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I just got back from Home Depot after looking at 1/8" masonite for my headliner board. It felt like it would be kind of heavy to use. The only thermoply they had was 1/2". I have a 1968 Rambler Rogue and the headliner only has support around the edges. I'm afraid that the masonite would sag in the middle. Any suggestions?
 

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Don't know how that Rambler headliner is shaped but if you can form Masonite to fit, you can substitute 1/8" plywood which is much more resistant to sagging. It is also a lot lighter as well as being stronger. Comes in 4'x8' sheets but if it is big enough, get a 'door skin'. Quite a bit cheaper than the big sheet and still the same stuff.

Oh, and welcome to the board!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Headliner is about 47" X 61". I thought about doing it in 3 pieces. Cover the seams with a piece of trim and use screws to connect it to the interior roof braces. I didn't see 1/8" plywood, but will check again.
 

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I believe this is correctly spelled "lauan" plywood. It may also be called "Meranti" or even "Mahogany". It has been imported for many years and originates in Malaysia or Indonesia.
 

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around here I use eighth inch rotory mahogany 48x96 inch or door skin approx 36x80 much lighter and stonger than masonite .and as an added bonus cheap as dirt .it also works very well for backing door panels etc.
 

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If you are concerned about sag I usually weld in a cross strap about mid way in the car from side to side on the flange that is formed at the top of door surrounds.

I will usually put two in a wagon. I use a bead roller to put two beads in to add so rigidity and place the beads on the top side. If you are splicing a board I would definately do a support at the splice point. Then I add heavy grip velcro to hang it in the middle. There is stuff out there that will support body panels.

There are other materials that work well too. But they are less cost effective. You can use ABS sheeting. Or Oil board as I mentioned is a post somewhere else in here but the lauan is the most cost effective but will only give you 1 bend direction. If I want a more contoured shape I mount the main board to the support temporarily to the supports down the center and then "Glass" the sides in while its in the car. Then you can take the thing down and wrap it. The glass will flex more than the board so I make sure I leave as much as I can open before I glass so I can flex then sliding it in and out.
 

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Couple of Thoughts

Believe it or not, much of this mahogany is being processed in Israel now days - Wierd hah. A possible idea or I may get someones thought process going here. When glassing or joining this plywood, try epoxy resing. Also, you can join a middle section to stiffen and strengthen by laminating the 2 sections together with a small section gluing the 2 together in the middle - often called a butt block.
 

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Butt Block is another good comment. Fundemental rule is how to get it in or get it out is the first concern (without damage). One peice or 2 or more depending on style and details. If you cover it and cant get it in what good is it. And if you cant get it out to cover it same thing. The staps I mentioned are key because they allow for increased flex to install and increased support on installed part. Ever see one fall down when a guy/gal is crusin'? I have it is funny unless it is you or the guy/gal gets hurt.
 
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