything into an engine. Look at it this way, can it be done? Sure there it is. Should it be done? Ask yourself this, if all you needed was to remove a little material here and there and tap a couple of holes why would GM spend money on casting the lifter bores higher and machining them flat, casting in bosses for the spider, and machining in a surface for the cam retention plate as well as the plate itself? Longevity I would guess.
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Discussion Starter #9
Excellent counterpoints, gents. Exactly what I needed to know. I didn't want to march into this and blindly pay too much for retro rollers, but I also didn't want to skimp on it and have trouble.

I'm actually still considering the non-roller route, but its for a boat and the extra low end torque and dry startup after sitting for 9 months every year can't be ignored. Its an extra $600 or so, but the peace of mind is incredible.

I think with what I saved on the block since it didn't need to be machined I'll splurge on the retro roller conversion :)
 

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poncho62 said:
I don't really know.....but, just looking at the guys engine....no wire looms, wiring everywhere etc.............Seems to me that he would settle for something that will do a halfarsed job, so why buy from him?
good eye for details; I'd agree myself.
 

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curtis73 said:
I'm actually still considering the non-roller route, but its for a boat and the extra low end torque and dry startup after sitting for 9 months every year can't be ignored. Its an extra $600 or so, but the peace of mind is incredible.
QUOTE]

pull the distributor and run the oil pump off a drill to pre-lube everything before firing it.
 

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I beleive that this "conversion" uses roller lifters from a 3.8l V-6 rather than a V-8. They are shorter, and do not stick out of the block as far.
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Discussion Starter #13
ChevelleSS_LS6 said:
pull the distributor and run the oil pump off a drill to pre-lube everything before firing it.
Thanks. I don't mean dry firing it, I mean in successive years. Its a boat so it runs 3 months then sits for 9. A flat cam will score the lobes even if you pull the distributor and run the pump because the cam gets its oiling from crankshaft sling. You could run the pump for an hour and not get any oil on the cam.

The rollers are more suited in that application after all the oil drips off over the winter. Not necessary, but a little peace of mind.
 
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