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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At the moment I am prepping a vehicle for a silver hologram flake re paint. I have not yet flaked a whole car so I am wondering.

Do I paint panel by panel getting the coverage even?

Or

Do I paint the car in the same way as any other job coat by coat with a 50% over lap?

I am a little bit nervous as I want it to be right first go. I am putting the flake in an intercoat clear just in case I have to remove any mistakes.

Your thoughts & experience please guys.
 

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Steve UK said:
At the moment I am prepping a vehicle for a silver hologram flake re paint. I have not yet flaked a whole car so I am wondering.

Do I paint panel by panel getting the coverage even?

Or

Do I paint the car in the same way as any other job coat by coat with a 50% over lap?

I am a little bit nervous as I want it to be right first go. I am putting the flake in an intercoat clear just in case I have to remove any mistakes.

Your thoughts & experience please guys.
Metaflake/Candies are the hardest to panel paint and match. You're better off to shoot all the pieces at once to get the coverage even.

The biggest issue is if you have the exterior removable panels (doors, hoods, etc...) off the car to shoot them these panels HAVE to be painted in the correct position they will be mounted in so that the flake flops the same way.
 

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The most important thing about getting a transparent colors right is consistency! As Rambo stated make sure everything is in the correct position. Then however you are comfortable, spray all the way down the side stroke by stroke or panel by panel, just concentrate on making every stroke the same on every piece. the same pressure, the same distance away, the same speed, the same over-lap, the same fan, etc. Watch not to over-lap too much on corners and edges. If you spray it all the same it will be the same color. :thumbup:

You can do it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thats good advice guys, thanks.

I am going to build the car bumpers & all put on loose. When the flake will be put on in the intercoat clear I am going to give a final coat of I C(no flake) then disassemble. I will then shoot 2 coats of clear, bake & flat that & re clear the whole thing. Then flat & polish!

How much flake per pint? I have a iwata w100A, 1.8 set up.
 

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hi steve, first, if you are spraying medium to large flake you will be way better off putting it in a clarcoat with slow activator than intercoat clear especially if you are using hok sg100.it will be fine if you are putting on very little flake but if you plan on really flaking it out there is the possibility of failure down the road. basecoats are weak and with the larger stuff you really should have the strength of a clearcoat holding it all together. second, you will need more than 2 coats afterward to burry the flake. 2 coats technically will do it but you'll end up burnig through everywhere. dont be afraid of the clear. do about 4 coats, block then reclear. # of coats also depends on the solid content of the clear. you should be using a good high solids clear for flake. as far a mix ratio, you need to figure that out on your own. it all depends on how much you want on the car. i usually mix it up so i get the desired effect in 2 medium wet coats. your going to need to shoot some test panels to get the mix you want. you dont want to dust the stuff on as the flakes will be standing up all over the place. 2 coats of flake then 4 coats over it. this should be all in one clear session. adjust your flash times for the extra coats and use a slower activator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks mrcleanr6, all points taken.

So if I am going to use 2k clear as a carrier am I going to put it down in straight line coats? Almost as if I am spraying a huge metallic job but with more spaces in between the flakes? Dont suppose you fancy a chat about it if I pay for the call? This job is so important to me!
 

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Steve UK said:
Thanks mrcleanr6, all points taken.

So if I am going to use 2k clear as a carrier am I going to put it down in straight line coats? Almost as if I am spraying a huge metallic job but with more spaces in between the flakes? Dont suppose you fancy a chat about it if I pay for the call? This job is so important to me!
You might just want to spend a little extra time and money then and do some larger test panels to get your spraying/application technique down to get the desired look first.

The touch up type "spray cards" for doing panel repairs aren't big enough to give you a handle on the application so I use this approach when doing candy jobs.

This way I can use a 2x2 or larger piece of sheet metal to get the spraying/color depth correct (or I sometimes will go to my local bodyshop and scrounge for damaged panels in the scrap pile that can be used for paint testing...)

Lighting is also pretty critical in getting metalflakes/candies/pearls to the right depth and pattern - make sure you aren't painting in a dungeon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rambo_The_Dog said:
You might just want to spend a little extra time and money then and do some larger test panels to get your spraying/application technique down to get the desired look first.

The touch up type "spray cards" for doing panel repairs aren't big enough to give you a handle on the application so I use this approach when doing candy jobs.

This way I can use a 2x2 or larger piece of sheet metal to get the spraying/color depth correct (or I sometimes will go to my local bodyshop and scrounge for damaged panels in the scrap pile that can be used for paint testing...)

Lighting is also pretty critical in getting metalflakes/candies/pearls to the right depth and pattern - make sure you aren't painting in a dungeon!
Thanks for that, I do have an old van hood to test on.

Lighting is not a problem, I bought a brand new low bake oven Sept last year. I might have to sheet the walls over though, flake makes such a mess!
 
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