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Lost in the 60's
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It looks fine to me. If you chop anymore you will be losing interior room, I know...I chopped my coupe 4 in. and I am 6ft. 2 in tall....it was not real comfortable after the chop. Yes you can chop on a slant abd not make the back window any smaller.
 

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Good advice from both of these guys. :D
At this point it is hard to say if it needs more chopping. What it does need is to have the frame dropped about nine inches.
If you chop anymore you will be losing interior room
Drop it about 5 inches and it'll look GOOD! Sitting up that high it will wallow through corners like a pig on stilts. Dan
 

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Yes, there is such thing as too much chop and too much channel.

Your Chevy Coupe looks just right to me.
If you want to go lower cut around the rear window and drop the rest of the roof nice and square, then weld it all back together. This method allows you to retain the stock height (or in your cas, chopped height) rear window and maintain proportions.

Please do not join the ranks of those who modify cars just to modify cars without regard for common sense or personal comfort and ability to use the car as a car, not some flavor of yard ornament or fairground ride.

There are just about NO cars or trucks which look good with severe(over 4") chops. Every state has a height restriction on windshields so that is the maximum which should be done, however, on any one particular car or truck, that is best modified for the driver/owner's own required vision and height restrictions. If you are 5'4" you can be comfortable with a little more whacking than your friend who is 6'4".
So many good cars have been deformed by too severe of a chop that they look like the bottom car in a six-car stack at the scrapyard. Not a good look for a hobby/sport so interested in good looks and function.

Severely chopped and channelled cars have bigtime interior room problems. The chopped cars have vision problems in every direction and the channelled cars often have control placement problems which make them hard to drive. Combine the two in their most severe form and you have a car which is dangerous simply because of bad choices in modification even though the finest in technique and materials have been used.

The super chops and channels only make sense on the drylakes or other race formats where vision is only necessary in a forward direction and control accessability, however awkward, is only a problem for seconds rather than the minutes and hours spent on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
HOW do you drop the frame? i would like to lower the rear about 5inches. also i have another question. the rear suspension is coil spring (bad job) with bars coming off of it (im guessing 4link) id like to remove all that mess and install rear leaf springs with maybe a lowering block to get the rear down? the previous owner wasnt a great welder so ill need to redo anyways,, im new to these old cars so be gentle..
 

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Depending on what suspension is under your car and what the frame configuration is, lowering the car may be easy/inexpensive or not so easy/expensive.
Chances are the coil springs under the tail of that coupe are way too stiff for a lightweight car. Your suspension on your old car should be functional just like the suspension on your modern car. If you walk up to the front end and push down on the frame with your foot it should easily deflect and bounce, same applies to the rear by just pushing down on the quarter panel.
Of course, if it is working well and your your shocks are good it should only bounce once or twice.

You can get new coil springs at your local auto parts store. You'll be looking for a spring rate in the range of 165-185, I would guess. You'll need to study the spring catalog specification charts for wire size,end styles, free height, and spring rate before deciding what to get.
 

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Lost in the 60's
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PasadenaHotrod has given you some excellant advice. You could swap those rear coils out for some coil over shocks to use with your 4-bar system. The 30 Ford coupe in my Avitar has a rear fourbarsystem and some coil over shocks . and it sits at a good ride height and rides good.
 

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Looks good to me, on chops I find that less is more. What look are you going for? It looks like it almost has a gasser stance right now with those wheels and bars in the back.
My opinion (and this might be way different than yours) would be to go for an east coast look. Channel it just enough to hide the frame, kickup the frame in the rear or change your suspension like mentioned above. Shoot paint, add cool wheels and voila.


Mike
 

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Lost in the 60's
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willowbilly3 said:
I like a 3-4 on most coupes of that vintage. # in back and 4 in front. % looks cool but it can start to get tight for tall dudes.
It got tight in mine in a hurry....I had to put my seats as close to the floor as I could get them then I still had to take the package tray out of the back and move the seats further to the rear.
 

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Ford Man to the bone!!!
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Did a little more work... :thumbup:

(Of course the measurements are just guesses. But you can get an idea. I could have cleaned it up better with a little blending of the areas where the back ground moved with the cut/paste. Forgive me. Just quick and dirty.)
 

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Ford Man to the bone!!!
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topdogger said:
I personally would say stay with what you got. If you modify a car too much it isn't as nice. Fine details are what counts. More small things may be more work but they're always nicer in the end.
His car is already chopped 3 inches so NOT having a modifying body is NOT possible. I guess he could find a donor car and raise the top back to stock. :mwink:
 

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Do Wat ya like

Do what ya like!
I'm a beginning hotrodder too, and one thing I learned is everyone has an opinion, most of which wont agree with your own. Hot rods are very personal
things . We chopped my truck 6 inches and everyone said I was crazy. Now that the top is welded back on it looks pretty good though. (sorry, no new pix, there will be soon)

j-stylez
 
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