[Al]

I would like to build some door panels for a 37 Ford Tudor. I want to add a 6 1/2" speaker to it, but don't want it to be stuck inside the door. I was thinking of something like in the picture. Do you think I could use 2" rigid styrofoam and taper it down?? The door pull I was going to use 1/2" plywood on top of each other to make the pulls. In the end where it bends down. I want to put in the switch for the power windows.. Will the styrofoam work??, or do you think glass is better??

 

[DanTwoLakes]

You're going to need something stronger than rigid styrofoam to support a speaker. You'll probably have to glass it.

 

[Al]

How about if the screws used to hold the speakers on went into the door sheetmetal?? There are four screw holes there. It would be easy enough to either hold it tight to the door panel, or hold it to the door body. The foam would then be the filler to suround the speaker.. I could always try it.. I hate building those things out of glass..

 

[DanTwoLakes]

Give it a try and see what happens. I think what will happen is the foam will squeek like a banshee.

 

[79 Cheyenne]

I would like to build some door panels for a 37 Ford Tudor. I want to add a 6 1/2" speaker to it, but don't want it to be stuck inside the door. I was thinking of something like in the picture. Do you think I could use 2" rigid styrofoam and taper it down?? The door pull I was going to use 1/2" plywood on top of each other to make the pulls. In the end where it bends down. I want to put in the switch for the power windows.. Will the styrofoam work??, or do you think glass is better??

I would suggest glassing over a simple frame. Very simple and you can make it look fantastic without running into trouble when you install it. Check out some of the youtube video's. These kids are something nowadays!

 

[Al]

Thanks.. I'll check it out..

 

[kristkustoms]

I would highly recommend making them out of fiberglass. If you would kick or even bump the styrofoam, it will dent. Over time they will look like cellulite. Think of it this way, you will never regret the extra time to do it correctly, but you will regret it if you cut a few corners and the results are sub-par.

 

[Al]

Thanks.. I found a way on YouTube to form a cotton T-shirt over the form. The aply the resin over it and glass from the underside..

 

[DanTwoLakes]

I would highly recommend making them out of fiberglass. If you would kick or even bump the styrofoam, it will dent. Over time they will look like cellulite. Think of it this way, you will never regret the extra time to do it correctly, but you will regret it if you cut a few corners and the results are sub-par.

Shawn: I tried to pull up your gauge pod tutorial using fleece and resin and the pictures weren't there. Any way you could put them back in?

 

[Al]

Dan.. I did find one on YouTube that uses a cotton pulled over the MDF form. it is resined on top and let dry. Then glass was added underneath. When the pods are made.. Should I put some material under it to stop any squeaks??

 

[DanTwoLakes]

The only squeaks you'll get is if you have any styrofoam rubbing against bare metal, that's why I recommended fiberglass. The resin over fleece, or t-shirt method should work fine for you. Fleece will absorb more resin than a t-shirt and be thicker and stronger.

 

[Al]

Sorry Dan. I'll explain it better.. I am making the door panel out of 1/4" luan plywood. On top of that I was going to put the styrofoam. With styrofoam it is much easier to mold. It can be molded with a cheese grater into the shape you want. If you make a mistake.. You can just glue a piece back on and do it again. when done. screen like used in windows goes over it and bondo is aplied to the screen. The bondo makes it hard. Won't dent as easily. Then my black Ultrasuede would cover that. Then the speaker and grill. Only in my case the grill would be level with the top of the mold. I would also make arm rests to match the curve of the speaker pod. They would be made from ONE design. That placed on starting with 1/2" plywood and laminating layers to the top one of 1/4" plywood. Within the second layer of would there would be a channel for wires that would be going to the power window switch. I will be installing a switch in the tip of the armrest. Hate the looks of those things mounted on the door panels. The armrests would be roughed out on the bandsaw, and finished on a belt sander. Then sealed, and the ultrasuede covered over it. For door pulls I am going to get dresser drawer pulls, and invert them in the armrests. Then the whole works would be secured to the door panels.. Al

 

[DanTwoLakes]

That should work fine, but if I were you I would not use 1/4" plywood as a base. If you ever try 1/8" PVC foamboard (Sintra, Komatex, Celtec) you won't ever use plywood again. It forms easily with regular woodworking tools and moisture will never be a problem.

 

[Al]

Dan.. Do you have a picture of this board?? That isn't the PVC that you put up on the walls of a shower is it??

 

[Al]

Is it the foam board that you can get at a Arts Supply store??

 

[DanTwoLakes]

You can get this board at most sign shops. It is a lot stronger than the stuff at art supply stores, and is not the stuff that goes on bathroom walls. Here is a link : CLICK HERE It's also called closed cell PVC, expanded PVC, and foamed PVC.

 

[Al]

Dan. How do you attach material to it?? Can thing be glued to it??

 

[DanTwoLakes]

You can glue it, staple it, whatever you want to do. It glues up better than plywood. Here's a couple pictures.