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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for some help on wiring issues with my street rod. If anyone in the Nashville, TN area that knows about wiring please hit me up. I would like for someone to swing by my house to figure it out.
 

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You might be surprised by what can be solved here via photos and explanations. Especially since your audience is so much larger than those that would be willing to go to your house locally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for replying. I don't have any photos of this problem yet. When I try to start the car my volt gauge goes as far negative as possible. I removed all the fuses expect what would need to start the car but it still jump to the negative side. I think it's in the steering column switch but its brand new so I am not sure. Do you recommend a way to check this at the steering column switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The steering column is a GM Flaming River. The starter is a Jegs Prostarter 4.4.1. Handles up to 12.5.1 compression. The battery is located in the back on the passenger side and the power runs to a solenoid mounted on the firewall. I have a MSD 6al box and a blaster 2 coil. The problem seems to be when trying to start the car. The gauges loose power for just a second and the amp gauge goes totally negative. The motor spins over just find but it doesn't have enough spark for start. I have checked the wiring 5 times now and cant seem to find it. This kinda stuff will drive you crazy.
 

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Seeing the car turns over, have you checked for spark while cranking? Maybe, just maybe your key switch is not sending power to the coil. I am a very rusty but I thought on many cars when you turn key to start, a wire carried power to coil. Once car starts and you release the key a different wire completes the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Seeing the car turns over, have you checked for spark while cranking? Maybe, just maybe your key switch is not sending power to the coil. I am a very rusty but I thought on many cars when you turn key to start, a wire carried power to coil. Once car starts and you release the key a different wire completes the circuit.
I will definitely check into this weekend and see if I can narrow it down. Thanks so much for the advise.
 

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Hotrod38, the ignition switch must have 12v on the coil in both the on and starting position. The amp gauge should “go to negative” while starting. That is showing a discharge on the system, which is happening as the starter is put under a load. Once started the amp gauge should move to either 0 or slightly to the positive of 0. Loosing power to the gauges tells me that when in the starting position that there isn’t 12v on the gauge wire, probably not the coil either. Check the wiring and draw a little drawing of what wires are on the ignition switch and to where they go. There are some mighty fine wiring guys here.
 

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With the key on I have 12.75 volts but in the start position its 8.5 volts. Not sure if this is enough voltage to kick the 6al box in?
The Instructions I found online says it can produce full voltage with 9-18v. Is there a resistor wire in you ignition (coil, 6al) circuit? These items need full voltage. No resistor wire is used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The Instructions I found online says it can produce full voltage with 9-18v. Is there a resistor wire in you ignition (coil, 6al) circuit? These items need full voltage. No resistor wire is used.
No resistor wire except the one from the alternator and its a diode feeding back to the battery.
 

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Yes, but the spark is orange and not white or blue so I am assuming this could be my battery if I am only getting 8.5 volts at the start mode.
Are you measuring the voltage on the starting circuit of the ignition switch or the battery? It could be your battery, testing at the battery itself while cranking will tell you that. If on the starting circuit, you may have a degraded contact on the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, at the ignition switch and had 8.5 volts there. After reading more on the 6al box , they are recommending 10volts at the state mode. I will pickup a new battery this weekend so I am praying that this is the culprit.
 

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Yes, at the ignition switch and had 8.5 volts there. After reading more on the 6al box , they are recommending 10volts at the state mode. I will pickup a new battery this weekend so I am praying that this is the culprit.
Are you checking voltage “at” the battery during cranking? That’s where you’ll know if the battery is weak or bad. Put your leads on the battery and have someone crank it. You can make longer leads with wire if you are working alone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Are you checking voltage “at” the battery during cranking? That’s where you’ll know if the battery is weak or bad. Put your leads on the battery and have someone crank it. You can make longer leads with wire if you are working alone.
Are you checking voltage “at” the battery during cranking? That’s where you’ll know if the battery is weak or bad. Put your leads on the battery and have someone crank it. You can make longer leads with wire if you are working alone.
Ok. When I'll check to be sure tonight. Thanks
 
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