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I was doing some measuring anticipating my spring relocation kit. But I still am not sold on cutting the frame. So I started brainstorming and wondered if something like this would work. The spring mount would drop 2 1/8" in the front; and rear shackles would mount as normal relocate. Any engineers in the group? What effect would the leaf spring mounting 2 inches lower have on traction, stability, etc? Oh yeah; this is on a 1965 Dodge Dart and I will be tubbing the inner fenders as well.
 

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Dropping the front of the spring probably isn't a good idea. Along with changing the instant center you will be dropping the pinion angle by a goodly amount. This will have to be rectified with shims and it just ads another variable into your suspension. You would be much farther ahead to do the change as directed and keep the suspension geometry as designed...
Mark
 

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Philippines Cowboy
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If you're tubbing the car, I must assume you're going to do some serious drag racing. If so, I see no reason for fooling with the stock leaf setup in the first place; at least, not until you've done everything else to improve traction first. With a Mopar, the first thing I'd consider would be some swapping of the front torsion bars. It's a simple matter to install a higher rate RF bar and adjust to equal static rear tire loading. Then, check out the results with the traction dyno. See pages 5 & 7 of my blog:

http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope

If the traction dyno indicates there's still a little imbalance at the rear, you might consider the chain trick on Page 22.

Or, you could forget about swapping torsion bars and go back to the rear suspension. I'd recommend a 4BAR (not 4LINK) setup (especially if the car will see any service on the street), such as that sold by Morrison, with an adjustment described on Page 9. The Page 9 spreadsheet assumes symmetry, so don't use it if you've already gone to the "odd" torsion bar setup or are using a static preload. You would then have to adjust the 4bar using the traction dyno.
 
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