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Let it cure for a day or two and then wet sand it out with a block, just enough to roughen the paint and make it matte. You might try building a makeshift paint booth out of plastic around your part, enclose the entire thing top, bottom, sides, and tape the entire enclosure with the gun inside. This way you can shoot without even getting inside and stirring up the dust devil.
 

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One of the things you will find is that the new water based paints are meant to go on with HVLP guns as opposed to the old air atomized Binks/DeVilbiss style venturi guns. The paints are thicker and cover in only a few coats as opposed to a metallic Centauri which needed many coats to cover. The other thing you will find is that most of these paints are part of a system and mixing and matching primers, topcoats and clears is not advisable. Stick with one manufacturers system and you will have good results. The other item of interest is that most systems nowadays include a clear topcoat, this topcoat can be thought of a suntan lotion for the paint and should be applied unless the Mfg says it is safe to omit it. Maybe you would be better off ordering some "classic" paints from outside the state to reflect your equipment investment. One of the reasons for the higher costs for the paint is with a HVLP application method you won't need as much paint to finish the car, the overspray ratio is much lower and the number of coats is less.

[ April 24, 2002: Message edited by: 4 Jaw Chuck ]</p>
 
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