I found a puddle of antifreeze (350 SBC) by the front passenger wheel in my non heated garage. I bought the car a few months ago, and have not driven it due to doing some interior work. The radiator, water pump, heater & radiator hoses all appear to be dry with zero signs of leakage. The freeze plugs (that are visible) are intact and dry as well. I’m at a loss as to where the liquid originated.
Leaking Antifreeze
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Maybe the overflow tank, or the hose that goes to it?
If it is dripping sitting still, it should really squirt out under pressure.
Do you have a pressure tester?
If it is dripping sitting still, it should really squirt out under pressure.
Do you have a pressure tester?
I just rented a pressure tester.
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Pretty typical failure. probably an SOB to R&R as they are pretty buried in most heater system designs.
Its likely it is mounted in a plastic box thus electrically insulated except for the coolant. The system is collectively dependent on at least 50/50 to isolate electrolysis. So it’s important not to let coolant age.
Two other helps I found short of running waterless coolant is to replace the heater core with aluminum if available for your model and to wire the core to a chassis ground. The aluminum eliminates the metal matrix mix of brass and lead or tin based solder which is essentially a battery were the dissimilar metals are corroding because they exchange electrons.
Bogie
Its likely it is mounted in a plastic box thus electrically insulated except for the coolant. The system is collectively dependent on at least 50/50 to isolate electrolysis. So it’s important not to let coolant age.
Two other helps I found short of running waterless coolant is to replace the heater core with aluminum if available for your model and to wire the core to a chassis ground. The aluminum eliminates the metal matrix mix of brass and lead or tin based solder which is essentially a battery were the dissimilar metals are corroding because they exchange electrons.
Bogie
Put a bottle of bars leak in it , drive it until it drops ,maybe you'll move it down the road before it leaks again ! My old work truck went 7 or 8 years.. My current beater truck just went over 6 years with sealer in the radiator & the heater core . Friends boat has had blockseal in it for 10 years or so .
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Really hard to seal heater cores with a ‘stop leak’ treatment. Usually fail quickly if they seal at all. If you don’t really need heater, then plug heater lines with a appropriately sized piece of dowel rod with clamps on hose around rod. Looks correct but stops flow and leak. Gets you back on the road. If you need the heater, then pull all that oem heater/ac mess out and call Old Air or Vibtage Air.
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Good grief...how about just fix it properly....I have done several on the chevys and yes not fun, but it looks worse then it really is.... is this not a " car guys " site? Nothing worse then car guys advocating doing a " mickey mouse" job on something... fix it right and move on...
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Agreed.
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This car guy will give tips that work.
Even if it is a "car guy site", I'll keep my panties on if I like.
At least I'm not spewing out 4 and 6 cylinder drivel.
Hit them threads up. They're the threads that need help.
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Nothing Mickey Mouse about replacing the unit with a more modern and efficient unit. Plugging the lines does get him back on the road quickly unit he can do a more complete and proper job. Not sure what you mean about ‘car guys’ comments but hope it’s not for me.
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Lol I'm very familiar with vintage air as I have two of them ...as far as a modern update they could be . ( not sure what his rig is) but certainly not cheaper or easier to deal with vs fixing what he has now... as far as plugging off to get going I would consider that mickey mouse other then to get home for the day as no heat does not work well nor is it not safe in my neck of the the woods do to lack of visibility due to window fog. Cheers
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Sure bars leak may work...( I owed a auto parts store and full machine shop for years and sold plenty of the stuff) but the fact is fixing it properly works 100 percent of the time vs a " fix" in a can that sometimes works.. again most heaters cores look tougher then what they actually are. Fun? No...but being on a " car guys" site I would think most car guys would fix properly or maybe even improve upon( i.e the vintage air comment posted by another) but maybe thats just me...cheers
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We all have a different value systems , I don't disparage yours & you do the same for me , o.k. ?
Oh yea , there's no such thing as a 100% foolproof repair !
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Sure... I never mentioned values only you did. I only simply mentioned fixing properly vs mickey mouse and I find it surprising how many advocate a mickey mouse bandaid approach to a entirely fixable issue. Now if you want to debate values we can certainly debate the proper fix or as someone suggested send it down the road " fixed" with bars leak seal I'm sure they would let the potential buyer know the cooling system is good as" new" with that can of bars leak... if I ruffled your feathers please accept my deepest apologies as I was picking out no one in particular, but a general comment on the situation based on several " fixes" have a good evening.
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It would also helpful to know the specific car, because some make it really hard to replace a heater core.
- Replacing the heater core on my squarebody truck was slightly little more complex because I had to unbolt the inner fender to access one heater plenum bolt. But it was still a relatively easy job.
- However, to replace the heater core on my Ford expedition I had to unbolt the console and entire dash, swing it rearward to access and replace the heater core, and then reinstall it. The Ford dealer estimate was $1500 for the work because it included about a full day of labor and they wanted to also service the A/C.
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