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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I suspected the flywheel came loose on my little bugg...three of the four dowel holes in the crank and flywheel are slightly wollowed....I was thinking mabee I could JB weld them back in and the glue will fill the voids... then use loc tight on the big center bolt...sound good? Next ...I noticed oil between the pressure plate and clutch ..looked closer and the rear seal looks to be leaking a little...it looks ez to pull out and replace.....is it? this is my first time working on a bugg and it aint as ez as everyone said but after four hours this morning its all tore down I'd like to get it back together tomorrow
 

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Steel Dreams
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deadbodyman said:
As I suspected the flywheel came loose on my little bugg...three of the four dowel holes in the crank and flywheel are slightly wollowed....I was thinking mabee I could JB weld them back in and the glue will fill the voids... then use loc tight on the big center bolt...sound good? Next ...I noticed oil between the pressure plate and clutch ..looked closer and the rear seal looks to be leaking a little...it looks ez to pull out and replace.....is it? this is my first time working on a bugg and it aint as ez as everyone said but after four hours this morning its all tore down I'd like to get it back together tomorrow
If the holes are wallowed in both the crank and the fly wheel it is doubtful that you will be able to make it stay tight. I have had luck in the past by changing the fly wheel to one that was not elongated and new gland nut, cleaning every thing and locktiting everything . If I remember right the gland nut is torqued to 200 foot pounds.This is usually the problem in the first place.It is not tightened enough the last time it was pulled and it will work lose.If the dowel holes in the crank elongate you usually wind up changing the crank.............but sometimes you get lucky.
You said it took you 4 hours to tear it down, that's about 2 hours too long .....Just funing you ,the next time you can do it in 2 hours or less. I was a VW line mechanic for 10 years. I got to where I could change a clutch set in 45 mins. Thats pull the motor ,change the clutch and release bearing and put the motor back in,adjust the clutch and test drive it. Ahhhh.........to be young again!
Good Luck!
Kenny
Opppps, forgot on the seal ,it is easy to change,large screwdriver or thin blade pry bar and pry using the crank as a fulcrum . To put new one in use a large socket or pipe to right size and gently drive it in till it is flush with the block. The oil probably leaked tru the gland nut because it was lose.....but change it any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response shellby,I'll get a new flywheel,dowels,gland nut,and seal...then a little prayer...cant hurt,I really hate mechanical work ,especialy something I,ve never done.But 45 min? It took an hour just to find the four bolts that hold it to the transaxel,40 years of crud but the flywheel and clutch look new,I guess thats where the problem comes from...Thanks again....Mike O.
 

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Steel Dreams
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deadbodyman said:
Thanks for the quick response shellby,I'll get a new flywheel,dowels,gland nut,and seal...then a little prayer...cant hurt,I really hate mechanical work ,especialy something I,ve never done.But 45 min? It took an hour just to find the four bolts that hold it to the transaxel,40 years of crud but the flywheel and clutch look new,I guess thats where the problem comes from...Thanks again....Mike O.
Mike when you work on something day in and day out you get fast ...and when you make your living by how fast you can do some operation that you are getting paid by flat rate hour out of a rate book you do it as fast you can .I was not as fast as some of the mechanics there, I wanted what ever I worked on to be right because if it came back you did for free. Plus the way I saw it the customer deserved to get what they paid for.
Good Luck and if you run into problems post back and you will get help there are very knowledgeable people on this site.
Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well Ken,I cant get the parts today,I'll have to go to the dealer for everything but the flywheel...so there was one thought though...it looks like I just install the clutch and pressure plate then turn the motor over till it lines up...is this right or do I need a tool to line them up with the tranny shaft? I sure wish there was an access cover on the tranny.those dowel pins seem like a weak link for such a dependable car,seems like bolts would be a better way to go...
 

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Steel Dreams
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deadbodyman said:
Well Ken,I cant get the parts today,I'll have to go to the dealer for everything but the flywheel...so there was one thought though...it looks like I just install the clutch and pressure plate then turn the motor over till it lines up...is this right or do I need a tool to line them up with the tranny shaft? I sure wish there was an access cover on the tranny.those dowel pins seem like a weak link for such a dependable car,seems like bolts would be a better way to go...
Mike you need a tool to line the clutch disc in the center of the fly wheel and pilot bearing. You can do it by eye balling it but it usually winds up being off a tad and you have to rock the motor side to side and up and down and rotate the motor to get to line.You run the risk of screwing something up(clutch disc ,pilot bearing and poss pressure plate)so in my opinion use a splinted line up tool and do it right. What I used was the input shaft out of a junk trans and welded a bar across the cut end to make a t handle. I think most of the larger auto supply's have plastic ones for just about any make of car. Or you may can borrow or rent one from a local VW mechanic.
I agree on the dowel pins it is a very poor design on a otherwise neat simple design. But oh well as the old saying goes you can't win them all.
I bought one that had been rolled .I stripped it down to the pan then decided to make a sand rail which I rolled on three different occasions . Would still have but my wife conned me into swapping it for another Bug that we drove for another 5 years. Tough little cars.
Good Luck!
Kenny
 

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Flywheel

One option you have for elongated holes is to have another set of dowel holes drilled. High performance bug engines usually have 8 dowels in the crank and flywheel. Most VW machine shops can do it. I'm not sure if the crank can be drilled while it is still in the case. There is a difference between 6 volt flywheels and 12 volt flywheels as far as rear seals...make sre you get the right setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Shelby1 said:
Mike you need a tool to line the clutch disc in the center of the fly wheel and pilot bearing. You can do it by eye balling it but it usually winds up being off a tad and you have to rock the motor side to side and up and down and rotate the motor to get to line.You run the risk of screwing something up(clutch disc ,pilot bearing and poss pressure plate)so in my opinion use a splinted line up tool and do it right. What I used was the input shaft out of a junk trans and welded a bar across the cut end to make a t handle. I think most of the larger auto supply's have plastic ones for just about any make of car. Or you may can borrow or rent one from a local VW mechanic.
I agree on the dowel pins it is a very poor design on a otherwise neat simple design. But oh well as the old saying goes you can't win them all.
I bought one that had been rolled .I stripped it down to the pan then decided to make a sand rail which I rolled on three different occasions . Would still have but my wife conned me into swapping it for another Bug that we drove for another 5 years. Tough little cars.
Good Luck!
Kenny
I dont know why but I love driving that little bug, no air, no heat no power, sure are fun though,and EZ to restore.
 

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Bug

They are a fun little car...not to mention easy to work on and cheap to repair compared to new cars. I've had several sandrails and 1 baja...loved em all...and fun to drag race as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think I found the cause of my flywheel problem,"no shims". When ordering the parts from so cal I noticed three shims in the assembly that wernt in mine,since the clutch and pressure plate looked new,I figure they were left out.Are they important?why three thin ones instead of one thick one?
 

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deadbodyman said:
I think I found the cause of my flywheel problem,"no shims". When ordering the parts from so cal I noticed three shims in the assembly that wernt in mine,since the clutch and pressure plate looked new,I figure they were left out.Are they important?why three thin ones instead of one thick one?
Mike the shims are used to set crankshaft end play,in other words reduce the slack or free play to a specified tolerance.
And RSM is correct you can have new pin holes drilled between the old ones, and I seem to remember a drill fixture you could buy(rent?) and redrill the holes with the crank installed in the motor. I will do some checking with some old friends that use to work on VW's as my memory is not what it once was.
Good Luck!
Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've used that silly putty stuff to measure valve clearance in cylinders will that work for end play on a crank? how does one determine what amount of shims are to be used? I imagine all motors will have differnt values.Thanks for your time,I've never had a problem that someone on this site couldnt clear up,You guys are pretty cool. :thumbup: :thumbup:
 

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deadbodyman said:
I've used that silly putty stuff to measure valve clearance in cylinders will that work for end play on a crank? how does one determine what amount of shims are to be used? I imagine all motors will have differnt values.Thanks for your time,I've never had a problem that someone on this site couldnt clear up,You guys are pretty cool. :thumbup: :thumbup:
Mike to measure crank end play ,the only way I have did it or heard of it being done is with a dial indicator .I had one that came from VW that bolted tru one of the top motor mount holes but any indicator that can be mounted solid and can measure the movement of the fly wheel will work. I don't remember the spec for this ......maybe in the .003 to .006 (?) range . I'm sure that someone else on here will know ,if not call the dealer or a local VW shop and they can tell you. You will need a assortment of shims and a micrometer to measure the shims.
It goes like this ...put the flywheel on the motor without the seal or the shims.Tighten the gland nut just good and snug,mount your dial indicator and pry the flywheel away from the block with a large screwdriver or pry bar ,adjust the indicator to touch the fly wheel and zero the meter, push the flywheel away from the indicator and read the meter,this will be the total movement of the shaft. Now you have to come up with the right thickness of shims to put between the flywheel and the rear main bearing to get the right free play of the shaft. Do the check of the movement of the shaft at least a couple of times to make sure you get the right readings. When you are satisfied the readings are right install the seal ,shims and flywheel and gland nut and torque down to the required torque and continue on with the rest of your installation.

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
thats simple enough,I guess its time to get a repair book for tolerances...this little weekend project sure has been a learning experiance. I guess it's a good thing the parts wern't readily available,I'd be doing it twice. Thanks !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well,I gotter all back together today couldnt find the gas line...In knew I disconnected one..then I saw the little tube coming out of the frame,Those germans are sneaky son of a guns.It started right up...no problems...BTW the shims were in,I just couldnt see them until I pulled out the seal,I simlpy replaced the one the flywheel beat up, I used my little grinder to resurface the crank and flywheel mating surfaces,new dowel pins, seals,gland nut and wavey washer...still took four hours...but I've been driving it around the shop for two hours having a blast,so it was worth it.Sure would be fun to build a sand rail. Thanks for all the help
 

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Great ! Glad we could help. If you can work out the time and money to build one ,build yourself a sand rail.Every one needs to have at least one in their hotrod life .I had more fun in the one that I had than just about any thing that I ever drove.
Kenny
 
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