[4 Jaw Chuck]

I am probably going to get a buffing machine for Christmas (thank you Santa!) and would like to hear from everyone how they use their machine and what polishes or buffing compounds I should look at purchasing. I have a lot of experience painting the cars but not much polishing.

What pads should I buy?

Also what are the techniques/polishes for clear coated cars?

Whats your favorite finish polish, Mothers, Meguirs, Clay, Carnuba etc.? Explain your procedure?

How do you "Ming" a car? Do I need a heat lamp?

Can I polish at -20 Celcius or even 0 Celcius?

Thanks!

 

[Halloweenking]

Alright we are talking paint polishing not metal polishing correct, or both? The pads you will need to buy will depend on the type of finish, its age and the degree in which you intend to polish. On new paint I use a wool buff with the cutting abrasive and finish up with a black egg crate type foam pad and the finishing compound. On new paint I personally use 3M polishing compounds like their finishing compound and polishing compound found in opaque plastic bottles, they are a tanish looking polish. For older paint jobs or just a quick polish after paint to spruce it up a bit and you don't want or have any 3M, I use meguires No.7. When buying a buffer or polisher get a multi speed adjustable buffer with a sterdy feel, not the lightweight one speed plastic thing. When using the polisher never press down or put any weight on the buffer, let the buffers weight do all the work, if you put weight on it there is a very good chance you will burn through the paint. Also don't linger in one area, uniformly go over the surface as needed. Apply the compound to the pad and swirl it around the paint surface before you turn on the buffer. Be very carful around body lines and crowns as in this area the paint is thinnest and easiest to burn through. Never use an old used pad on fresh paint, depending on the pad and its age you could damage the fresh paint from contaminents in the wheel or leftover residue containing different pigments. If you go to meguires website they have many paint and polishing paint care tips as well. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things, but hey I'm doing good if I remember to eat.

HK

 

[paintman1]

I have been working in the paint shop for over ten years so i have done alot of buffing. On new paint I wet sand the areas I want to sand with 2000 grit sand paper(use alot of water)then I like 3M's perfect-it 2 compound. Not as grity as some of the other compounds but takes out sand scrathes pretty good. Then they have a polish (perfect-it 2 also) that works pretty good. They have a polish for light and dark colors. They both come in a black bottle. White top for light colors and a black top for dark colors. Use a wool pad for compound and a black foam pad for polish. Most buffing compounds are not supposed to freeze so buffing in extreme cold temperatures is not a good idea. I use this same system for old paint as well. If you dont want to use to compound, the polish will shine up old paint decent but wont take out to much of the scratches. I always put the compound directly on the area you are going to buff and then spread in with the buffer before turning it on . Your preference i guess. Then buff in a area about two feet by two feet and keep the buffer moving. Stay away from the edges. If you have to get near the edges, tape the edge of the adjacent panel and keep the rotation of the buffer wheel spinning away from the edge of the panel that you are buffing. This will help to keep the buffer from catching the edge. You can do the same on style lines. This is just how I do it but everyone is different. It has worked for me . Hope this helps.

 

[Will's41]

I bought the System One polish kit and Dewalt polisher from Eastwood, The polisher is a little heavy but over all it's a real good system.

 

[bullheimer]

dude, if it was me, i'd be buffin the paint right off every edge on the car. DOH!! OH YEAH "MING" is an old chinese vase! lol.

[ December 17, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>