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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Guys, the discouraged tone s not so much due to the experiment, its that I hurt from it physically and at the moment I can't even swing the water bill. Thats a red flag. I will just have to not pay my health insurance bill and let what happens happen. Obamacare crushed me.
 

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Slow but willing learner
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Would the shorter bend always be the place to start? I am aware of each thng you just mentioned and thanks. I did start with one bend, sounds like it was the wrong one per your example. Trouble I ran into was after I did that, I went to make the second and all that happened is the first bend curled up tighter and the panel became impervious to my efforts. Thought I was going nuts, the top four foot edge went flat and stayed that way despite hours trying to put a curve there, when putting a curve there was the first thing I did. Its been fun but the discussion is probably moot since tha was probably the last time anybody will get to try making a big flat panel. I gave it hell.
I suspect your biggest problem is the size of your panel and not having help. You can not hold all four corners up on a panel that size by yourself. The panel needs to be held with the origional crown correct and it needs to be maintained through out the process. If the corners droop the panel will take on the incorrect shape.

Matt, when you quit being challenged to learn new things and elevate your skill level it is going to be very hard to get up and go to work. Life in general needs to be challenging. Hopefully you will be able to use the wheel for some smaller more realistic pieces and find that rewarding as well as a means to learn the wheeling process.

You tried to start school by taking the final exam.......

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Using an assistant would have been too much to ask and there would have been no experiment had I suggested it. But that was how I envisioned making the big piece. We are assuming I'll be able to whip up the rest of the rust patches. Maybe with pieces of my buddy ol Lumpy from yesterday.

I am past all that and advised half skins. Lesson learned: Don't hit up the trail boss for a job unless you can already ride, rope, and shoot.

Been back on B pillars today so far. Got them both gutted, trimmed, and separated from rockers then cut pieces of 1-1/4" square tube for the lower halves, to provide area for the hidden hinge tubes to reside. Made a temp tab to hold pillar to right rocker and am now connecting floor crossmembers and pan to rockers. So that I will have something to go on for patch fab other than the patches we cut off.





Slick is over there finishing up Cat frame horns from the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
Heres what happens when I only take one pic of things... we get the leaning tower of A. Tilt your head a little and you'll see a kind of funhouse thing going on, like the car is melting. Note that crown has been restored to the rear window panel.:D

Oh, those boxes by the vise are suihide hinges and latches.:thumbup:



She is all whopperjawed because of that thar ratchet strap, not just my crooked pic hand. I have all the panels secured in original position now (think about that if you have marveled at the fairly elaborate support fixture, you just saw it apart) and am pulling the right roof side inward with the B pillars secured only at the rocker (again, think why the fixture). This is in order to bring that area in enough to let the front tip of the roof touch the A pillar without an overlapped cut as was present.





Forgot to take down the C clamp after screwing quarter to visor, oops. We are keeping the visor, BTW.

As you see, yep that rear window panel pooched way up on top because of all the stretching and flattening. That contour, at the rear flange for the original roof insert, does look as though it did have some crown but not much. I will relieve tension on the strap and cut the rear window panel just inside both of the end flanges, stopping at the flat zone as I cut downward. This will allow all the insert flanges to float, and with the body dimensions re-squared up I can then add a support structure extension to connect those flanges to the rest of the car. Then a metal roof insert can be laid in place over that and layers can be adjusted and made to meet for welding

When the door work is also done and its time to chop, the roof structure can be made adjustable or chopped along with the car, for more assurance of precision.

I just didn't feel like wheeling patches today, imagine that! This had to be done first anyway and you can see I stopped right in the thick of it. So I can think about model boobies on the way to work tomorrow instead of what to do when I get there. Just peek at forum then oh yea, now I remember what to do! That nightmare yesterday was yuck, wish I had known that was the day of the attempt. In retrospect, I never have thought of myself as a metal shaper or even person who forms metal... and that hasn't changed. Thankfully the overdid muscles loosened up overnight.

Dang if another potentially interesting and probably useless hare-brained scheme popped up. Humor me. I have had thoughts of rounding the rear corners of the doors a'la 33-4. It occurred to me that if, like found at the belt line above the trunk, a rounded corner were added at the outside bottom of the tail panel... A guy could add the rear body panel to the trunk lid, along with the rearmost section of the back window panel. Make the new trunk gap at the four rounded corners and my oh my what a cavernous trunk opening you have, Grandma! Oh boy that came out wrong. Anyway, yeah that. If a sturdy enough design could be concocted to hinge it down at the rear body brace area, one helluva bleacher type rumble seat could hang out there. If hinged at the top, Model A extended cab business coupe! See, I have these visions whether I want them or not.:drunk:

Now here, boys and girls, is something we can all get excited about... a Pontiac!:drool: The buzz is building around this car, within the shop. It is a dramatic shape for sure. I haven't looked back, been busy. I just say hell yeah, look where he points and take pics now. But it IS going to be wicked. Wet jet black as sin, watch and see.:cool:

 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
So many words...:rolleyes: and I forgot some:

Now you all can see why I took the whole body apart "just" to get the T strips out.;) Beats the ol hack n' hope approach.

Thank you folks for kindly stopping in.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Well, this one little cut about did it...



Seems fairly relaxed now, that right roof side and back window panel...





...and upright. I found centers of each marked part separately. Connected the green marks you see here with one long piece of tape and rifle sighted it so to speak, and it looks darn good. Level-checking everything is next and I know the rear brace is screwy but it should iron out. After that, if I X measure like a wild man and find nothing significant... I can start attaching and patching things. Parts order has my seal of approval now, so thats where we're at.

Before lunch I gave her a scrub and shot of metal treatment because of the high humidity.

 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
In preparation for patching and so I could get a valid pattern, I cleaned and straightened the left quarter ahead of the wheel this afternoon. Needed a sit-down task.:sweat:



 

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Slow but willing learner
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In preparation for patching and so I could get a valid pattern, I cleaned and straightened the left quarter ahead of the wheel this afternoon. Needed a sit-down task.:sweat:



Did you do any heat shrinking on the quarter? And if yes, what process did you use Matt?

John
 

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Collector of "someday" cars
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Remind me what the product is you use to clean the flash rust with. By this time next week, I may have a fair amount of bare metal real estate exposed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Got it.:cool: I can bear witness to it's value in the shop. Lightly fog with rattle can etch primer instead, for storage and handling.:)

This pic is from yesterday but I was ashamed so left it out of the post.



Yep thats a corner of ol' Lumpy from Nightmare Street. But bullheadedness has always pulled me through.







I did give that a little curve at the bottom, very slight. And yeah theres some wheel tracks and low spots but that corresponds to the adjacent areas. Shrinker fine tuning at bottom and front can happen once door skins are in but the rear is pretty close, pending fender fit and some work on the bend at the well there. I did find it fairly easy to make but did mess up the bend in the bead some. Regardless, I call this panel usable.

Now for the Pontiaction. They are going back to the original body mount locations at the tail.







 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Nice patch. Next time the bend is off, just "move" the bend with a dolly and hammer. Don't open it up and weld it.


Bends can always be moved over all the way down the panel. :thumbup: I like using the sharp end of a comma dolly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
Pugsy, I don't know where that will end up and the cut is inconsequential because I am flushing doors which means that front edge of the whole quarter gets cut away. Its merely a loose rendition.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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Right on....just throwing out the "how to move a bend" idear....
 

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That panel looks pretty damn cool to me...:cool:

I can understand the picklex in a shop too, it's just a little prohibitive for me. I can use my diluted phosphate to preserve too, I was just thinking the picklex would be cool for wiping the flash off just before W&G remover and then epoxy.

I just dumped a pile of cash in my Harley in the last couple weeks too, so the drain on resources is getting critical...:pain:
 

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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
Right on....just throwing out the "how to move a bend" idear....
I would not mind watching a demonstration.:cool: Flatten, put dolly edge at new bend and hit at correct angle to start a bend, right? I had worked it with the vise a bit until I realized about flushing. Mainly because it takes an act of Congress to get one sharp bend on our brake. I thought about asking what steps to make the patch in but John had refreshed my memory somewhat and I ended up being able to wing it.

That panel looks pretty damn cool to me...:cool:

I can understand the picklex in a shop too, it's just a little prohibitive for me. I can use my diluted phosphate to preserve too, I was just thinking the picklex would be cool for wiping the flash off just before W&G remover and then epoxy.

I just dumped a pile of cash in my Harley in the last couple weeks too, so the drain on resources is getting critical...:pain:
If you got a quart trigger spray bottle, I believe you would be sold. Main unique feature of the product is that it is benign under paint, according to the hype. To us, the smell is the first mind-blower. Then when you wet a towel with it and wipe rust away you go wow. Then begins the part of life when you can't imagine how you got along without it. The Cat floor freaks me out, it has stayed so clean. It really has changed things for us, epoxy now is a larger one-stroke task that includes all parts instead of several nagging hat changes to the paint side and gun cleanings plus cleanup that happen hurriedly at end of days. Only took probably ten trigger spray squirts, three shop paper towels, and four disposable gloves to re-protect the A body in five minutes. It does not completely stop sweat rust but seems to hold off surface rust from ambient humidity real well.
 

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Rod...from a Chrysler?
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I would not mind watching a demonstration.:cool: Flatten, put dolly edge at new bend and hit at correct angle to start a bend, right? I had worked it with the vise a bit until I realized about flushing. Mainly because it takes an act of Congress to get one sharp bend on our brake. I thought about asking what steps to make the patch in but John had refreshed my memory somewhat and I ended up being able to wing it.
No, don't flatten. Just hold the pointy end of the comma dolly about where you want the bend and kinda "swipe" blow with your slight crown body hammer. Just put the metal where you want it without flattening.


Just try it next time, and it'll come to you instantly seeing as you pound metal around already.
 
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