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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am building a 8th mile drag car. It is a tube chassis from Jegs and Jegster front end. The body is a 1979 Triumph Spitfire, That will run a small block chevy 383. I was able to pick this engine up at a steal, it is a short block. Eagle (looks forged) steel crank, scat hardned i beam rods, 13:1( with 64cc heads) pop up KB pistons and all the good rings and bearings etc. Has never been ran, guy was laid off from work and had to sell it. I am looking for a awesome combo for this car and engine. I have some things laying around in the shop like ,I have a turbo 350 tranny from TCI I could use and a set of AFR aluminum heads...210 runners, 205/165 valves, 600 lift springs. I also have the MLS head gaskets for it. drag race oil pan w/ windage tray 7 doors ,crank scraper,HV oil pump and a oil and heat deflector for the lifter valley. The rear end is stub 9 inch ford 38 sline strange axels but no 3rd member yet. I am looking for ideas on a cam, intake,gear, stall,carb etc.. any information you guys are willing to give me would be awesome!
 

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I am looking for ideas on a cam, intake,gear, stall,carb etc


I would call edelbrock that way they could match you up with the correct combo on the cam and the intake. I would think a holley 750 dp would work well for the motor. the intake will depend on the cam b/c you will want ten to make as far as rpm's. on the gear side are you wanting to have more top end or are you wanting quicker 60ft and 330ft times???
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
60 foot times, Thanks for the info I have a few ideas and I called Jegs and a few other places, I just wanted to see if anyone had any new trick combo's that these places don't tell you. I don't want what everyone else has and that's what you get when you call these guys. The same old Combo.
 

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BestDamnGarageInTown said:
I am building a 8th mile drag car. It is a tube chassis from Jegs and Jegster front end. The body is a 1979 Triumph Spitfire, That will run a small block chevy 383. I was able to pick this engine up at a steal, it is a short block. Eagle (looks forged) steel crank, scat hardned i beam rods, 13:1( with 64cc heads) pop up KB pistons and all the good rings and bearings etc. Has never been ran, guy was laid off from work and had to sell it. I am looking for a awesome combo for this car and engine. I have some things laying around in the shop like ,I have a turbo 350 tranny from TCI I could use and a set of AFR aluminum heads...210 runners, 205/165 valves, 600 lift springs. I also have the MLS head gaskets for it. drag race oil pan w/ windage tray 7 doors ,crank scraper,HV oil pump and a oil and heat deflector for the lifter valley. The rear end is stub 9 inch ford 38 sline strange axels but no 3rd member yet. I am looking for ideas on a cam, intake,gear, stall,carb etc.. any information you guys are willing to give me would be awesome!
OK, this is just shootin' from the hip, but a couple things jumped out at me.

1. 13.0:1 static c.r. This is gonna require a cam with somewhere around 270-280 degrees duration @ 0.050" tappet lift. Such a cam is gonna make power from 5000-8000. How's that Eagle crank gonna like that time after time? Maybe it's a stout piece. I don't know, but haven't read a lot of good from the professional builders on this site about Eagle stuff. Never used one myself. A cam like this will require a 5000+ stall.

2. Pop-up pistons. Never have been a fan of big pop-ups. Prefer flat to small rise (maybe 0.100") due to flame propogation characteristics across the chamber. Whoever built the short block probably used 6" rods or longer. I also don't care for the pin up into the oil ring. You have to use ring supports and that's just more parts to go wrong in my opinion. Please read this article written by Ron Iskenderian. Scroll down to Tech Tip-2005.....
http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.php

3. Scat I-beam rods. Might be OK, don't know. I might choose a little better H-beam rod if I were doing a motor to this degree.

4. A car this light might be quicker with a 'glide/trans brake than with a TH350/trans brake.

Just doin' some figurin' on the gear. Figuring 9% converter slippage, 4.30 gear and 32" tire, the car would mph at 140 spinnin' the crank at 7000 through the eyes (1/4 mile). This would equate to a mid-9 second E.T.

Same rpm and tire would go through the eyes at 6.20/114 in the 1/8th with a 5.30 gear.

Now, don't buy stuff based on what I have said. I'm just gettin' you in the ballpark. Do your own research. Ask other racers what they're using at the track you plan to run on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OOOhhh, man I don't know if the bottom end will hold up to that kind of spanking all the time. Ould I have to have a cam so big, because of the CR? I think your right on the P.glyde, I was thinking the same thing but wow are they $$$$! Good stuff though!
 

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[QUOTEHow's that Eagle crank gonna like that time after time? Maybe it's a stout piece. I don't know, but haven't read a lot of good from the professional builders on this site about Eagle stuff.]QUOTE]


I HAVE HEARD ALOT OF BAD STUFF ABOUT EAGLE MOVING ALL OF THERE OPERATIONS OVER SEAS. I WOULD USE A SCAT SCRANK OR IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON A GOOD GM STEEL CRANK YOU MIGHT BE BETTER OFF. I USE A STEEL CRANK OUT OF A 396 OR A 402 AND I HAVE EAGLE I BEAM RODS AND POP UP PISTONS WITH 14 -1 CR AND I TURN IT AT 7OOO RPM'S WITH NO PROBLEM I WOULD USE A POWER GLIDE FOR THE TRANNY TOO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did not know eagle cranks went over seas nor that they were bad cranks. I don't know about this crank. It is a used crank that the man had turned, so I don't know if it is from here or there. You use a 396 BB crank in a SB? How? Did I miss something? I have used these kind of scat i beam rods before in a 7000 rpm engine and they held up nice, then again I have used GM x rods in a 7000 rpm engine back in the day for two seasons and they held also so who's to say. The stock crank I used in that motor didn't like the rpms it only lasted half a season and replaced it with a steel seemed O.K but I was always wondering when it was going to let go. You know those budget builds!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was looking last night at a lower comp piston. What about these claimer pistons? What is the story on those things? You can get a set for cheap! I just don't know anything about them and have not started any research on them yet. They are not forged I see, So no NOS.
 

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no I use a 396 crank in a bbc. and its a stock steel crank and it has held up fine for the 4 yrs I have had it. I wouldn't use claimer they are cheap. I have heard good things about scat rods and cranks if don't want to use stock or eagle
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Heck I was thinking that the Eagle steel crank was better than stock steel crank. I may leave it in and try it but I just don't want to mess up the block if the thing flies apart, it's a bowtie block. These are good things to know though! I always heard that eagle was a good crank, but then again I didn't know they went over seas. How long have they been making them over seas?
 

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I don't know thats what I have heard. I have also heard on this site that eagle has gone down hill some so I don't know you be the judge of the crank I would hate to say yea use that one and your motor scatters. YOu will want to make sure it is a steel crank not a cast because you will have things flying around. What type of heads are you going to use??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
You know what.... I was looking for numbers on this crank to research it and I noticed a big S stamped in it, There is also the name SUNREY stamped on it! I may have been screwed or the machine shop swaped cranks on him! I know this man very well and trust him to tell me the truth so I don't think he knows either! Ever heard of SUNREY? I also can't find any #'s on it.


Ok scratch that... I found the #'s, They were laser etched and I couldn't see them without my shop light. It is a Eagle #'s are 383-C and there are S-05-11-146
 

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this is what I founf when I googles sunrey crankshafts

TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Thanks for all the info guys. I called Eagle and they said that it doesn't have to say "Eagle" on it. I told them that mine says "Sunrey" and they said that it IS one of their cranks. It doesn't have a forging line and he said that it's the way they are. Thanks again.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Seems that Sunrey is most likely Eagle's Chinese sub-contracted manufacturer:
http://www.findownersearch.com/brand/3482636
 

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SUNREY


Owner: SICHUAN MIANZHU GREAT WALL INDUSTRY & TRADING CO., LTD. Owner Details
Owner Address: 5th Floor, Shangri-La Hotel South Ziyan Street, Mianzhu Sichuan Province, 618200 CHINA

Description: Automobile engine parts, namely, cylinder sleeves, oil pumps, piston pins, crankshafts, valves, bearings, condensers, pistons, valve tappets, camshafts, harmonic balancers, automobile connecting rods, valve seats, radiators, and valve spring shims
 
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