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I agree with 4 jaw chuck, I am I-car certified body tech. just let it cure and see what happens, usually the paint will cure and sometimes if your lucky the debree settles to the top or near it depending on the amount and size of the debree you can color sand it to death and get it smooth as glass, wash it down with some dish detergent to get all of the oils off laid down my your skin, enclose your prodject with some duct tape and some clear plastic for visability and sunlight, and if you have a house fan turn it outward so it blows most of the ooverspray and fumes outside so you can see and so the overspray doesn't settle on your slick paint, if you've got some of those cheap emergency blankets make the sides out of that(shiny side in) and the top out of clear plastic, this will get some heat in there (it helps if it gets a chill in the air). When spraying keep your wrist straight and the gun about 6-8" away, spray two light coats and then a heavier coat for the last, it should turn out like a peach. Let me know if you have any questions, and how it turns out
 

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Jimm, I know how you feel, here in SC the pollen is so bad my black car looks dark green, and if you don't wash it off every other day it embeds itsellf into our paint, heres two ideas to get your car painted without all the nasties and those pesky winged kamakazi bugs. Alot of bodyshops will rent out there paint booths for a small fee, shops around here charge $75 for 8 hours, if its a nice paint booth you won't need 8 hours after you paint it and turn on the heat it should be ready within 2.5-3. Or you could look for a trade school that teaches Auto body/painting, if you ask nicely they will usually let you use it for free, or maby a small fee just to feel as if they are apart of it somehow. Before I found a trade school I built my own makeshift booth from some 4x4's concreate block and some steel grate on the floor sheetrock for the walls coverd in aluminum flashing and some clear plastic for the top sealed with duct tape. fill the steel grate with water or just cover the floor, the steel grate adds little pockets so your feet don't splash the water up, but those pockets stop alot of the dust and pollen, add a small fan and a hot day and you good to go.
 

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It would work well in a carport, you just have to sit a layer of plastic under the top before you paint, the debree in the ceiling of the carport is a hazard, but if you do use a carport, you will need lots of ventalation and it has to be a hot/very warm day since your painting in the shade, I usually start taping at 10am and start to spray around 12:30 1 pm during the hottest part of the day. for vetalation you can use regular house fans I've seen them used often but keep them far enough away not to catch fresh spray, some have used old blower motors from heaters and just reversed it, whattever they can dig up. As for walls, you can put filters up, its actually better but not alot of people like the work. Go to a home depot or lows and get some filters, they are usually sold in a box containing 100 18" square filters just duct tape them together to make up your walls, they are made of course woven fibers they are usually a light seafoam color. As for the floor, unless you have a downdraft paint booth yes, soak your floor, it keeps whats down there down there and it attracts loose dust and dirt and keeps it there, if your floor isn't smooth, squeegie it off first so you don't have any splash up on your paint, if you do no worries most of it will evaporate and the rest you can color sand smooth. Always paint with a mask on, I use a 3M double filter version, you can get one for $45, never paint or letr fresh paint out below 70 degrees F, the clear will turn cloudy, the warmer the better, the dryer the better. So pick your painting days well and you'll have a good clean job.
 

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Heat is good yes, heat will allow your paint to "bake on" and with vetalation it will also draw the vapors out of the paint and at a high enough temp also helps to smooth the paint finish, what you did in the past is refferd to as "orange peel" thats the lack of paint applied or spraying to far away from the surface. 2 stage paint is the easiest to apply, I've always used PPG, its easy to use and spray, and its not very exspensive, I've nevver been to CA but I think your paint guy is a ripoff, I painted my entire 1969 charger the original dodge pea green, door jams trunk underhood and exterior for under $250 including thinner, clear, and buffing wheel and compound. Painting two stage paint is relatively simple, prepare your booth or spraying area (I.E. wet the floor sweegie it etc. etc. mix it spray 6-8 inches from the surface, keep your wrist straight, move with the gun don't stretch, paint the car one section at a time (front middle then rear, or vise versa) depending on the paint is how you apply it, with PPG I've always done two light coats then a heavier last coat to cover it,(remember 2 stage paint, the first stage isn't supposed to look shiny, just one color) give it flash time then clear it, you can color sand between coats of clear but if you lay on a smooth coat its not really nessasary, do however many coats of clear you would like. let the paint cure (depending on paint, is how long until you buff) (ask the guy you buy it from for the cure time on the paint before you buff it) and buff, after you buff use swirl remover, sit back in a beach chair in your driveway and smile really big and wave at the people passing by looking at your ride :cool:

Let me know how it turns out or if you need any other help.

[ April 24, 2002: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]

[ April 24, 2002: Message edited by: Halloweenking ]</p>
 
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