My '37 Plymouth was not built by me and I didn't get a lot of info with the car. What little work I've had to do so far has been straightforward, but now it's getting a little difficult because I'm not quite sure what parts I'm dealing with.
The front suspension appears to be an original (not an aftermarket kit) Mustang II crossmember and arms. I suspect an aftermarket rotor and disc brake "system" but don't know the supplier. I looked for part numbers and I did annoy the counter guy at NAPA for a while to try to discover things. Here's all I found/know:
The brake master cylinder is a '74-vintage Corvette (NAPA 39052), the front brake calipers are from an '84 Camaro (NAPA 442-2032M, 422-2033M). The rears brakes are also Camaro calipers with an integral parking brake attached to a NOVA II diff. The power brake booster has no visible part numbers or markings and is 6-3/4" in diameter at the widest point. The front 10-1/2" ventilated rotors are marked with "81906" on the right and "81905" on the driver's side. The outer wheel bearing is marked "BOWER" "LM12749" "AT" and the inner bearing is marked "BOWER" "L68149" "2L"; the inner seal is marked "National" "471854". The upper ball joint on what may or may not be a stock spindle is marked "8280" and the lower "8373: they are both bolted, not riveted. The caliper mounting bracket is C-shaped and crudely finished (edges rough and sharp). The shock absorber is painted white, has no label, and is marked "20814" "P6283C1P". The coil springs appear to have had a coil (or less) cut off and the lower A-arms angle up slightly from the frame. The suspension bushings appear to be original to the donor car and are dry and cracked where I can see them.
When I was by the Detroit Eaton Springs shop in September, the folks there examined the car and sold me a new set of springs that will bring the geometry back in line for the weight of the vehicle; the ride height and "hot rod rake" will still be good.
The reason I got started on this post was that the brakes always felt marginal; lot's of pedal travel and the pedal never got to the floor, but I never could get the brakes to lock up. I bled the brakes and adjust the pushrod, but no improvement and I'm not certain the vacuum booster even works. After depressing the brakes, the pedal would slowly return to it's full up position (but not while the engine wasn't running - it moved normally then) and the brakes would drag. I should also mention that originally there was a 2lb residual valve near the m/c in the front brake line, but not the rear (m/c mounted under the floor). I added one to the rear brake line with no noticeable change in braking. I also noticed that the fitting/line closest to the m/c mounting flange fed the rear brakes and this is reversed from what I had read for GM master cylinders. True?
So, I plan on replacing the coil springs and the front suspension bushings while I have things apart, but does anybody have an idea of what brake "kit" was used? A source for the power booster if I need one (how do I tell if it works or not?)? What rotors I have? And, most importantly, any idea of why brake performance is crappy? I'd like to fix it all now while it's apart.
Hoyt
The front suspension appears to be an original (not an aftermarket kit) Mustang II crossmember and arms. I suspect an aftermarket rotor and disc brake "system" but don't know the supplier. I looked for part numbers and I did annoy the counter guy at NAPA for a while to try to discover things. Here's all I found/know:
The brake master cylinder is a '74-vintage Corvette (NAPA 39052), the front brake calipers are from an '84 Camaro (NAPA 442-2032M, 422-2033M). The rears brakes are also Camaro calipers with an integral parking brake attached to a NOVA II diff. The power brake booster has no visible part numbers or markings and is 6-3/4" in diameter at the widest point. The front 10-1/2" ventilated rotors are marked with "81906" on the right and "81905" on the driver's side. The outer wheel bearing is marked "BOWER" "LM12749" "AT" and the inner bearing is marked "BOWER" "L68149" "2L"; the inner seal is marked "National" "471854". The upper ball joint on what may or may not be a stock spindle is marked "8280" and the lower "8373: they are both bolted, not riveted. The caliper mounting bracket is C-shaped and crudely finished (edges rough and sharp). The shock absorber is painted white, has no label, and is marked "20814" "P6283C1P". The coil springs appear to have had a coil (or less) cut off and the lower A-arms angle up slightly from the frame. The suspension bushings appear to be original to the donor car and are dry and cracked where I can see them.
When I was by the Detroit Eaton Springs shop in September, the folks there examined the car and sold me a new set of springs that will bring the geometry back in line for the weight of the vehicle; the ride height and "hot rod rake" will still be good.
The reason I got started on this post was that the brakes always felt marginal; lot's of pedal travel and the pedal never got to the floor, but I never could get the brakes to lock up. I bled the brakes and adjust the pushrod, but no improvement and I'm not certain the vacuum booster even works. After depressing the brakes, the pedal would slowly return to it's full up position (but not while the engine wasn't running - it moved normally then) and the brakes would drag. I should also mention that originally there was a 2lb residual valve near the m/c in the front brake line, but not the rear (m/c mounted under the floor). I added one to the rear brake line with no noticeable change in braking. I also noticed that the fitting/line closest to the m/c mounting flange fed the rear brakes and this is reversed from what I had read for GM master cylinders. True?
So, I plan on replacing the coil springs and the front suspension bushings while I have things apart, but does anybody have an idea of what brake "kit" was used? A source for the power booster if I need one (how do I tell if it works or not?)? What rotors I have? And, most importantly, any idea of why brake performance is crappy? I'd like to fix it all now while it's apart.
Hoyt