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Discussion Starter #1
I've just installed this engine in my father truck.I originally had it in mine.But after breaking it in and running it for 8,000 miles I decided I'd put a more powerfull engine in mine and give him my old one.I just after running it.Checked vacuum it was at 20"at idle.I adjusted the valves because a few rockers were loose.Now the Vacuum is at 14-15".I tried adjusting Idle mix, timing,Idle rpm,Vacuum advance(I needed to set these anyway).Still the same.Also it tend to have a slight lope in its idle(almost like its missing).And I can hardly hear the sound coming out of the pipes.When you put it in gear.The idle drops down.And acts like it wants to die.It drives fine it's got no problem getting up and going.plugs,wires are new.The distributor was new when I built the engine.Im going out to look at it again.But im not sure what else to check.Also I noticed when adjusting the valves.That the drivers side.The oil looked and felt like it had water in it.There camel bumps 2.02/1.60 from 1968.Does anyone think changing the heads would get rid of this problem?
 

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Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
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Yep. You said it was at 20", then you adjusted valves and it was at 14-15". Sounds like the culprit to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Its possible.I know one of them is still ticking.So I might try to readjust them again and see where it goes.If that does'nt get it.What else Should I look for? I've been having a hard time hearing those valves.Over the gear drive and exaust.Any tips? :sweat:
 

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Known traffic menace
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You could always adjust them cold if you can't hear them, Thats what I do but I'm almost deaf so I can't hear them very well myself. Perry
 

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Race it, Don't rice it!
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Do the above way, less mess, don't have a oil fire, smoked up lungs, and you don't have to go back and do over later either.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I readjusted them hot.And vacuum is at 16.5.But im thinking of trying to do it cold.Does anybody have a suggestion how to do this with the motor in the car?
 

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You'll hear all kinds of different ways to do this, but here's how I do it and it's bulletproof.

Remove both valve covers and all the spark plugs to make the motor easier to turn over. Put a socket on the harmonic damper retainer bolt head with a long ratchet bar so the motor is easy to turn over by hand. Turn the motor clockwise until the intake valve on #1 is fully open (spring compressed). Now, turn the crank one full turn and release the pressure on the rocker of that valve until the pushrod is loose. Grasp the pushrod with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand an jiggle it straight up and down, but with NO pressure. Slowly tighten the rocker nut while jiggling the pushrod. If you push down with any pressure whatsoever, you can begin to depress the internal spring in the lifter, which you DO NOT want to do. Just take up the play between the lifter pushrod cup and the underside of the rocker arm. When you have eliminated all the play, give the nut 1/2 additional turn clockwise. Now, turn the crank 1/4 turn (90 degrees) clockwise and adjust the intake valve on #8 cylinder. Now, another 1/4 turn and adjust #4 intake, then just follow the rest of the firing order while turning the crank 1/4 turn each time. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. After you've done all the intakes (it helps to stand at the side of the motor to determine which valve is the intake and which is the exhaust, or get a Motors Manual and lay it out to look at), start back at #1 cylinder, fully depress the exhaust valve, turn the crank one full turn clockwise and adjust it. Continue the same way for all the exhaust valves and you should be ok.
 
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