My68Vette said:
Ok, I brought it up to TDC and the rotor was very close to the #1 terminal * snip* now I cant even get a cough out of it
The plugs could be too fouled by this point.
Don't worry- you will get it running again.
To start with, if you have a battery charger, top up the battery. All the cranking will deplete the voltage during cranking to the ignition, you don't need this.
What you described in your first post sounds like you were on manifold vacuum, but then switched it to ported. You sure this isn't the case?
Take all the plugs out and clean them. Start by spraying them down w/carb cleaner, dry, then if you have a wire wheel, or a small wire brush, give them a brushing. Check that the gap's OK.
Crank the engine over a few times to expel any fuel that might be left in the cylinders, take your time while the plugs are out, you want the gas to be out of there, use compressed air if available to blow into the spark lug holes to speed up evaporation.
All the gas in the cylinder deal is likely not necessary, but sure as I say that, you'll have a cup of gas in there from a stuck float or some such!
Check all the vacuum lines to be sure they're all hooked up or plugged. A vacuum gage would be good to have- you might see that you have an intake gasket leaking.
From here, (still no timing light, right?) you should check the timing, lacking a light, you'll have to settle for it being close enough to run. The distributor hasn't turned? It's not loose- as in , you can't easily reach over and twist it, right?
Check the float level. If a float has stuck, or the needle valve/seat is clogged open- it can flood.
After all that- when the battery's fully charged, put the plugs back in, wire them correctly (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2; CW rotation), cylinder 1 is drivers side, front, #2 is passenger front, alternating back and forth till #8, passenger side, rear.
Hopefully, it'll start.