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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yep, I know. I think I'm going to try some AC Delco units that are intended for 6-cylinder models, standard trans, no power stuff. They also fit a number of vehicles like a '91 Beretta which is a 2800-2900 pound car, some early Camaros and Novas. I'll have a big block up there with a 'glide and a radiator on a couple of rails - not much else. Car has a glass nose and doors.
 

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Posies Super slider springs always seem lite.

Of course those were only 2" wide so that helps.

Knowing what 55 chevy this is for and the modifications done to the axles/frame/suspension may provide more detailed responses.
 

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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's a hybrid of sorts. '55 210 body shell, Jegster 2x3 chassis with a ladder bar rear with coilovers. The frontend right now is the original '55 front clip that's devoid of just about everything but the rails. I am on the fence about it though as I have most of the frontend parts, tubular a-arms, steering, etc - just no springs yet but I also keep playing with the idea of a Mll front. This is strictly a drag car.
 

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Ok I was wondering why you were just not running/updating the factory IFS or if this had a solid beam front.

If your dealing with a fabricated frame then why not run wider leafs. Your talking about a bucket, shackle, and perches on the rear. But by going to 2.5 you open up a wider availability of spring rates/sizes.
Throw a set of caltrac in the rear and start playing with spring rate/shock setups.


On the front I would run IFS. Factory or aftermarket A arms(as cash allows) with coil overs replacing the old coils(as cash allows) eventually allowing for another level of adjustment.
 

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I have a set of those and they are far from being "lite weight" - they're actually much heavier than the stock springs.
I was thinking "light weight" meant for all fiberglass nose...a lightweight car, not the spring itself.
to fit a stock diameter spring pocket you are not going to find a lightweight option, you'd have to convert to coil over or rebuild the frame and a-arm spring pockets to accept a smaller diameter spring.....smaller diameter is the only way the spring itself is going to be lighter.

Unless you want to pony up the $$$$$$$$$$$ for a custom titanium wire spring. LOL
 

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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was thinking "light weight" meant for all fiberglass nose...a lightweight car, not the spring itself.
to fit a stock diameter spring pocket you are not going to find a lightweight option, you'd have to convert to coil over or rebuild the frame and a-arm spring pockets to accept a smaller diameter spring.....smaller diameter is the only way the spring itself is going to be lighter.

Unless you want to pony up the $$$$$$$$$$$ for a custom titanium wire spring. LOL
You had it right to begin with - the entire frontend on this car has probably shed well over 50% of it's weight so yes I was looking for a lite weight set of springs. There's two rails sitting there with a chopped up crossmember, a Mustang R&P and tubular As. There's a one piece glass front that I can pick up and walk around with.
The Jeep ones were pretty close and I could probably make them work with a little bit of grinder work. But the Moroso are a heavier set of springs not only in actual weight but in what they can support weight wise. I could cut them but I don't think I could cut enough to get the nose down on this deal. I have considered taking a look at stock 6 cylinder springs but I also keep playing with the idea of scrapping the stock stuff and using a Mll on it.
 

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Weight reduction is done with ounces not pounds.
You need to look at the entire car not the components.


I can drive around a track with just 200hp mocking someone in a 450hp ride.

The reason is that 200hp ride only weighs 1800lbs.

Now your biggest issue is your platform. If I wanted a lightweight 55 I would cut out the floor and make it a unibody convertable(you just lost all that glass) with lightweight cage and IRS to add rigidity. Run a all aluminum inline 4 turbocharged with peak torque higher in the rpm range to prevent breaking, a lightweight transmission suited to the driving needs, and a LSD rear diff capable of being on the edge of breaking before high dollar parts replaced the weak heavy ones.

Springs are one of those things you need to think about what they do and can only shave so much before things become unsafe or expensive.
 

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My suggestion would be that if you want to keep the suspension in stock configuration but lightweight parts, then assemble it up with just wood blocks in place df the spring to set your finished ride height, and assemble the whole deal to finished race weight and weight the front of the car.
Take that weight, required spring diameter, and the length of the wood blocks used for ride height length and call someone like Detroit Eaton Spring and get something made for it.

Whether this helps or not for any comparison.....the 6 cylinder spring for 64-67 Chevelle/68-74 Nova are pretty close to the same as the light Moroso spring is, just not as tall.
I'm thinking the Tri-5 front takes the same basic spring diameter and length?
 

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True Hotrodder
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My suggestion would be that if you want to keep the suspension in stock configuration but lightweight parts, then assemble it up with just wood blocks in place df the spring to set your finished ride height, and assemble the whole deal to finished race weight and weight the front of the car.
Take that weight, required spring diameter, and the length of the wood blocks used for ride height length and call someone like Detroit Eaton Spring and get something made for it.

Whether this helps or not for any comparison.....the 6 cylinder spring for 64-67 Chevelle/68-74 Nova are pretty close to the same as the light Moroso spring is, just not as tall.
I'm thinking the Tri-5 front takes the same basic spring diameter and length?
I think they are the same diameter, but not sure about the length though. I like the wood block idea, that could help me out a lot.
 

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At this piont get any springs in there that fit.

You can plan all day getting things close but until you get everything mounted up and all the weight in the thing you really can't even think about spring rates because it is very easy to add/move 1 or 200lbs. Heck if you move the engine a inch that will affect spring rate.

Right now you can throw some springs under it and record that lbs/inch rate. If it sits wrong or feels wrong once the thing moves then you can adjust.
But several people have bought springs or coilovers then replaced them once all the weight is on the tires.

What spring rate feels good to someone may feel harsh to someone else. It is like asking how loud a muffler should be. You can have 10 people with the same car and going to get at least 5 diffrent answers.

You have aftermarket A arms what kinds of springs were they designed to use?
 

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Any reason your intrested in a M2 over say a s10 or Dakota or aftermarket?
A M2 does have a few downsides that you should look into before pulling the trigger or selling your aftermarket stuff.
 

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I can see what your getting at, the MII stuff would give you better engine bay space and lighter weight.
I'm guessing right now you've got stock floor and frame to back edge of door/doorpost area, then 2" x 3" fabricated tube and beadrolled sheet floor from there back?? Or have you got more of the forward floor and frame gone?
 
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