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Hi all,

I have a general question. I am restoring a '66 Malibu and am wondering what I may need to do if I have to leave a panel stripped bare for any length of time? Is there something other than a primer that can be applied in between work sessions or something to that effect?

Thanks very much,

George
 

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It dose not take long for bare metal to flash rust in humid weather . I see you are down south so I am sure you will get flash rust very quickly . Until you can get some epoxy primer down , I would sand it back down before doing anything .
 

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we use to wipe the panel with dx520 (I think) if we couldn't get primer on it and protect it overnight. There is some warnings against using if also spraying an etch primer or on sandblasted surfaces I believe. Is others said your best bet would just to epoxy prime asap and then you won't have worries, then just reapply later on as needed. http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/docs/p-226.pdf
 

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ospho worked for me, when i stripped my nova piece by piece i sprayed some on the bare metal and it stopped rust from forming(i live in florida). as for how long it would last, i dont know because i generally sprayed epoxy on it within a week (after sanding it again, of course)
 

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Don't leave it for long

Speaking from very recent experience, you MIGHT get away with overnight before rust appears. I finalized all of the paint removal on a body recently late on a Friday evening. In stead of priming on Saturday morning couldn't get back to it until Monday - and had to completely DA and hand sand the @#*% car over again :sweat: . Instead of priming at 9:00AM it was 5:00PM before I could light up my spray gun. In Florida - good luck on more than overnight. Prime with something. I am a proud convert to epoxy. Nason works well and cures extremely hard, and is very difficult to sand after cure. SPI also works well but can be nicely sanded, I believe about as well as most acrylics and 2Ks - and I'm a novice.

Dave
 

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Get some Pickelx 20 and put it on.

The stuff is a bit pricey, but if you need to do significant metal work you will get the protection and other benefits you need. It also keeps you from having to take off the protective prime.
 

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Paintshop Dog
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The "protective primer" does not need to be removed if it is epoxy. Go with some kind of epoxy primer! You can put filler right over it. Even without sanding it if you are quick enough(check the window on the primer you use).
 
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As CMC said, just go with the epoxy. If you use either Ospho or Pciklex, you may have problems when you apply the epoxy later, or even worse, not know that you are having problems until the finish peels later.

I recently did a job on a car that had the easiest hood that I have sen for stripping. I used an air hose and blew the paint off. It had been treated with Ospho before the last paint job.

Aaron
 

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I think I know where you are coming from. Messing with a paint gun is pain for a small area, right??

The easy way. Mix a SMALL amount of epoxy, and use one of those throwaway spray bottles from NAPA. I forget the name, but they have a small aerosol charge on top, and a clear resevoir on the bottom for your primer. They cost about $10.00. When your done, toss it. The $10.00 you spent, will be save in electricity running your compressor, and the abrasives. Let alone your time. No cleaning. No messing with solvents. And the metal is protected. SOMETIMES, it will last a few days in the sprayer!
 

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Beenaway2long said:
I think I know where you are coming from. Messing with a paint gun is pain for a small area, right??

The easy way. Mix a SMALL amount of epoxy, and use one of those throwaway spray bottles from NAPA. QUOTE]

Consider a $12 (or whatever today's price is) Harbor Freight jam gun as well. An ounce or two of cheap lacquer thinner will clean it. If you forget, oh well, it's the price of a 12 pack of Bud. :D
 

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been a way to long is talking about a preval sprayer. Harbor frieght sells them cheap, under $5 I believe. Can't see them listed on their website though. It should work, but of course wont lay it as nice as a gun. They also have some other thing there where you can remove the top and recharge the can to spray. Never tried it, cause I just fire up the compressor and get out the touchup gun if I am doing a small spot.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1102
 

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Those Preval sprayers are great for small jobs. My local Sherwin Williams store carries them at good prices too.
 

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Nice thing about preval units.. just spray some laquer thinner through it and your done. or toss it. Either way, pretty hassle free. No compressor waking up the wife or neighbors at 11:30 a night. Just spray it, and walk away. It will end up being sanded, because you won't get back to it within its respray window, so you could lay it on anyway you want. Just a cheap, SIMPLE option. No you have NO excuse for walking away and leaving bare metal! LOL
 

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Some bad information has been given in this thread.

One person mentioned that you can put bondo products directly to epoxy if you do it in the recoat window.

Bondo ONLY works by mechanical adhesion (sanding scratches making a rough surface). If you put it directly to unsanded epoxy you wont be happy when it peels off later. Only other compatible paints can be applied to a previous paint within the recoat window. The paint will then chemically bond to the first coat.

As for peeling paint and metal prep. If you use metal prep properly, both Ospho and Pickel X, you will get stronger adhesion. I have found in talking to people that they tend to not follow directions. Failure to read and understand what you are working with tends to lead to failures of the product.

Products such as above will chemically etch the surface creating lots of surface area for the paint to flow into and latch onto when it cures.

For best quality work read and follow the directions. If someone tells you a 'better' way to use a product then you had best research the effects of their advice before using it. There is a lot of bad advice given with the best intentions.
 

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Check your technical data sheets (TDS) on the epoxy.. It is also a fact that I myself got railroaded just a few weeks ago trying to support your side of this argument. It turns out, that no it does not have to be sanded, and yes they do have a magnificent "chemical" adhesion! Now, with that said, I also sand the epoxy. A week is not a long enough window to single-handedly wipe and sand a complete car, as I regularly do. And, I like to use the epoxy like a guide coat to help with metal finishing. So I do sand it with 80 Grit. But, No you do not have to. :thumbup:
 
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"There is a lot of bad advice given with the best intentions."

I can't argue with that statement! That post is a prime example. On uncured epoxy, fillers are "compatable" products to apply and achieve a chemical bond. You might want to do a test and find out for yourself. Make sure you wait to test the adheasion until the epoxy has fully cured. If it falls off, it was a problem with the mixture or the application, not that it isn't compatable for a chemical bond.

If you are applying epoxy, prep the surface according to that epoxy manufacturer's recommendations. Simple as that. If you want to use Ospho or Picklex, go for it. If the paint starts to peel, don't say I didn't warn you.

I only try to provide the information, along with others here, to get the best results, with the least chance of failure. This is from my experience. Although some of the products and proceedures are new to me, the problems people have are not. Since I have only been doing body work off and on since the late 60's, ther are some here with more experienced than me. I also come here to learn from others.

Aaron
 

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datasheets write to wipe the excess picklex after 1minute. In pitts that's not possible. What I am doing is "sand" all the picklexed area with a scotch-brite (the stiff one wife is using for the saucepan) and then vac the white dust with the vacuum cleaner. Is that ok?
 
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